chaos said:

How have you got everything wired up Custard? I'm struggling to see if you can wire that kit in to what I'd consider a safe system.............

Have you got the ANL disi block set up as 1 4awg input going to 2 8 awg outputs? The way I see it, you either need different value ANL fuses (150A IMO, is on the high side for 4 awg), an extra fuse holder or an extra fused disi block - I find it confusing..........................

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i have the main wire fused and then into the splitter box.this then splits to the 2 amps.
i suppose the next time i have it open io should take pics but TBH i have tons to do on the cars at the mo

custard boy said:

i have the main wire fused and then into the splitter box.this then splits to the 2 amps.
i suppose the next time i have it open io should take pics but TBH i have tons to do on the cars at the mo

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So did you have to buy an extra fuseholder?

theres 2 in the kit plus i had one already fitted near the battery

This is my setup in the back of my Rover Coupe... Ok it's not a Fiat but you get the idea... Still have access to the spare wheel and plenty of space for the Mrs's shopping.

only thing i would say is its not the best way to mount the amps as the hot air is rolling over the cooling fins

custard boy said:

only thing i would say is its not the best way to mount the amps as the hot air is rolling over the cooling fins

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TBH I don't see that as much of a problem - there's more than enough airspace around the amps to prevent overheating. What I may be more worried about is where the amps are mounted - on the enclosure itself. If the enclosure isn't rigid enough (i.e. no bracing) then the enclosure may flex causing damage to the semiconductors within the amp. I ran an amp on the side of my enclosure with no problems, but that may have been something to do with the bracing I fitted, and the design of my enclosure

chaos said:

TBH I don't see that as much of a problem - there's more than enough airspace around the amps to prevent overheating. What I may be more worried about is where the amps are mounted - on the enclosure itself. If the enclosure isn't rigid enough (i.e. no bracing) then the enclosure may flex causing damage to the semiconductors within the amp. I ran an amp on the side of my enclosure with no problems, but that may have been something to do with the bracing I fitted, and the design of my enclosure

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i was thinking more with the space being useable.so theres a chance of there not being that space there.one of the reasons i did mine like i did was it meant i couldnt use the space were the amp is.
i know what im like it would end up with stuff in there all the time

Just seen this thread

I have a punto mk1, and the boot measurements are 42" wide x 24" deep, the fli 12 sub is 15" wide x 19" deep. the spare sits centrally and is roughly 20" wide. therefore unless your sub enclosure is less than 11" wide you're going to have to move it to get to the spare - unless you build an enclosure yourself from FG or get a stealthbox

cinqysxmk2 said:

Just seen this thread

I have a punto mk1, and the boot measurements are 42" wide x 24" deep, the fli 12 sub is 15" wide x 19" deep. the spare sits centrally and is roughly 20" wide. therefore unless your sub enclosure is less than 11" wide you're going to have to move it to get to the spare - unless you build an enclosure yourself from FG or get a stealthbox

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i knew i should have checked on here before going to measure the car yesterday! oh well, all done now. gonna sketchup a model of the boot later on, then when the sub arrives i can model that accurately too. thanks though, you confirmed that i can use a tape measure adequately

i'll post up a 'next stage' mockup later on today if i get the chance

Ozzie1989 said:

In relation to the idea for the connector I posted above, HERE is the solution for the Remote wire. Unfortunately they won't handle the power of the main cable, but is more than enough for the remote cable

Based on the connectors above, you could spend £25 on the connectors alone, so if you only need very occasional access it may be worth just using a terminal, however as I will be folding the seats down often I have seen this as the only way to properly do it... A good idea never seems to be cheap!

Let us know how you get on with your amp and that wiring kit too

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i'll keep you posted

bit worried about fitting the wires as the cars parked on the road, no garage, drive, or even garden at my flat! gonna try and ask a mate with a huge warehouse if he'd mind giving me a hand sometime over the bank holiday i'll do my best to take pics of the process then put up a thread or a guide or soemthing

as an aside, the 'remote' cable on my hu has a 3.5mm connector similar to a headphone socket on it. is this normal? should i just lop off the connector, and crimp it?

Cheers

It's all well and good saying I won't work any more on the plans until I receive the sub and measure it to the millimeter, but I just can't help myself!



Luckily, the spare is offset a bit to the right of the boot. This setup should allow me to get the spare out (with a bit of ingenious twisting and squeezing!) If not, a second 'fake floor' may be required, and since there's a few inches vertical space available it shouldn't pose much of a problem!

Plenty of space left for shopping, and the car pc could be mounted vertically on the far right wall

Just need to work out what i'm doing regarding the wires etc now. The entire enclosure should be removable by shifting the back seats forward. Might be a bit heavy though!!

Need to find some smart looking hinges for the spare tyre cover now...

How would i fix the whole thing to the boot? Just get under the car with a drill and slap in a few bolts? Sounds a bit scary! Maybe if it's cut perfectly to size it wouldn't need to be fixed in place? Opinions and guidance much appreciated!

i made my bottom floor a very tight itght fit so its held in tight then everything else is bolted to that.
only way to remove the lower floor is to tip the seats forward,lift up the edge nearest the seats and work it up that way to dislocate the front.
that way theres no chance of it coming forward in a crash.

well, i think this is what i want as the end result:


realistically, i'd like to get this done over the weekend:


the biggest job this week will be the wiring, not arsed about looks, so long as the sub doesn't get thrown around the boot when driving!

i'll try and fit the 'floor' a bit better than in the sketch. shame the mdf sheet i have lying around is 48"x24", i need 50"x27" to make a perfect fit i bet i'll have to get a HUGE sheet now, and i have no idea how i'll transport it to my mates warehouse

might try it with the sheet i have first. shaping it around the wheel arches should hopefully keep it in place! we'll soon find out...

finally, i need to have the sub to the left side of the boot, as the spare wheel is slightly offset to the right (will make access much easier). the boot light, as you may know, is located to the left of the boot.

i need to fit a replacement light, maybe just stuck to the right of the rear seats. how much hassle will this be? is there an option that would actually look good? not sure about the 'boy racer' blue neaon internal lights, though if done in a tasteful way (ie, light bar not visible) i might be tempted

could these strip lights be powered from the standard boot lamp supply? what's the difference between car interior neons and the cold cathode fluorescent lights computer modders use?

cheers

standard boot power will be enough.you could fit it behind the sub if oyu want it hidden.depends how much light you want.
could also use led's if you prefer.you could fit blocks under the builds floor to raise it off the boot floor to allow the wiring to go underneath plus it may be easier for removing the spare wheel.

that looks really good, i wish i could sketch like that!! i think the layout looks really good also, but do you not want the sub pointing towards you? as that way round its going to rattle the boot?

TurboCinqy said:

that looks really good, i wish i could sketch like that!! i think the layout looks really good also, but do you not want the sub pointing towards you? as that way round its going to rattle the boot?

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thanks

i've read a few threads arguing over the direction of the sub, and have come to the conclusion that it really doesn't matter one bit. most installs seem to have bootfacing cones, but if someone could prove that it's a bad thing, i can easily turn the sub around

cinqysxmk2 has two of these subs facing the bootlid of his mk1 punto and has no problems, so i think i'll probably be ok.

google sketchup if you're interested in quick and easy 3d modelling, it's a great tool and they offer a free trial

Well, my sub has arrived

I've made a template fake floor for the boot out of 1/4" mdf. It fits nicely, and spare wheel access is fine (if a little tricky!). I think 1/2" (or even 3/4") mdf might be a better option when i make the 'real' fake floor though; needs to be a bit weightier in my opinion.

Hopefully get all the wiring done tomorrow, along with the very basic floor. I'll build up on it later on i think, i just want to get it working for now! I have a couple of new ideas on the boot build having been messing around in there for real. I'll keep them to myself for the time being though

Now, how would you reccomend fixing the sub to the fake floor? The easiest option would probably be to screw from under the fake floor into the enclosure. There must be a more elegant solution though? Suggestions very much appreciated!!!

Hopefully I'll have pics up tomorrow, along with a short guide if i take enough work in progress photos

MrDT said:

Now, how would you reccomend fixing the sub to the fake floor? The easiest option would probably be to screw from under the fake floor into the enclosure. There must be a more elegant solution though? Suggestions very much appreciated!!!

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Yeah, you can just screw it together, or use brackets

i used 'L' brackets from homebase