Sound Deadening

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Sound Deadening

Most like to use MaxMatt pro, Dynamat Extreme or dampliyfer pro and will say anything less is just pointless. Depending on what sort of level that you want to go to i would say that a good 2mm deadening will do the job but a second layer to make 4mm would be better. in the most important places.
I use stuff from this guy http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/member.php?u=2629
2 sheets (2 square meters) of the 4mm stuff at £60 delivered, will easily do the doors of a Stilo, although i will be using three Some people are againt this but i think its much better than the commercial stuff. The only reason it is so cheap is because it is designed for industrial apllications and is not marketed in any way so therefore costs are kept down
 
is £60 for 2 square metres cheap?
What is the price for other brands and how much is usually needed for front doors and boot?
are these the usual areas to deaden or is there other places I should be looking at?
 
How much do you think it would cost to sound deaden the doors on a Grande Punto....mine rattle like sh*t when I crank it up!!

Also, one thing I don't get. When people sound deaden the outer skin of the door. How does the matting not absorb water? Surely this would lead to rust? - I'm sure there is some way around it, I wld just like to know before I start slapping Dynamat on :)
 
Well £60 isnt the cheapest for 2m but normally deadening is only 2mm thick, this stuff is 4mm thick. People who do it properly will use at least 2 layers of normal deadening. So if you take that into account then yes it is cheap :cool:
I would say that you should deaden under the rear seats and the rear quater panels.
It all depends on what level that you would like to deaden too. You are asking how long is a piece of string TBH.
 
How much do you think it would cost to sound deaden the doors on a Grande Punto....mine rattle like sh*t when I crank it up!!

Also, one thing I don't get. When people sound deaden the outer skin of the door. How does the matting not absorb water? Surely this would lead to rust? - I'm sure there is some way around it, I wld just like to know before I start slapping Dynamat on :)

Deadening is not matting material it is waterproof. You are thinking of things like Luxury liner which go's on the doorcard. Luxury liner is soundproofing not sound deadening.
Deadening stops resonance created from air movement of a speaker to create a better environment for it. Resonance in surroundings reduces a speakers ability to play the required Hz. I like to compare it to a port in a sub box. If you open up/lengthen a port you are changing the resonance of the speaker so the narrower/longer you go the easier the speaker finds it to play the lower frequencies. Open the port up and it will struggle to play the lower notes but hit the higher ones better.

So in the doors you are looking to hypothetically narrow the port by stopping the the air movement in its tracks allowing the mid range notes to be hit.

Sound proofing (using material) is stopping external sound (Engine, road, and rattling noises) In your application you are getting rattles from the door so you need to use a soft material in-between the 2 ratting parts so unless you are bothered about road noise i would just use cloth or foam etc.

I hope this helps
 
can't really do the roof cause of the skyroof being in the way...
But could I do the front doors and boot then sort the rear seats are a later time cause I won't be going in there and won't be using the rear speakers?
And am I wanting to sound deaden and sound proof or do these materials do both?
 
:doh: I just spent ages explaining the difference between the two materials. (albeit in my messed up dyslexic way lol)
You do the rear quarter panels because when you have a sub they flex a fair bit.
I can only reiterate it is only better to sound deaden, It is not a necessity but it will improve the sound no end.
You have the choice (always using a decent product) weather you just want to add 1 layer in the doors outer skin and line the boot. This will make a noticeable difference and will be enough for some, then if you go further than that it is up to you. I wouldnt go completely anal with the deadening because you are not using enough power to warrent it but it would be nice to see you add some in the rear quart's (eventually at your leisure) and then after the first layer (If you dont use the 4mm stuff) have a tap around the the doors listening for the resonant ping sounds and adding a bit more in those areas. And if you really fancy it do the inner skin of the door as this is quite bad yet very well sealed.
This would all be useless if you do not make the baffle for the speaker well enough as you will loose a lot of fidelity straight away.
 
cool cheers guys, think i kinda have the idea of what needs to be done!
obviously once it's all done, i let you know how it went and what the outcome is! :)

Thanks again
 
My Panda has loads in it, doors, roof, boot & bonnet. Got 5 sheets in each door I think, probably spent £600 on the stuff.... shame I'm going to have to do it all over again when I get a new car!

Use as much as you can afford, it's worth it.

:yeahthat: I'm up to about the half way point now. The difference is actually RIDICULOUS!
 
Yeah cheers for rubbing that in guys, im waiting for a nice sunny weekend and am gonna do the doors in one foul swoop with a crate of bevvies.
PS, what are you guys using to heat it up i need a space heater i think.
 
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:yeahthat: I'm up to about the half way point now. The difference is actually RIDICULOUS!

When I did stage 2 of my soundproofing (Dynamat Xtreme on back doors, roof, bonnet and another layer in front doors, plus Dynaliner in front doors and roof, then Hoodliner on bonnet) the improvement in midbass / low end was amazing, night and day difference. The Hoodliner reduced engine noise considerably too which is great when on the move.

Looks like I'm keeping the Panda now too, it's going to cost too much to change so sure I'll be putting more in at some point.
 
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