High to low level adapter.

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High to low level adapter.

Morty Mort

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Hello.

I thought my installation of my amplifier and sub was nearly finished, but I was wrong. My local car audio dealer sold me an adapter (mini ISO perhaps) that should connect to the back of my Blaupunkt/Visteon OEM radio / CD player and produce a low level signal.

Every cable is now where it should be, but it still does not produce a low level signal - the player confuses the plug with either a phone or some traffic update signals. So, this comfirms that everyone on the forum is correct - it is not possible to make straight line outs with the OEM player.

And I don't want an aftermaket one, as the facia adapter is extremely nasty. And even worse when aftermarket HU are installed.

So over to the question. There exists some adapters that converts a high level signal (speaker output from OEM head unit) to low level signal, which suits my Phoenix Gold amp in the boot.

I will try to use the signals that go to the rear speakers, but is it ok to hack into the existing wires without cutting the feed for the rear speakers? So the rear speakers still function, but in addition sending a signal to the high/low signal converter? Will something blow up or burn down then?

Regards, Morten. (Stilo 2002 1.6)
 
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well keeping the speakers and adding a sub isnt really advisable, ive seen it done hundreds of time but these each need power and the more your adding without taking away others will drain more from your head unit. this usually results in your stereo going into safe mode, just sort of hibernates to protect itself until the problem is sorted

in terms of low output theres things out there, tho to be truthful i know of none of hand, i will see if i can find anything in work as i remember ordering one in for someone a few months ago
 
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Thanks for the reply.

The amp is wired standard with power from the battery. I've done this kind of work on 5 cars now, several of them much more fancy than in the Stilo. The PG amp only handles low level input.

I know there are converters as I can purchase one here where I live. Example: http://www.bilradiospes.no/prod_detaljer.php?id=2187 This is a 2 channel speaker to line level signal converter.

I assume I can cut the wires going to my rear speakers, and add the converter/adapter to them, but then I'll lose the speakers in the back - still keeping the fronts ofcourse. But I'm afraid I'll either burn something up, or eventually split the rear speaker signal in half if I join everything together, so they'll deliver 50% gain in comparison to the fronts - which is a bad idea.

Morten.
 
Solution is getting closer. Stinger SLOCII is now bought and ready to install. All 4 standard speakers can be used, as the Stinger SLOCII only steals the signal from the speaker cable and transfers it to the PG amplifier.

:)
 
I will try to use the signals that go to the rear speakers, but is it ok to hack into the existing wires without cutting the feed for the rear speakers? So the rear speakers still function, but in addition sending a signal to the high/low signal converter? Will something blow up or burn down then?
no, you'd need to use the rear speaker wires for the amp, and then the amp to power the sub and rear speakers.
 
Not enough outputs on the amp. Either stereo 175 W 4 ohm (which will kill the recucled toilet paper standard speakers) or bridged mono 350 W 4 ohm. This is an old mosfet Phoenix Gold QX amplifier.
 
Solution is getting closer. Stinger SLOCII is now bought and ready to install. All 4 standard speakers can be used, as the Stinger SLOCII only steals the signal from the speaker cable and transfers it to the PG amplifier.

:)

Im not understanding this surely that is just a Highlevel to low level converter it doesnt appear to amplify the lost power being sent to the Amp.

I would suggest that you just convert all of the cars high level to low level inputs and install a second small amp to run the standard speakers. This would always be the best solution and considering the relatively large amount of bass that you will be getting will drown out the standard speakers surely.
 
well that would involve a complete change of the cars speakers which from the sounds of it he doesnt have in mind though it would sound well especially with such an amp powering the sub.
if it just converts it to low freq then its the amps job to amp this up to make it what your hear tho it will be lower than usual pre outs.
 
Success. :D:D:D

I'll explain the setup, and reasons for it.

Lack of money, kids, strollers, wife etc. are factors that had to be taken into consideration if I was going to keep both the family and the car at the same time.

So it must take minimum space and cost nothing, and not be difficult to use. Only costs now were the wiring and the signal converter.

That's why I want the OEM HU to power the door speakers, but still send a signal to the PG amp which is 10 years old, but still kicks many new amps' ass. "Signal thieves" was used to hack into the rear speaker cables, right behind the HU, and into the Stinger converter (grounded).

The PG amp is mounted vertically at the right rear wheelarch (wood in between to prevent amp chassis grounding). The little 10" sub and it's casing is placed on the floor between the driver's seat and the rear seat, where a reverse directed kid's chair is mounted. So a place with no function now houses a sub.

And it worked GREAT. No noise, distortion or problems at all. Green light at the amp, which is connected to the organge switched live from the ignition, so it shuts off with the engine, and not with the radio which communicates through the CAN.

Ofcourse everything chould have been made better. I've built several systems over the years, much more sophisticated than this. Should have an extra battery, capacitors for power surge, two amps, new door speakers powered from an dedicated amp and so on. But imagine the costs, the lack of boot space, time spent and the family priority. ;)

I'm happy with the solution, and the goal was to have this sorted within next weekend, as I'm driving to Oslo for a KISS konsert. Wohoooooooooo. That will be a "Rocket ride".
 
well that would involve a complete change of the cars speakers which from the sounds of it he doesnt have in mind though it would sound well especially with such an amp powering the sub.
if it just converts it to low freq then its the amps job to amp this up to make it what your hear tho it will be lower than usual pre outs.

It converts full signal range. All adjustments are done on the amplifier, as gain, bass, frequency, crossover, fullrange/sub etc.


Morten.
 
Hi I've just joined the fiat forum having bought a new bravo. And I'm going to fit my old amp and sub into it shortly. The amp has both speaker level inputs and also low level so I don't ned a converter.

I've got a Pioneer-S10 V 811000 Blue & Me and have hunted high and low for the head units details on the net regarding pre-outs on the rear connector but have had no luck.

The headunit does not have any pre-outs as far as I know, in my old car I split a single pre-out to supply two different amps for rear speaker and a sub without problem. This time it's pretty similar so am going to do the same process as Morten but have a few questions for him :


Did you just connect onto the rear speaker signal for your level converter and still have the rear speakers working by splitting the signal ?

"Signal thieves" is that the connectors to tap into a wire you mean ?

If the rear speaker signal is split between the speakers and an amp, as it's parallel wiring, did you notice a decrease in volume, thats if you still have the rears functioning ?


Would be excellent to hear back.

Cheers

dave
 
davv you should not have the rear speakers connected to the speaker wires if you are going to use them to send the amp's signal. it can damage the headunit's internal amp. instead you should have the rear speakers running from the amp.
 
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