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Power caps??

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Power caps??

blade2108

blade2108

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hi,

i am going to be running a 300w 2-channel amp with a set of matching 6x9s, as well as 2 600w 4-channel amps. One will be running 2 sets of 6x9s and the other a 12" sub and a set of components in my GP. It is all running of a Pioneer head unit. Does anyone know if I will need a power cap? If so what type would you reccomend?

Thanks :):):)
 
No they dont do anything!!!!!! your better off Upgrading the battery and alternator. Can i ask YTF are you using three sets of 6x9's before you waste your money on a system like that i would do some research and ask a few more questions because you will be very disapointed with what you are suggesting.
 
Avoid 6x9's like the plague, I suppose. Where on earth are you gonna stick them all? ;) are you replacing the stock speakers or leaving those in too?
 
blade2108 said:
hi,

i am going to be running a 300w 2-channel amp with a set of matching 6x9s, as well as 2 600w 4-channel amps. One will be running 2 sets of 6x9s and the other a 12" sub and a set of components in my GP. It is all running of a Pioneer head unit. Does anyone know if I will need a power cap? If so what type would you reccomend?

Thanks :):):)
Click to expand...

Also do you reackon that your alpine HU has 5 sets of preouts as that is how many you will need. They can probably be split using the outputs on the amps but you will be making a crap system even worse by splitting the level of the signal that the amp recieves, and also it will make set up a little harder as the Gains will all have to be different but thats not that much of an issue.
The first place that i would start is by saying that it can be pretty difficult to set up an amp with components and a sub running off of it if you dont have seperate level setting for both parts of the amp.
Now that you have introduced a sub into the system you will not need any 6x9's their sole purpose is a way of creating cheap bass for cars that dont have sub's so they will be completly useless.
My advice is
300w 2 channel= Rear components
600w 4 channel= bridged 2 subs
600w 4 channel= Bridged Front components

This is only a provisional guide it would be nice to know the exact spec of what you have and weather you have the stuff already then i can help you more.
 
blade2108 said:
i have rep the stock speakers already, front with comp an rear with full range speakers. Gonna buld an enclosure in the boot for me amps sub etc....
Click to expand...

Right then amp up the speakers that you have already then. full range speakers in the boot will be useless unless you are building a show car and you wont get any respect from having 6x9's in there at that kind of level you are talking about building enclosures in the door lining of the boot which is hard work but dooable.
 
volxstu said:
Also do you reackon that your alpine HU has 5 sets of preouts as that is how many you will need. They can probably be split using the outputs on the amps but you will be making a crap system even worse by splitting the level of the signal that the amp recieves, and also it will make set up a little harder as the Gains will all have to be different but thats not that much of an issue.
The first place that i would start is by saying that it can be pretty difficult to set up an amp with components and a sub running off of it if you dont have seperate level setting for both parts of the amp.
Now that you have introduced a sub into the system you will not need any 6x9's their sole purpose is a way of creating cheap bass for cars that dont have sub's so they will be completly useless.
My advice is
300w 2 channel= Rear components
600w 4 channel= bridged 2 subs
600w 4 channel= Bridged Front components

This is only a provisional guide it would be nice to know the exact spec of what you have and weather you have the stuff already then i can help you more.
Click to expand...

Technically he could use a line driver to boost & split one of those pre-outs into about four. You can pick them up on eBay for cheap if you're careful, too.

I wouldn't stick a million speakers in my car. I just replaced the stock ones and amped those up, and of course stuffed woofer goodness in the boot; its far beyond "loud enough". :cool:
 
power caps do work. they hold a charge from the battery and when the bass drops its takes the extra power from the cap to avoid damage to your electrics. i had two power caps and also a split charge battery system but then again running 4000watts
 
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Sei_rory said:
power caps do work. they hold a charge from the battery and when the bass drops its takes the extra power from the cap to avoid damage to your electrics. i had two power caps and also a split charge battery system but then again running 4000watts
Click to expand...

Yes but you have to capacitate 1 Farad to every 40w RMS to have any effect my system is roughly 2kw which is about average so i would need 50 Farad power cap and you will not get a 50 farad cap for under £400 also the Alternator could not distribute the power enough to make any difference. You are better off running a Relay to a second battery in a boot and upgrading the alternator.
 
blade2108 said:
decided to downsize a bit. gona run 2 subs, each off a mono amp an run my comps a 4 channel amp :D:D
Click to expand...

You are better of buying 1 good Mono amp and wiring the two subs together at 2 ohms or even 1 ohm if possible therefore you get more power and space for less money. What is your budget and i can give you a few pointers on what to buy.
 
oooo, power caps all over again :eek: lol

i ended up getting one, smallest petrol engine therefore smallest battery and alternator and i thot why not, if you can get one cheap theyre a nice addition to a sound system. they certainly assist the sound system, they point is that the assist in giving the additional power required for some notes though they arent a dedicated source, wer'd you get 1 farad for every 40 watt rms stu? i find them a bit overpriced new specially out of my work :rolleyes: lol. so for your money you can get better out there to beef up the sound more, sound proofing is a good place to start ;)
 
j0nny said:
wer'd you get 1 farad for every 40 watt rms stu?
Click to expand...

I used to be in contact with a couple of guys in America. I met them when i was very young doing my first install and these guys are absolutely brilliant at electrical and sound space mathematics. I understand that there are a number of very complex mathematical equations involved in Audio design but i havnt learnt it yet so i cannot say that it is gospal truth but you should see some of the installs that they have built, they showed me a civic and said that they couldnt turn it up very high because it sets off the alarm on a car a block away and my got it was actually like being hit in the face with a brick it was that good.
 
well i have to study how sound waves behave for my course in uni, and i learn the electrical side of things from my job. now 1 farad per 40 watts rms seems really small. a power cap isnt there to power the system, it simply gives assistance, for example, if you have say a 4 farad power cap, which is a fairly decent size, 8 gauge running to it, running say a 1000 watt max active sub and amp. the 8 gauge may be adequate for most of a song, but on certain notes the power required for the amp needs 4 gauge wiring to get the power from the battery adequatly, but if a power cap is close to the amp and is connected by only a foot of 4 gauge then the power cap will have delivered the power required for that note before the battery even knows there was a demand
 
j0nny said:
well i have to study how sound waves behave for my course in uni, and i learn the electrical side of things from my job. now 1 farad per 40 watts rms seems really small. a power cap isnt there to power the system, it simply gives assistance, for example, if you have say a 4 farad power cap, which is a fairly decent size, 8 gauge running to it, running say a 1000 watt max active sub and amp. the 8 gauge may be adequate for most of a song, but on certain notes the power required for the amp needs 4 gauge wiring to get the power from the battery adequatly, but if a power cap is close to the amp and is connected by only a foot of 4 gauge then the power cap will have delivered the power required for that note before the battery even knows there was a demand
Click to expand...

Right well what your saying is quite possibly true and taking into account that 1000w max is about 300RMS A 4 farad cap will give you 75w per farad so its not that far off what i said really. But you also have to take into account that a decent 4 farad cap will cost you in xcess of £200 and to upgrade an 8 gauge wiring kit to a 4 gauge will cost you what £20 i know what i would rather do.:eek:
Also everything to do with car audio depends on what amount you spend on it as their figures are often much overrated on cheap stuff so its no use spending £60 on a supposidly 60 farad power cap because the figures are nonsence.
 
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