i know what your saying but 6m length in cable is quite a bit for demand and supply to travel to hit an instant note, even in 4 gauge. 4 farad is a bit much, the technology has to improve for prices to become reasonable but up to 3 farad the prices arent too bad for an improvement on the sound system which can supply those peaks on power only when needed. a foot of 0 gauge wouldnt cost that much if paired with a capacitor and deliver near as much power for the savings in using 4 gauge to the cap instead of zero gauge
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Power caps??
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You need to go off what sort of current your amp/s can potentially pull and base the cable gauge from that. If you need a cap to compensate for that lack of cable size then really all youare doing is addressing the symptom and not the cause.
I reckon that a run of 0awg and no cap would cost as much, if not cheaper, than using a short run of 0awg, a cap and a run of 4awg to the battery.
I reckon that a run of 0awg and no cap would cost as much, if not cheaper, than using a short run of 0awg, a cap and a run of 4awg to the battery.
I completely agree my o gauge wiring kit cost me £90 which is slightly over the odds and that came with all the battery terminal, earth terminal, distribution blocks, rem wire and connectors which is about the price of a good 2 farad cap. Only thing that i had to buy was the Preout Leads which are as cheap as chips. Now im putting a battery in the boot so i wont even need the main stretch of Power cable which is a bit of a bummer but oh well.
try obeying the laws of acoustics to see how much better it sounds, the difference is amazing.
1 headunit
1 pair of componets (seperate mids, tweeters and passive crossovers)
1 amp for the components (2 channels @ 4 ohms)
1 sub in box
1 amp for sub (1 channel at 2ohms)
it wouldnt be too wrong of you to fit a matching set of components to the rear and use a 4 channel amp for all the comps. you can also go for 2 subs and use a 2 channel @ 2 ohm amp. if you're feeling special go for 1 ohm stable amp and a suitable matching sub.
remember the only wattage that means anything is RMS
whatever you do, only buy good quality gear. its far far far better to spend £100 on a decent set of components (e.g. alpine SPR-13S) than £150 on 3 sets of halfords 6x9s.
:yeahthat:
if i was u id go to a really good car audio shop no halfords r places what sell everythin for cars go to a full on car audio shop and ask about setups they recomend. Also like u im into my sound systems im runin 2 12inch awe12ps at 1ohm and 1 a18001dt amp also got a fusion set of 6.5 nv series and a fusion amp to match all bein run off a jvc avx11 head unit and also got a 5farad power cap and u can trust me u dont need 6x9s if u got a gud sub and speakers. if you look my my audiobahn equipment u will c its top end gear no cheap rubbish an i get looks everywere i go if i crank it up more than 5 on the head unit
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I decided to try and stick with one manufacturer, alpine, even tho i like the sound of JBL speakers and had a brilliant MTX amp, i went for an alpine media head unit then from there went for a 4 channel V12 amp for X series componants and a Monoblock V12 amp for sub, all in all sounds ok.
But the only think not alpine was the power cap, lol
i went for jbl sub x 2
jbl amp x 2
again... the power cap wasn't jbl
jbl amp x 2
again... the power cap wasn't jbl
i went for jbl sub x 2
jbl amp x 2
again... the power cap wasn't jbl
Do you notice a common thing here Good companies dont make power cap's cos there s**t.
Says me with one but they do make it easier to see battery voltage whilst working on.
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