Got some Infinity Ref comps to fit in the front doors. The factory wiring has a seperate feed to the woofer (lol) and tweeter, do I wire the woofer feed to the crossover and ignore the tweeter feed?

new one on me depends how it works if theres no high sound going threw the woofer which i gess there not as there sperate so your standerd head unit much have a cross over already built in so id say your best wirering them in seprate, but dont hold me on it

may be some1 els could shead some more light

Hope this helps Tom

Update. The factory tweeter has a capacitor built in - I dont know enough about these things to know why so I decided against wiring the new tweeter to the existing ones feed wire. Instead I took the main speaker feed to the crossover then to the new comps. The tweeter is getting the highs, possible too much so will try the -3db on the c/over. Not sure about the woofer though, seems a bit muffled. I think there is two other ways I could wire them up - firstly use both the existing feeds together to the input on c/over and secondly connect the woofer direct to the main feed and route the tweeter feed through the c/over. These may be no-no's so advice please. Will go and start on other door now I've thawed out! BTW the head unit is the std Blaupunkt CD with Blue.

firstly i think you mean a resistor on the tweeters

wireing both feeds may be the answer its should't drop the resistance that way even if the head unit hat the cross over built in both mid and triable would be going to the cross over and then the cross over would sort it out.

Hope This Helps Tom

Thanks for input Donut Boi. It is definitely a cap - it says on one of them 4.7mfd which even with my limited electronics knowledge I think means it is a cap. Anyway I've left the wiring using the main feed to crossover. Now I've finished and played about with the bass & treble settings - wow!! What a difference.
Next the rears?

Thanks again.

nice to know you got it sorted m8

your right it is a capacitor..

Its intended to protect the Tweeter from "spikes" caused by the amp starting up for example by adsorbing excess voltage..

C = 1/2 (Pi) fZ

C is the "safety" capacitor value in Farads (1 Farad = 1,000,000 mfd).

f = one-half the tweeter crossover frequency

Z = tweeter impedance at the crossover point

Thanks for confirming that I was right on that - now have to understand the rest of your info!
Protect the tweeter - why? they're rubbish anyway (from China).

the tweeter is run off a cross over, Compared to a standard speaker it moves a tiny amount but rapidly to give you the High notes, When most Amps start up there is an initial surge of power that is normally heard as a POP though the speakers, this POP is a surge of power making the speaker move, normal speakers have the tolerances and range of movement to adsorb the surge but the Tweeters cant, the Pulse of power can make the tweeter element (aka Cone) detach and "blow" or repeated surges can fatigue the element effectively killing its sensitivity and sound quality..

You shouldn't have to worry about the formula as the component is usually supplied with its own cross over however its handy to know if your making a system out of various bits from different manufacturer's

hope that helps (a bit)

Thanks for that Andy Monty. You learn something new every day! It's having people like you on the forum that helps the rest of us get the help and advice we need - talking of which, and granted off thread, you posted the hack for the aux input I think. Going to give it a try but when I press the src button my Blaupunkt HU I only get CD (when one in) and tuner. So how do I get AUX?

may b a thanks in order for andy? i sent mine

Done - a bit new to this forum thing!

thanks for the thanks chaps

knellerhall

To get to the AUX mode you need to press the cd button twice or scroll through the menu via the SRC button on your steering whee it goes something like FM AM CD AUX then back to FM

Will put some more info up later im going out for a bit..

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You will want screened cable as the AUX input picks up the noise of the coil pack/ Alternator, keep it as short as you can as there is quiet a drop in sound level with a long run of cable. Im thinking of putting a small modular pre-amp in line between the 3.5mm jack and the AUX input but thats an idea for the summer me thinks (2 of these http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ITAG=SPEC&ModuleNo=37746&doy=20m2#spec )

Tried the src button but no AUX, however reading my manual (theres a first!) my HU is CDC compatible and it says it will only show 'changer' when one is fitted. No mention of AUX. So I guess the unit 'senses' when a load is detected? Do you think it will still work with an MP3 connected to the pins? Just to fill you in I also have bluetooth in the HU as well.

I dont know to be honest mines the basic Active Head unit

Andy - you obviously have a lot more knowledge than me about electronics & the like so what do you think of this? I have been digging around and came across this -
http://homepage.eircom.net/~digitalreilly/bravo/AD182_aux_input.html
Although its for a Grundig maybe the Blaus the same.
Might have a go.

looks like a great idea cant see why it wont work the HU's have pin diagrams on the back to double check I assume the 100K resistor is to fool teh HU that a Multichanger is fitted allowing the AUX to appear..