I want to put a couple of 8" or 10" subs into my MDF parcel shelf (for mid range bass). With the sub box in the boot i would not be able to enlose them so does anybody know if this would create the desired sound with no inclosed air to move.

Trying to do free air/infinite baffle is very hard to do in a hatchback using the parcel shelf - the parcel shelf and the boot area would need to be as well sealed as possible.

Midbass needs to be up front. Just a really good 6.5" driver in there or 8" if you get a door build done.

I didny really mean mid bass sorry my bad. Because i am running two 15's in the boot, i wanted to use a smaller sub to qicken the bass response. As i listen to a lot of dance music. I know everybody says that the larger subs would councill out the smaller but it would make sense that the smaller subs would react first to the signal due to their size. This would give a much quicker response to the bass.

volxstu said:

I didny really mean mid bass sorry my bad. Because i am running two 15's in the boot, i wanted to use a smaller sub to qicken the bass response. As i listen to a lot of dance music. I know everybody says that the larger subs would councill out the smaller but it would make sense that the smaller subs would react first to the signal due to their size. This would give a much quicker response to the bass.

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You can make a 15" sound as 'quick' as a 8/10". It's all to do with the box design. The only real difference is that larger subs are more efficient in terms of being able to shift more air, which can help in SPL applications.

I want the 15's for SPL thats why i wanted smaller subs for a quicker response.

volxstu said:

I want the 15's for SPL thats why i wanted smaller subs for a quicker response.

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Right - do you mean SPL as in streetbass (so the subs have some musicality) or being as loud as possible at a given frequency (SPL)?

Like I said, small subs are not any 'quicker' than large subs.

I mean as much bass as possible with the given box size. I have tried my best to make the box as large as possible i will try and get a picture up soon. The boxes size was determined by the extremely large magnets on the subs. if i had used any other angle for the front face then they wouldnt have fit. I had to stop the box a certain distance from the rear of the boot to allow room for two amps and a power cap. I have also made a 2.5" high false floor for the other two amps to sit under.

volxstu said:

I mean as much bass as possible with the given box size. I have tried my best to make the box as large as possible i will try and get a picture up soon. The boxes size was determined by the extremely large magnets on the subs. if i had used any other angle for the front face then they wouldnt have fit. I had to stop the box a certain distance from the rear of the boot to allow room for two amps and a power cap. I have also made a 2.5" high false floor for the other two amps to sit under.

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The power cap is an unnecessary power drain.

Now hear is the other dodgy thing i have no room to port the face of the box so i have two options.
1. Port through the bottom of the box and thrue the false floor into the spare wheel area which should give some air movement to the 2 amps which will be situated there.
2. Port at the small vertical area that i have at the front of the box but this only has a gap of about 200mm before you reach the boot wall and also the 2 sub driving will obstruct this area.

Sorry my technical definitions arent brilliant im in no way a pro all i know is what i have learnt by doing things myself so i generally have my own words for things that prob have universal names.

Here are a couple of pics, there not great quality but they show the build.

Just stick with your 15s. What size is that box? Looks a bit small for a ported enclosure housing 2 x 15s.

suprised chaos has dont already totally verbally assaulted even the slight mention of speakers in the parcel shelf if subs are present ...

dr_hillmann said:

suprised chaos has dont already totally verbally assaulted even the slight mention of speakers in the parcel shelf if subs are present ...

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No, this is something slightly different - we talking the higher sub bass frequencies (still less than the 100Hz or thereabouts region).

I agree with Paul though - looking at those boxes they'd be a bit small to port.

chaos said:

I agree with Paul though - looking at those boxes they'd be a bit small to port.

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Am I missing something with smaller boxes and porting because i was thinking that if i created a good seal in the false floor underneath the box this would increase the area of air movement. Follows is my refined idea.
1. work out air space within box
2. port through the bottom
3. seal the false floor to match the short fall of air movement needed
For example if the box has 4.5ft air space each sub then i need 6ft each so allow 3ft within false floor

I am currently trying to up my game when it comes to ICE so any suggestions, changes, criticism's would be much appreciated

How large is the box per sub?

What I think you're suggesting won't work that well.

Not actually sure what size the box's are atm and i think that i have lost the original drawings that we made but im sure i can find the exact measurements sumwhere. I know that my plan isnt ideal but that is the absolute biggest that i can have that box. If i raised the Vert at the front of the box then that would change the angle that the subs sit so they wont fit and i need the space at the front for the sub amps. The only other option would be to have the amps under the false floor which i wont do because it will be hard to maintain and then there isnt enough room for heat disipation.