Stilo audio upgrade

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Stilo audio upgrade

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Jan 6, 2007
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guys, i want to upgrade the audio in my stilo, and i have been looking at a few different speakers lately, and this is what i have settled on:

Polk MOMO MMC6500 6.5" components (front)
Polk MOMO MMC650 6.5" co-axial (rear)

OR

Polk Audio DB6501 6.5" components (front)
Polk Audio DB651 6.5" co-axial (rear)

either option would be powered by a JL Audio Slash 300/4 amplifier (75W RMS x 4)

then a Polk sub would be a future step (also powered by a JL monoblock to keep the theme going).

what do you think? have any of you guys had any experience with polk? theyre quite hard to get hold of here, so theyre coming from the states.

OH, and all this would be driven by the trusty ol' connect+ nav (y)
 
i'd prefer MMC6500's front and rear :slayer:


i've got no direct experience with polk, but i've heard only good things about them.
 
OUCH, sorry to hear that.

but if they stole the car AND the speakers, then surely the speakers were fab, or else they would have thrown them out the window :p
 
jug, so based on what you have heard, you think i sohould go for the MOMO varients, and not the Polk Audio DB series ones?
 
i know that bozzy, but its all part of a larger plot (y)

if you have read my threads, i plan on connecting a computer to the connect+. that will handle all the multimedia side of things, and it will have a 24-bit Creative X-Fi sound card, which is probably better that what any sub £300ish headunit can do.

so step by step, im on minimum wage :p

the only reason im going for the speakers first is that i have butchered the rear passenger side one, and the front passenger side looks like its going too :rolleyes:

speakers, sub, amps, computer, deadening,.......its all in the works. plus i got the rest of the things going on with the car too. respray, skirts, spoiler, alloys, suspension, and probably some engine work too.

god, this thing is'nt costing me much is it :bang:

love it tho (y)
 
polk are brilliant. we have a display stand in work and it goes louder than the other two (JBL and RF) and still sounds clear as anything!

if you want stock in the UK motorworld have dealings with them! :)
 
ok, since this thread is a bit quiet, i thought id stick in some pics. i know that always gets you lot excited (y)

the Polk MOMO MMC6500 comps:

polkmmc6500.jpg


Polk MOMO MMC650 co-axial:

polkmmc650.jpg


JL Audio 300/4 Slash Series:

jl300-4.jpg



and to keep bozzy happy i got myself a little toy till i get the whole connect+ carputer thing sorted ;) :

SA400053-1.jpg


now because i had the connect nav in there before, im assuming i need a normal stereo cage from fiat as the facia isnt held onto anything?
 
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im looking to do something a bit like this:

DSCN3128.JPG


what i want to do is have a sub in the spare wheel well and mount the 2 amps either side in a false floor.

any help on how to achieve this is welcome :)
 
Now then.

First off, forget the rear speakers.

Next, forget the 300/4 unless you're going to use it to run your front end active and run another for sub duties.

I'd be looking at the 450/4 to run the whole system

For a wheel well enclosure all you need is some fibreglass resin and hardner, then something called chopped strand mat.

Have a look here www.cfsnet.co.uk as they're about as cheap as you'll get. You need a lot, so budget £80 for materials.
 
ummm well my thread has been up for 3 weeks and i have had no advice. so i have already got the components, co-axials, and the 300/4.
i know the 300/4 is underpowered for the speakers, but im not looking to fully power them.
the sub and its amp i havent got yet. they will be a polk sr 12" dual voice with 700w rms, and a jl audio 500/1, again its not going to be fully powered, but i think it will be enough.

any step by step guides or someones install log out there paul that i could see?
 
I would forget about the Connect Nav+ Computer idea, both the fact that the system is so integrated I can't see how you can separate out the audio (checksum errors will occur, and it'll create issues with the Nav and Tel modules), and powering all that from the CN+ may do more harm than good - it's not what it was designed to do!!

Your best bet, if you are serious, would be to use the front panel of the CN+ and create a new system for it.

Sorry to be negative, but I can see this being a lot of money and time and having an adverse effect (i.e. end up with no Connect!).
 
rich, in my other thread (stilo carputer) iv found a good mounting place for the carputer screen, so now im going to have it all separate, and stick my connect (non colour) back in.

so the audio side of things will be running from the computer and/or a separate head unit plus the amps
 
ummm well my thread has been up for 3 weeks and i have had no advice. so i have already got the components, co-axials, and the 300/4.
i know the 300/4 is underpowered for the speakers, but im not looking to fully power them.
the sub and its amp i havent got yet. they will be a polk sr 12" dual voice with 700w rms, and a jl audio 500/1, again its not going to be fully powered, but i think it will be enough.

any step by step guides or someones install log out there paul that i could see?


Sorry Oz, didn't realise you'd already got them :eek:

What you have (and indeed intend to buy) will be plenty powerful, trust me. However, I would really look at using the 300/4 to run the fronts active and if you're dead set on rear speakers, run them from your headunit. The shop you bought the rears from might take them back if you buy the sub and amp from them too (said "them" a lot there).

As for the guide, take a look here:

http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/projects-speaker.html

It's dead easy, I did one for my car once before a change of plans meant I never used it. Another change of plans means I'll probably be making one again soon!
 
thats ok paul.
i was thinking of the active front option. in my opinion rear speakers are just as important as fronts. with the way i sit, the rear speakers are soo close to me and i know they make a whole load of difference to the soundstage.

the thing with the sub spare wheel install is that i dont want a mounting option thats going to rob me of too much boot space. however im not buying the sub and its amp anytime soon as theyre £400, but i do want to get everything set up and ready for when they come. so i need to get the boot build ready and mount the 300/4.

so the boot will be like: amp - sub (spare wheel) - amp
all in a false floor.

so whats the advantage of running the front active as opposed to the whole lot running off the 300/4, other than the increased power going to the fronts?

at the end of the day its sound quality im after and not absolute power :)
 
The shop you bought the rears from might take them back if you buy the sub and amp from them too (said "them" a lot there).

As for the guide, take a look here:

http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/projects-speaker.html

It's dead easy, I did one for my car once before a change of plans meant I never used it. Another change of plans means I'll probably be making one again soon!


they came from the states. 2 weeks to ship over, and a £28 customs charge, so no chance of alterations.

thanks for your help paul (y) well appreciated since noone seems to bother :cry:
 
so whats the advantage of running the front active as opposed to the whole lot running off the 300/4, other than the increased power going to the fronts?

at the end of the day its sound quality im after and not absolute power :)

The idea of going active is for sound quality:

Each channel drives a dedicated frequency driver, not shared like passive.
Greater flexibilty with choice of crossover frequencies and levels.
More efficient amplifier, giving less harmonics and distortion.


Rear speakers will adversely effect the soundstage though, I can guarantee you'll prefer the sound of a well setup front end and sub than with one including rears.
 
does running the front active mean ditching the crossovers that came with the speakers?

i really do like rear fill, but maybe i'll think differently as you say when its all fitted. plus it will be a few months before i get the sub side of things.

will it be worth it to rewire the system with some OFC cables?

the thing is i have and will spend more than i can afford on the speakers and amp, so i'll try to do the fabrication and install myself.

i also want to sound deaden the doors, rear panels, and the boot.

so all in all, im after advice on what to do for the audio, how to install it, what to use installing it, and effective and quality sound deadening.

thanks
 
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