Punto (Mk2/2b) Punto JTD engine removal and refitting

Try not to break too many of the permanent hose clips as you cant re-use them. Save you on buying loads of jubilee clips etc. Only remove hoses at one end if possible.

NOTE - If you have air con identify the pump at the front left of the engine. There are 4 x 13mm bolts holding it onto an allow frame. Firstly crack the nut with an open ended spanner at the top left of the pump. (the bolt which is against the gas nozzle) Then completely remove the other 3 bolts.
Now go back the the bolt you cracked firstly and turn it a bit at a time. The pump will slowly draw out as you go leaving the bolt trapped on the pump. Dont worry, the hoses, like brake hoses, are strong and the pump is relatively light.

1. loosen expansion tank lid.

2. place bucket under right hand side of radiator.

3. loosen and pull radiator top hose at the point where it joins the engine on right hand side leaving it attached at the rad.

4. loosen the radiator bottom hose at the bottom near the turbo. Remove slowly and prepare for spillage.
5. turn the bleed screw on the heater matrix double hose a couple of turns to ensure full drainage (situated under the diesel filter)

6. Slacken front road wheels

7. Now jack up the front of the car one side at a time. A trolley jack is best and get it as high as you can. Use axle stands on a decent height positioned under the large bolts which hold the subframe at their rearmost point (near the anti roll bar floor mounts).


ENSURE YOUR AXLE STANDS ARE IN PERFERCT CONDITION (NO CORROSION / RUST, INSPECT THE WELDS ETC) AS YOU WILL BE WORKING UNDER THE CAR.

8. remove both front road wheels (you will need these in a moment)

9. remove the arch liners by removing all the cross head screws. If any of these are rusted use a fine punch and a hammer to clean the heads out. It sometimes helps to tighten them slightly more to crack them. You may then find a couple of flat head screws holding the bottom of the liner onto the engine undercover. If the arch liners prove difficult to free it helps by grabbing them at the bottom centre and closing them like curtains. This helps free them from the wing and they should fall out.

10. Now remove the front bumper by firstly, from under the vehicle, removing the torx bolts along the width of the bumper.

11. Now remove the 4 x 10mm bolts securing the bumper to the front of the wings (2 on each side) You will see these by looking up into the sides of the bumper. On each side, one is at the bumper top point and the other is near the headlight.

12. Finally, remove the 2 x torx bolts at the top front of the bumper either side of the bonnet catch. The bumper should now draw forward and off.

13. Remove the two dark grey foams at either side of the front of the cross member to keep them safe as they are only pushed in.

14. Remove the top of the air filter housing at the front right of the engine bay by loosening the 3 x cross head screws ( the screws stay with the top and dont fully withdraw)

15. Follow the hose from the top of the lid you have just removed and Loosen or break the clip at the bottom of the MAF sensor. Lift the lid, hose and MAF sensor as one unit clear from the car. It is important you put cling film / rubber glove or similar over the end of the MAF sensor as it is sensitive to dirt. Without the MAF working you will have no turbo until full operating temperature is reached so store out of the way carefully.

16. Now remove the air filter housing by removing the 2 x 10mm bolts at the back of the housing. There unit is push fitted onto the small air trunk at the front so just pull it free.

17. Remove the large hose leading from the intercooler at the throttle body end leaving the other end attached to the intercooler.

18. Remove the other short hose leading from the intercooler at the turbo end. Both the intercooler and radiator should now be free.

NOTE – if you have air conditioning remove the 10mm bolt holding the air con cannister to the offside inner wheel arch and let it hang down.

19. remove the under engine splash shield. The front is normally released when the front bumper torx bolts are removed and the flat head screws are removed from the bottom of the arch liners. 2 x 13mm bolts secure the rear corners onto the subframe.

20. place the two road wheels one on top of the other and slide under the lower cross member where the radiator and intercooler sits.

21. remove the 10mm bolt holding the top of the intercooler onto the upper cross member.

22. Slacken 1 x 15mm bolts at the end of the lower cross member.

23. remove the bolt on the other side and let the lower cross member sit angled on top of the front road wheels.

24. remove the first bolt you slackened and allow the full cross member to drop onto the tyres.

25. work the intercooler and radiator off the cross member by levering at the bottom to release the rubber push fittings.

26. If your car has aircon, imagine there is a pivot or hinge on the left hand side of the radiator. Drop the radiator down and pivot it clock wise round 180 degrees so that the air con rad (which is anchored to the coolant rad) does not strain its piping. The rads can now sit face down with the fan(s) face up on the piled up road wheels to the outside of the offside wheel arch.

If your car is standard the radiator can be completely withdrawn from the vehicle and moved out the way.

27. Remove the small top hose leading from the expansion tank from the small copper pipe at the top left of the engine.

28. Remove the hose leading from the bottom of the expansion tank where it connects the pipe which crosses the top of the exhaust manifold.

29. Remove the expansion tank by removing the 10mm bolts front and back ensuring you note the route of the overflow pipe exiting the tank lid.

30. Remove the 2 heater matrix hoses leading from the bulkhead from the right hand side of the engine and cable tie them onto the brake lines or other suitable anchor point on the bulkhead.