this is more awkward than technical.
place a trolley jack under engine sump pan,
using a plate of solid wood as a load spreader
take the weight of the engine, you do NOT need to jack up the car..it can remain on it's wheels.
however for access / better pics I've removed the RHS front wheel, this may be the better option.
place a trolley jack under engine sump pan,
using a plate of solid wood as a load spreader
take the weight of the engine, you do NOT need to jack up the car..it can remain on it's wheels.
however for access / better pics I've removed the RHS front wheel, this may be the better option.
Engine mount
access to the bolts is restricted, I used a combination spanner to remove the torque, then a flexible handle ratchet to undo the bolts,
the ones on the inner wing are a little easier
timing belt
the 13mm hex nut holds the cambelt tensioner bearing onto the block,
note the direction of belt mounting.
ideally crank the engine until all the belt timing marks and pulley marks align,
then it's safe to remove the belt,
if timed correctly there should be no THROW of the camshaft, so the pulley will stay still while the belt is changed.
I use the pliers to pre-load the belt tensioning pulley
bottom pulley
note the tiny pin-hole on the bottom crankshaft / alternator pulley,
I find just undoing the 3 x M8 ( 13mm /Hex) bolts is enough to lose the fan belts tension.., getting this little hole aligned with the "pip" on the crank pulley is crucial for ignition timing, as there is a pulse point on the outer pulley.. for the crank angle sensor.
