Technical Drivers Window Stuck OPen

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Technical Drivers Window Stuck OPen

WillGP77

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HI All, First post on here. I have been a long-term lurker after buying my GP about 4 years ago (06 Plate Eleganza). Many forum members have helped me over all the little issues these cars have!
Anyway, I have now come up against a problem I haven't seen elsewhere, so I thought I'd register and ask the question.
It started with the drivers side window fuse blowing, replace the fuse, all is well. This happened a few times, until it started blowing the fuse as soon as the ignition was turned on. I have also repaired almost all the wires in the door loom previously, and re-doing some of these cured the constant blowing. This worked for a few days, then happened again, but the window was stuck down.
I have checked the door wiring, and all seems fine there, all other functions are working. I have had the fuse box out, and I cannot see any signs of water ingress. After removing and refitting the fuse box, the fuse is no longer blowing, but the window still doesn't work, the button is not lit up on the door, clearly there is something wrong with this particular circuit.
Checking for errors with MES, shows nothing other than the usual stuff (radio missing, for example, as I have aftermarket head unit).
I'm thinking body computer, but it's not showing any issues, and appears to be a pain to get at!
Any suggestions for things to check would be very useful. Car is working really well otherwise, I'd hate to scrap it for a small electrical fault.

Thanks in advance
Will
 
Have you rechecked the wiring, especially the connector just in front of the door? The terminals in there can corrode

also have you removed the switch from the door panel and tried touching the relevant wires together just in case the switch has gone bad
 
Hi, do you mean the body side of the door connector? I haven't looked at this specifically, concentrating on the door side as this seems to be where issues usually are, all the wires in the loom have broken at one time or another, all repaired now.
I'll check the other side of the connector.
I haven't tried manually moving the switch either. Got the BCM out at the moment. MES is showing a b-can error in this module. All looks fine connection wise, given them all a clean anyway...
 
Update - I have checked the wiring on the door loom connector, all looks good, no corrosion. I have also tries to manually work the switch, nothing. Passenger side still works.
The little orange LED in the switch panel is not lit for the drivers side window, it is lit for the passenger side. Seems there is no current in this circuit.
Started to rain now, so I think that's it for today, if I ever find a solution I'll update this thread. Any other ideas gratefully received.
Thanks
 
Another update. After further testing, there is no voltage on any of the drivers side window circuit, either the switch side, or the motor driver. Passenger side works well still, so the current plan is to re-wire it so the passenger side switch circuit sends power to the drivers side window motor. It may blow this circuit as well, but that doesn't lose me much at this point!
I am struggling to find the correct wires to swap in the switch, so if anyone has a diagram or simply a description of the wires and their colour, that would be useful!
 
Another update. After further testing, there is no voltage on any of the drivers side window circuit, either the switch side, or the motor driver. Passenger side works well still, so the current plan is to re-wire it so the passenger side switch circuit sends power to the drivers side window motor. It may blow this circuit as well, but that doesn't lose me much at this point!
I am struggling to find the correct wires to swap in the switch, so if anyone has a diagram or simply a description of the wires and their colour, that would be useful!

I'm no expert but have a few thoughts.. Firstly, to clarify, when you say passenger side is working do you mean the switch on the drivers side that controls the passenger window? If so then the controls are getting power so issue must be with driver's window switch or driver side motor. If not, are you getting power at the connection between the body and door, and at the connection between body and switch? Couple of other things - maybe worth checking the earth connection too, and is the fuse the correct amp rating, and did you thoroughly dry out the fuse box when it was out even if it didn't look damp?
 
Yes, passenger side switch on the drivers door works for the passenger window.
No doubt there is damage on the wiring loom in the drivers door, but all the connections are good with no shorts as far as I can find. (I'm decent with a multimeter but no expert either! And I have repaired wires in this loom several times.) Fuse box was left out upside down for several hours in a dry room on a radiator. No sign of moisture at all. Fuse is definitely the right rating (20A).
I have now attempted to apply 12V from a different battery direct to the drivers window motor (regulator?) and it blew the 30A fuse on that battery. This motor is dead! Don't know if that is the cause of the problem or a symptom though...
 
Are you sure youve not lost the earth..?

How did you power the 'dead' motor..

Removed.. or just 2 prongs onto its contacts..?

Are you SURE the window itself isnt jammed??

The wiring is odd.. my cheapest mj
Will only power LH door with RH door closed.. :eek:

Charlie
 
had this few months back fixed wires in door loom, when tried to operate window switch on drivers side for passenger window display panel would dim and raido would turn off.. and engine would not shut off key out and car locked, so along with door wire loom water had got into fuse box looked perfect from top, took fuse box our of car then seen the connector blocks had water on them and discoloured removed fusebox from plastic casing was wet inside connectors had light corrision and one burnt out metal line/flat steel wire, dried and cleaned matrix layers (3 of the 7 layers) cured the window problem battery drain and engine not shuting off
 
Thanks for the responses.
I powered the motor by sticking 12V from a battery direct onto it's connections, both ways round. The window was still. I have since, removed the motor and regulator, and pushed the window up manually, a bit stiff, but not much.
Fuse box, I couldn't see a way to remove the fuses from the box, and I did try! But there is no evidence of water ingress either on the fuse level, or on the connectors at the bottom, so I think I'm OK here. I also don't get random electrical things, everything apart from the drivers window is working well (except for the rear lights failing occasionally, but that IS water ingress n the lights themselves, pull them apart every few weeks and clean them up, all good!)
Now that I have raised the window manually (secured with a piece of wood!) I have purchased a spare door from an 08 model, going to replace the door wiring loom, window motor and window switch panel from the donor, and see where I am.
 
Update - Wiring loom and window motor have been replaced. I was able to raise the window using the same 12V battery approach, so I believe the old motor was broken. The switching circuit for that side is still not functioning, so I'm still looking into solutions for that.
 
Final Update (Hopefully)
This is now resolved. The fault was in the fuse box, no voltage on the drivers side window motor wire, but voltage on the fuse. I have added a fuse holder, and a new piece of wire connecting to the original wiring loom just outside the fuse box. Window now works correctly.
 
i have gremlins issue with my driver window last month, some times stuck open , i have remove the key and insert nothing happen, i try after 30 minutes remove the key and the window close fine, this problem repeat 3 times and the solution is tthe same.
I suspect Body Computer fail because the same thing happened a year ago with the passenger window, then I checked all the wires that end up in the door and it was ok.

My car is Grande punto 1,3 multijet 2007
 
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Are you sure youve not lost the earth..?

The wiring is odd.. my cheapest mj
Will only power LH door with RH door closed.. :eek:

Charlie


I found my issue.. broken wires :eek:

Solder repairs to drivers door wiring loom

All working great now :)
 

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