Technical Throttle body relearning, how to do this?

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Technical Throttle body relearning, how to do this?

onnaj

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Have a Punto T-Jet and to be sure I want to do a throttle body relearning.

I have multiecuscan but I can't find how to do this with my t-jet engine.

Thanks for the replies!
 
Why do you think you need to "learn" anything?
What's wrong with the car?
People are obsessed with some FES/MES functions, just because they are there available.
Doesn't mean, they are useful and you "must" use them everytime you open the hood/bonnet.
Actually some of them are useless and do (almost) nothing (or name of the option is misleading).

Some functions are present or not, depends on FES/MES version and your car (ECU) version, year (and for example emissions standards, Euro 4 or 5).
I don't see the throttle related options in my old FES/MES and "16V Turbo" or "T-Jet/StarJet" engines. Maybe latest MES has it.

Throttle bodies (TPS sensors) are all made within spec (+/- some tolerance). You can swap the throttle with brand new or used one and it will work just fine. No need to "learn" (just because there is an option - or not).

If you car is misbehaving due to throttle (and you're 100% sure), you should clean/repair/swap the throttle.
Not "learn" it = adapt the engine (ECU) to the faulty throttle!
This is ass-backwards service/maintenance "strategy".

Software gimmicks will not "fix" the mechanical issues. You can only hide the problems, temporarily.
 
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Agree. And if car is idling & running ok, theres no need to re-learn. I dont know how itson fiat, but renault for example after turning off engine quickly moves flap to max, then min, and then little open it - to be ready for next start.
 
Idling is okay, only problem I have is that after a (close to) full boost run, the car is bogging/shaking between 1000 and 1500 rpm. When I shut down the engine and restart it, it's gone right away.

When I look at the logs then I see a negative spark advance twice during a full boost run. When I drive quietly in 2nd gear afterwards, between 1000-1500, the bogging starts. When I look in the log the spark/timing advance is jumping from positive to negative all the time.

I have a VL38 and a remap, but we now think something's wrong with the remap :-( Knock count is 0 by the way, so I don't expect the knock sensor to be faulty.

If you have any other ideas I'm happy to hear them!
 
The software was partially creating this problem but after adjusting it still isn't smooth as it should be.

I have hesitations with cold engine now around 1000 rpm, sometimes hesitations when accelerating with power loss and with real warm engine there's a lot of bogging in very low rpm (for example when driving in a traffic jam.

And since I've own the car, before tuning, it's difficult to drive smoothly.
When driving from stand in first gear it's like sometimes a valve sticks and opens at once. This also happens with accelerating in all gears.

So not the smoothest ride yet :-(
 
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