Northern Auto Tech - ECU and Blue & Me Repairs

Technical Drive Belt Tensioner and pulley replacement

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Technical Drive Belt Tensioner and pulley replacement

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everson38

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Hey guys

Have 1.4 2009 tjet GP. It is due some love as parts are starting to play up. I have a chirpy type / grunchy noise coming from belt area and believe it is the tensioner.

I want to replace it, now to replace it do I (see pic)

1) Remove the hex bolt (A) that is situated in the spring load mechanism I guess it is and simply pull it off

OR

2) Do i remove the bolt (B) that is situated in the pulley part and simply pull that of OR is it a remove both? 20190917_133957.jpeg
 
Looks like it's an all-in-one mechanism ... The T-Jet manual says to "neutralize " the spring action by inserting a pin (use a flat spanner on the protruding part to release the spring) in the housing and THEN, remove the (B) screw and the whole assembly...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 

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  • Belt tensionner TJet.JPG
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  • Belt tensioner 1.4 8V.jpg
    Belt tensioner 1.4 8V.jpg
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Bernievarian said:
Looks like it's an all-in-one mechanism ... The T-Jet manual says to "neutralize " the spring action by inserting a pin (use a flat spanner on the protruding part to release the spring) in the housing and THEN, remove the (B) screw and the whole assembly...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
Click to expand...
Thanks Berne can you tell me what heading this passage was under on the elearn as was struggling to find it
 
Hi!
Bernie's explanation is a little wrong here.

To unmount the device:

1. Slacken the 6mm internal hex screw at "A".

2. Use a flat prybar to force the wheel down until the two locking holes align.

3. Put a 4mm pin of some kind through the holes.

4. Slacken and remove the prybar.

5. Unscrew the "A" and remove the device.

Remount is just the other way around.

BTW. The spring end of my device was totally seized internal, so I had to get a new one.

While you are at it check the alternator for cracks in the casing and the bearing for hard
points and noise when turning. I did the "BIG" service at my 8V last autum (Toothed belt, water pump, clutch (dualogic) and engine mountings). My alternator gave up last january, and it would have been a lot easier to change it while the driveshaft was off and the engine was hanging in a chain on a bridge, than to do it laying at my back at a cold concrete floor the last week of january. I am 69y and I still struggle with a "golf elbow" I got from that.

BRs. Kjeld
 
Yep, it was actually about losening the screw in A, release the spring and lock it with the pin and finally remove the screw and the whole B assembly ...

That can be found under "Procedures" as seen below ...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 

Attachments

  • Heading tensionner.JPG
    Heading tensionner.JPG
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kjeldio said:
Hi!
Bernie's explanation is a little wrong here.

To unmount the device:

1. Slacken the 6mm internal hex screw at "A".

2. Use a flat prybar to force the wheel down until the two locking holes align.

3. Put a 4mm pin of some kind through the holes.

4. Slacken and remove the prybar.

5. Unscrew the "A" and remove the device.

Remount is just the other way around.

BTW. The spring end of my device was totally seized internal, so I had to get a new one.

While you are at it check the alternator for cracks in the casing and the bearing for hard
points and noise when turning. I did the "BIG" service at my 8V last autum (Toothed belt, water pump, clutch (dualogic) and engine mountings). My alternator gave up last january, and it would have been a lot easier to change it while the driveshaft was off and the engine was hanging in a chain on a bridge, than to do it laying at my back at a cold concrete floor the last week of january. I am 69y and I still struggle with a "golf elbow" I got from that.

BRs. Kjeld
Click to expand...

69 yearsyoung! Impressive good on you that you hadthis work all done by your ownsmeans, very impressive. Thanks for the write up, my car has a few little niggles i want to get done , so iwill keep you posted once job is done.
 
Does anyone know of a good brand replacement for the drive belt tensioner? Is it best to go OEM or aftermarket. Seeing brands of Gates / Febi / SKF?
 
See my answer in the Drive Belt Tensioner - Which Brand ? thread and make your own mind up about Gates.
 
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