Technical injector don't open

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Technical injector don't open

palin

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Sep 8, 2019
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Hello . I have a problem, the car does not start. From the sound it makes, I assumed that it is a problem with fuel.I checked the pump. and this works. After I removed the injectors I saw that they do not spray :| .I cleaned them at home where they worked very well.Unfortunately mounted on the car does not spray. Does anyone know what the problem might be?

Thank you .
 
Weird "skill-set". You are able to "diagnose" one system (fuel), but don't know what to do next?
How about ignition system?
And timing (starting at "TDC sensor")?
Maybe other sensors (like "MAP")?
And what engine is this? Diesel, petrol (+LPG or CNG)?

It's year 2019, buy some diagnostic interface (like "ELM327") and "MES" software.
 
It's a real shame that the spirit of what is said in Andy's sticky " The treatment of new members" is forgotten or never read in the first place. It seems that some think one has to earn the right to ask for assistance or somehow appease the "elite" by exhausting every other option before starting a thread. Yes I agree it's frustrating opening very similar threads...and never seeing feedback regarding progress or resolution. It's more frustrating seeing criticism being spewed out at every opportunity aimed at infidels that thoughtlessly take up time and resources with their pointless questions. I tend to admire idiots like myself that are brave enough to open a bonnet and pick up a screwdriver and attempt a repair themselves without having spent years at university or college obtaining the requisite qualification, perhaps being bold enough to register on a seemingly appropriate forum to ask for advice... then again I can understand if they simply vanish without trace after reading the hostility metered out by those that forget the spirit of what community is all about.
 
Hello . I have a problem, the car does not start. From the sound it makes, I assumed that it is a problem with fuel.I checked the pump. and this works. After I removed the injectors I saw that they do not spray :| .I cleaned them at home where they worked very well.Unfortunately mounted on the car does not spray. Does anyone know what the problem might be?

Thank you .

We don't even know what engine it is ... not to mention the lack of presentation !!

Sorry Frosti but it's not really the best first post I've seen; I do understand people looking for help or advice, and I try to provide some answers and share my little knowledge when I can, but in this case it's honestly not encouraging ...

@ Palin: provides us with more details, i.e HOW have you checked the injectors "at home", and also the history of the issue you're having, and maybe we'll be able to help.
And as GPPL said spend a few tennies on an ELM327 and a MES license...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 
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I completely agree with your comment Bernie. I find your contributions informative ,generous and entertaining. I am sure people would find answers to a lot of their issues if they spent time reading through the huge amount of information you and others like yourself contribute. It's saved me a lot of time and money for sure. My comments earlier related more to other people's ranting whenever they found posts beneath them and seemingly polluting the forum. Fortunately however there are so many others that contribute positively and make this all worthwhile and for that I thank you.
Best wishes in return
 
Weird "skill-set". You are able to "diagnose" one system (fuel), but don't know what to do next?
How about ignition system?
And timing (starting at "TDC sensor")?
Maybe other sensors (like "MAP")?
And what engine is this? Diesel, petrol (+LPG or CNG)?

It's year 2019, buy some diagnostic interface (like "ELM327") and "MES" software.

I don't understand what skill you need to check injector or fuel pump as long as you do it after some tutorials.
I apologize for not giving more details. I'll do it now.

The car is a 2008 Fiat Grande Punto, 1.4 55KW / 75 Ps
The car was at the mechanic's. They tested it, but neither of them gave me a clear diagnosis, and telling me that he has to change several parts and that the sum can exceed 1000 Euro. (I can't afford to invest this money.) .

The car only starts pushing when the engine is cold .After the engine heats up start if I repeatedly accelerate .
So I think the starter is good.I tried another battery and it does the same.
Can it be because of the TDC sensor, if it starts only when it is pushed?
I admit I checked this sensor after a tutorial, but I'm not sure I checked correctly.

Sorry if I upset anyone.
 
Maybe it will clear some things out for you as a new member (some observations, thoughts and "hate speech"):
1. Something is wrong with people recently. They must be almost bullied to give some relevant information.
They are also lazy (and when you call them out, they play "victim card" - most common "tactic", childish one). Most will NEVER search for existing topics, but start a new one - and forum staff encourage this form of spamming. Many topics are not solved ever (this should be penalized too - if you don't come back and update your thread, it should be erased, but it's not).
Classic "Quantity over Quality" of content politics. Number of "clicks" (ad revenue).

2. This is (or should be) technical forum, not social media BS (where you do "virtue signaling" how politically correct SJW you are, and score points that way - "likes"). This is not a Facebook, Twitter or whatever.
Some here play that game, facts don't matter, it's mostly about likes/dislikes. Watch out (they're not your "friends").
Now decide which type you are: "attention seeker", or you just want to fix a car.

3. Chill out, you don't have to apologize. Just be more technical next time (and do the "homework"), that's all.
If you are "offended" by straight technical questions (and suggestions) like many folks here, that's your problem ("truth hurts" and life is not fair - don't shoot the messenger).
Mind, this is also a language thing - native English speakers often see it (straight, honest, down to earth questions) as an "attack" (and in most cases they can only respond by "disliking" - for sure this will fix someones car). Maybe it's the way how non-natives construct sentences (so it triggers some emotional reactions), don't know. We have folks from all around the world here.
So, be (all of you) focused on the problem, technical things, not feelings or "vibe" you get from posts.

4. Giving new people fake "pat on the back", can be a disservice in a long run (you spoil them, new members think they're "special snowflakes" just because they are new - it rarely works that way in a real life). So I guess, I'll always be a "bad guy" here. OK. Whatever...

:cool:
Back to the topic (watch out for "offensive attack", click "Dislike" now).
A. Mechanics that "checked" the car, were incompetent. Dump them (sounds brutal). Find some other shop.
B. Try to check (based on your skills, knowledge and internet) other systems (like suggested earlier), ignition, timing, various sensors.
C. Diagnostic "cable" + dedicated Fiat software (FES or MES) is a must to do DIY repairs. Sorry.
You will be able to check if TDC sensor is working (RPM reading) when hot, MAP + temperature, you can open (power up) the coils and injectors, individually.
Hot "non-start" was a common problem in older generations (Punto 1 and 2 or even older ones like UNO), and TDC was to blame (but this is well know problem-solution, described on forum multiple times - so we go back to the point number 1 from my rambling above, this topic was started without much Searching).
 
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The only difference between starter and push start when cold is the remaining battery voltage which is much less when the starter pulls current, so the various sensors and ECU might be fooled, specially if combined with bad earthing. Once the engine is hot, the battery has been full charged so is less prone to drop its voltage when sollicitated by the starter and as a result the engine finally starts.

Jump a lead between the negative of the battery to the gearbox/engine and from there to the chassis and see what happens.

You haven't told HOW you tested the injector...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 
The only difference between starter and push start when cold is the remaining battery voltage which is much less when the starter pulls current, so the various sensors and ECU might be fooled, specially if combined with bad earthing. Once the engine is hot, the battery has been full charged so is less prone to drop its voltage when sollicitated by the starter and as a result the engine finally starts.

Jump a lead between the negative of the battery to the gearbox/engine and from there to the chassis and see what happens.

You haven't told HOW you tested the injector...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

Thank you , I tested at home with a 6v battery and a cleaner liquid for injectors from Liqui Moly .
I'll try today. I'll come back with details. Thank you .
 
Does the engine crank at correct speed with starter or do you feel it "slower" than usual ? If slower, that would indicate the battery can't deliver what it should, either because it's dying OR there is a contact resistance @ some earthing point. The positive path also needs to enter the equation: resistive contacts will have the exact same effect !! So you'll have to inspect the starter positive connection aswell. Of course the battery terminals MUST be clean an tight.
BTW: how are your sparkplugs looking after a failed cold start ? And after having run a few tens of miles ? They could tell us if petrol comes-in or not and how rich/lean is the mixture when engine runs...

Be carefull when you inspect the positive path: the car's negative (earth) is everywhere on its body and you can get a short cut any time !! Do that check with one terminal disconnected (usually GND) !!

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 

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