I should have included this pic when I was asking for engine component descriptions



What are each of the sensor/electrical parts with labels?

DAMMIT!! :bang:

So I thought I would replace the last two vac tubes, that go into and out of the vac accumulator.

and this happened





The remaining pipe comes from the vac pump, if I suck this [stop it!!] I can suck through it, but I cant blow through it, so in there is a check valve.

Other than that I cant see it doing much other than holding a tiny bit of vacuum when the engine is off.

I have put a tube in bypassing it for now, everything seems ok.

I will buy a small one way valve to put into the tube, just in case it really needs it.

As this is now scrap, I might cut it open to see whats in it [nothing, likely]

There is nothing in there, the purpose of this réservoir is to stabilize the vacuum pulses and insulate the turbo vanes actuator from the brake servo... So it DOES something else than storing a little vacuum !!

The port can be repared with UV hardening resin.

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

hi, I have sourced one locally from a Fiat breaker, will pick it up tomorrow.

MG sold yesterday, GP Dizzle now on the road

and its running very well indeed, although I bought a replacement vac canister I have not fitted it, I have put a one way valve in the vac tube which acts in the same direction as the one built into the tank does, its made a remarkable difference to it boosting up a bit sooner

if there are any detrimental effects, it will get fitted.


So there you go, I came back to the forum enquiring about these cars, eventually got one, had a few problems and parts to buy, learned a lot about the engine in the process [one of my aims as it goes]

one last job, and its a game of chance - have the air con recharged. 50/50 chance, it will either work, or not!

levemircento said:

one last job, and its a game of chance - have the air con recharged. 50/50 chance, it will either work, or not!

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Have you checked the compressor clutch circuit before doing a gas refill ?? I would !
One bad relay or a blown fuse may result in a non working AC, here is the drawing ...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

wouldnt accept a recharge of gas due to a leak, I assume its the condenser as there is oil [theres oil in the ac system] under the radiator area on top of the lower crossmember

on way home from work this evening, car had smoke belching out on pulling away, shortly followed by it going into limp mode and engine light on.


probably looking at the turbo failing, the whining was still present and it still doesnt pull away in first gear properly

it will have to be repaired, by myself, cant afford for a mechanic to do it so am now faced with buying a complete replacement turbo, or the cartridge assembly, dont want to buy used - no point on an item like this but a straight turbo swap should be much easier than messing about with a core/cartridge

deep joy

What does MES say about the error/fault ?

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

hi Bernie, I havent got MES or an adapter yet. I will check to see if my generic code reader picks anything up this evening back I am back home and am able to plug it into the car.

generic code reader not picking anything up

levemircento said:

generic code reader not picking anything up

Click to expand...

Another reason to buy MES ...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

Bernievarian said:

Another reason to buy MES ...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

Click to expand...

Bernie's advice is good. We've had Panda's in the family for years as learner cars for children and town runaround. I havered for quite some time (not unusual for me) before deciding on MES and was finally tipped over the edge when my oldest boy bought a '12 plate Punto and we finally parted with our old Panda Parade replacing it with a '10 plate Panda Dynamic Eco. These newer cars need software simply to reset the service reminder! Of course there is a whole raft of other, quite simple, and extraordinarily useful, "stuff" you can do and a load more advanced stuff you can safely learn about as your knowledge progresses - MES is very good at giving you instructions and prompts when you are using it. I would strongly advise you to download the free software and run it in "simulate" mode where you can select individual vehicles and observe what is possible to do. The other thing I think is good to do is to buy from an approved supplier. I would have no hesitation in recommending Gendan - where I bought mine - You can ask them lots of questions before you buy and you will get interconnects which work out of the box (a certain amount of configuration to your laptop and vehicle is required and I would advise you to follow the enclosed instructions closely as getting just one thing wrong stops the process (I know, been there!) but a quick phone call to Gendan and I was up and running. Several Forum members made useful contributions too.

I use mine to do a whole vehicle scan before starting work - You know then whether you've caused an additional problem when trying to "sort" whatever you are working on. Getting fault codes displayed that you know you can rely on (generic code readers sometimes lead you down the "garden path" with their results) is a major benefit. I also find being able to graph sensor outputs etc very helpful when fault finding. A couple of years ago graphing and understanding what something was trying to tell me would have been like "black magic" but you find the more you use it and experiment the more useful it becomes. When I bought mine I hoped it was going to be useful, even if only for resetting the service, but now, some two years later, it's become an atomatic "go to" whenever I'm working on anything not strictly mechanical.

So, doing your own services and repairs? Buy your own licenced copy, You'll find it indispensable. - and there's a wealth of resource in the knowledge base of all our friends here on the forum if you need help.

If you're still hesitating after that one ...

Cheers, Bernie

hiya, I have ordered the adapter and am waiting for it to be delivered

in the meantime, my friend plugged his laptop in that has something similar called multidiag, he used this system when working for a recovery company/breakdown service

anyway it showed up a fault as being the pressure converter, which is the small valve just below the slam panel which controls the vac to the actuator, this was a couple of days ago and I jumped on the 'net and bought a brand new one, its coming from Germany.

This afternoon I have had the original valve out, rigorously used my vac pump on it, the valve itself makes a few wheezing noises, not entirely healthy, I tapped it, sweared at it, and refitted it, upon driving I can only describe the car as being normal! and OK! - power in a useable place in first gear! I was initially just going to drive it from my back yard round to the front of the house, but instead as the car was driving that good I just done a 40 mile trip halfway up the M56 and back!

however after restarting after a visit to the shop, it was back to being poor.

But I know what the fault is, and the part is on its way.

And so is an adapter, so I can use MES, in the future.

Good decision !

first thing you'd do with MES is to plot the Actual Boost Pressure vs the Expected Boost Pressure and see the discrepancy with a deffective vacuum system... You'll be also able to see any improvement when adjusting (slowly!!) the linking rod length, and discover A LOT of very interesting stuff with that little gemm...

Cheers, Bernie

so in the last couple of weeks car has been in daily use and all has mostly been good

I had the EML come on during a trip home one night, and it went into limp mode, but then the next day it was fine! this was before my MES adapter turned up.

I now have MES, is there a way to find previously stored codes?


One thing I have noticed, that crawling in traffic and at standstill/idling, there is a diesel fume smell in the cabin, theres no loss of diesel anywhere in the engine bay, the exhaust seems ok throughout its length, bulkhead has no holes or gaps in it.

That diesel fume odor usually comes from the EGR flange that doesn't seat well (if it has been removed for cleaning) or from the flex at the exhaust piping...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

I have had a look at near where the EGR is, its too busy round the back of there to look or even feel for the bolts that might fix it on / together, it might be easier to see from underneath.

I think flexy is ok, later this week I will get the front up on ramps and have a look at this and the other.

It's crowded there indeed, the flange I'm refering to is the conical one at the end of the corrugated "flex" inox pipe that comes from the EGR itself to the cooler. It has a sort of clip AND A WASHER SEAL that if not well fitted/tigth would generate that stincky odour... It can be "accessed" from the top with the air box removed.

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

Bernievarian said:

It's crowded there indeed, the flange I'm refering to is the conical one at the end of the corrugated "flex" inox pipe that comes from the EGR itself to the cooler. It has a sort of clip AND A WASHER SEAL that if not well fitted/tigth would generate that stincky odour... It can be "accessed" from the top with the air box removed.

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

Click to expand...

I will have a look, are there any diagrams of it around?