General Any Dualogic Specialist in West Yorks

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General Any Dualogic Specialist in West Yorks

Optikal

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As the title says, I need a dualogic specialist in West Yorks to have a look at my motor that is currently sat with a transmission fault as a non-runner on my drive. No one that I have called will touch it, Not even Leeds Gearbox Specialist. Any advice would be very gratefully received.
 
As the title says, I need a dualogic specialist in West Yorks to have a look at my motor that is currently sat with a transmission fault as a non-runner on my drive. No one that I have called will touch it, Not even Leeds Gearbox Specialist. Any advice would be very gratefully received.

Hi. What is the issue?

The gearbox is probably standard gp

It is the hydraulic actuation that scares them.. this IS servicable to a degree..

When did you last have it checked over for fluid level?

Charlie
 
Never. I have only had it since last February, bought it from a guy who bought it from auction with no service hsitory. The problem m is, no one wants to look at it for me. All previously recommended specialists via Google and this forum are either closed or retired.

The actual issue is that whilst out driving about 6 weeks ago it just suddenly failed to find gear and came up with Transmission Error. After that every time I try and start it, the car starts and dies instantly.

I have an RAC scan results that shows CANBUS and Transmission errors but nothing specific.

I have eliminated that it may be the brake light switch. But I am aware that it could be anything from a bad earth, to an ecu fault, to corroded wiring or something much more sinister. However, I am not mechanically knowledgeable or well equipped to deal it with it at home.
 
You could search for Dualogic in Car Parts on eBay, there are a couple of people who refurb Dualogic Actuators often on there. No idea of whereabouts they are based though.

Meanwhile, 2 questions:
Are there any leaks?
Does the pump start when you open the driver's door?

There are possibilities to at least get a better idea of what's wrong, or maybe even get mobile so you can drive it somewhere.
 
Never. I have only had it since last February, bought it from a guy who bought it from auction with no service hsitory. The problem m is, no one wants to look at it for me. All previously recommended specialists via Google and this forum are either closed or retired.

The actual issue is that whilst out driving about 6 weeks ago it just suddenly failed to find gear and came up with Transmission Error. After that every time I try and start it, the car starts and dies instantly.

I have an RAC scan results that shows CANBUS and Transmission errors but nothing specific.

I have eliminated that it may be the brake light switch. But I am aware that it could be anything from a bad earth, to an ecu fault, to corroded wiring or something much more sinister. However, I am not mechanically knowledgeable or well equipped to deal it with it at home.


Hi.
If the engine dies.. its NOT a specific gearbox fault.

The main earth cable from battery neg to engine.gearbox can break down internally.

I would do the trick with an extra cable.
See grande punto section FAQs.

As irc said the pump should run when drivers door is opened.. ;)

Charlie
 
You first need to take it to a mechanic equipped with MES or Examiner(mostly found in dealerships) who can correctly diagnose it.

It might just be as simple as loosing communication with the gearbox... and something as a bad ground and proxy alignment would fix the problem.
 
Thanks for the replies lads. Pump primes every time and there are no leaks. Would it help if I posted the RAC OBD readout?
 
Which do you mean:
the gearbox pump (when you open the driver's door) or
the fuel pump (when you turn the ignition on)?
Or both?
Both is good,
only one is a good clue,
neither means a different next step.

And another 2 questions:
Does the dashboard show "N" or a gear number when trying to start?
What position is the gear lever in?

Apologies for the confusion.
 
Both pumps are good mate. I popped my missus Fiesta battery onto the Punto and have taken a video of the issue. I also tried the earth trick from the FAQ and got an identical result. The car is in Neutr and shows an N. When it initially broke down it used to read "Transmission Error".

[ame]https://youtu.be/JDF_iLnOJK4[/ame]
 

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OK, a couple more questions:
With Ignition on but engine off, if you move lever to "R" can you hear the gear being selected?
(If you do, move changer to first, then back to reverse a couple of times. You should hear gears being selected, and after a few shifts the pump should run again)
With the lever in normal Drive position, if you try to start without your foot on the brake, what message do you get?
(Should be "Press brake and retry" or similar. If so, press brake and retry. Did it start, or just do the same as in the video?)

My suspicion (only a guess) is that you have water in your fuse box, or an earth lead problem, but it would be good to rule out as much as easily possible first, and the gearbox inhibit functions are a good place to start. However the video doesn't show strange dashboard behaviour, which I would normally expect with wet fuse box or dodgy earth lead...
 
I will snag her battery back tomorrow after work and try everything you have suggested and work from there. Thanks you for all your help, I can't tell you how much I appreciate this!
 
She has taken her car out to visit her Gran today so no diagnostic results until tomorrow unfortunately.

Here is the RAC report:

vKOb1IK


EDIT: For some reason it is not showing as an image so I'll add it as an attachment and separate link.

https://imgur.com/a/vKOb1IK
 

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Seems to me that the acceleretor pedal position is the best candidate.

Engine would start (doesn't realy need to know the pedal position) and then stop because of this missing info (doesn't know driver's desire), which is exactly what the OP says ...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 
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Hi.
Lots of sensor and can bus stuff. Right brake light too.

Wiring fault I duspect.. does the battery keep going flat?

The battery is flat now most likely because it has been stood since November. But prior to that, the battery was fine and is brand new.

So today when I stuck the battery on, turned the key to do the requested tests and the engine started! It was juddery, but it was idling for about a minute or so before cutting out and returning to the same behaviour shown in the video earlier in this thread. I tried my best to replicate it, but couldn't get the same result.

OK, a couple more questions:
With Ignition on but engine off, if you move lever to "R" can you hear the gear being selected?
(If you do, move changer to first, then back to reverse a couple of times. You should hear gears being selected, and after a few shifts the pump should run again)
With the lever in normal Drive position, if you try to start without your foot on the brake, what message do you get?
(Should be "Press brake and retry" or similar. If so, press brake and retry. Did it start, or just do the same as in the video?)

My suspicion (only a guess) is that you have water in your fuse box, or an earth lead problem, but it would be good to rule out as much as easily possible first, and the gearbox inhibit functions are a good place to start. However the video doesn't show strange dashboard behaviour, which I would normally expect with wet fuse box or dodgy earth lead...

It finds gears, the pump primes, I get the "Press Brake And Retry" and then get the same result as previous. Quick vid of the gears being selected...

[ame]https://youtu.be/S_yBSG8YGxk[/ame]


Speaking of strange dashboard behaviour, the dash is occasionally coming up with what looks like faint Russian and showing the mileage in KM. I'll attach a pic to show what I mean. A quick turn of the key though and it goes back to normal. Sometimes the transmission light flashes on and off repeatedly, but sometimes it doesn't.

I have had the fuses under the bonnet checked with a multimeter, as well as the gubbins attached to the positive terminal that sits on top of the battery. They are all fine according to the RAC guy. How would I do further checks on them and the fuse box itself to see if there is any water damage or other faults?

As mad as it sounds, I am going to pull the brake lights off and check for corrosion or any fault there. I'm not sure if it is a pointless effort but anything is worth a try I suppose.
 

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OK. Another good step forward. The strange dash behaviour, print of codes from an RAC reader, and the one-off start-up do point to one of the following, so let's have a look at them:

1. Earth Leads
Have a look in the Grande Punto section FAQs. There's a guide by Andy Monty about earths and fuse box problems.

2. Fuse Box
See (1)

3. A wiring fault.
Possibly a corroded/loose connector, break in a wire, etc. Could really do with some precise information to narrow it down. You could strike lucky by checking the known villains (rear light connectors, ECU connectors, ECU earth wire, BCU earth wire, and others)

4. Battery or Alternator
I know you've used a different battery, but it is (just) possible that neither your battery or the loan one are giving a stable voltage.
Similarly, I have seen a couple of cases where an alternator seems to be perfectly OK until it gets stressed a bit more than usual. Then it does all kinds of weird things, including flat battery, random electrical problems, etc.

The good news is that it sounds like your gearbox is working fine, and that the troubles you are having are "normal car" rather than "strange gearbox that nobody will touch" ones.

Any moderately competent auto electrician (or even a good local garage) should be able to sort it from here.

Unfortunately, I don't think a generic reader (as nearly always used by this type of place) gives a good enough idea of what's really going on, except for really simple problems.
Where are you based?
A local forum member with MultiECUScan could capture the existing (FIAT-specific) codes, clear them, and read any newly-generated codes from a couple of start-up attempts. That would give any auto-electrician or local garage a flying start on fixing it.

PS: I'm not criticising the RAC (or AA etc.) info, but I have helped a few people in the past who have been chasing errors from "the breakdown guy" which have not pointed to the real problem, and I'm wary of taking them at face value. The codes read are real codes, but the code descriptions vary in quality/accuracy.
 
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