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Old 31-12-2018   #1
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Front wheel bearing replacement

Hi All,
Yet to be confirmed, but likely I'd need to do the front wheel bearing. I know the procedure, that's not an issue. But I am wondering if I can do with one of those universal bush removal tools to push the bearing out and in rather than the hydraulic press? Will they manage, force wise?
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Old 31-12-2018   #2
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Re: Front wheel bearing replacement

I wouldn’t go to the bother any old Skool ( one that actually fixes stuff ) garage would gladly press out and in from your old hubs for what ever the local currency is, I have an amazing garage that on arrival with a catering size tub of Kenco ( other brands available ) happily do things like this for me. And if it’s done with the correct press and dollies then the inner races won’t suffer premature failure which is often an issue with non parallel methods. You
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Old 31-12-2018   #3
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Re: Front wheel bearing replacement

Not sure why it has a you on the end,
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Old 31-12-2018   #4
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Re: Front wheel bearing replacement

Me neither, looks as prematurely sent. Trust me, if bringing the removed hub to a garage would be a logistically attractive option I would not bother and bring the whole car to them. Last time I asked a garage (different country) to do a bearing they actually failed, and at current place I also have little trust, had to post-correct a job one time too many. Hence I investigate full DIY options first (as always).

My original question still stands.
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Old 31-12-2018   #5
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Re: Front wheel bearing replacement

Thank YOU
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Old 31-12-2018   #6
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Quote Originally Posted by woj View Post
Me neither, looks as prematurely sent. Trust me, if bringing the removed hub to a garage would be a logistically attractive option I would not bother and bring the whole car to them. Last time I asked a garage (different country) to do a bearing they actually failed, and at current place I also have little trust, had to post-correct a job one time too many. Hence I investigate full DIY options first (as always).

My original question still stands.
Lot of pressure required..

Obviously heat-cold helps

Not sure the pressure of a decent hydraulic puller ( Sykes Picavant) would be enough
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Old 31-12-2018   #7
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Re: Front wheel bearing replacement

Truck size socket, two pieces steel bar, one threaded rod and two nuts, all kind of stuff available in the bush or even the jungle and you're done ... if you have no access to decent tooling ;-)

Cheers, Bernie
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Old 31-12-2018   #8
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Re: Front wheel bearing replacement

Quote Originally Posted by varesecrazy View Post
Lot of pressure required..

Obviously heat-cold helps

Not sure the pressure of a decent hydraulic puller ( Sykes Picavant) would be enough
Yes. Lots and Lots of pressure!

Many years ago I "inherited" this:-

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and, over the years, I've made/aquired various adaptors etc, some of which are these:-

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So far my crowning glory has been the tubular adaptor which was made for a front wheel bearing - Maxi I think? If you look inside it (next image) you can see how I had to weld in an expansion piece to get the diameter right:-

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The fitting was all hand filed and the welding was done with my SIP 140 "stick welder (many more years would pass before I bought my MIG).
Plenty of force can be applied via my 2ft long power bar and 3/4BSW (32mm) socket. But, although I have had great success with smaller components - and I have done some wheel bearings too - it failed to move the Maxi front wheel bearing or my boy's Astra front wheel bearing.

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The owner of our local Audi specialist, who is married to my friends daughter, when I was having trouble with the Astra, invited me to use his shop hydraulic press - very kind of him - unfortunately the retaining circlip was severely corroded and I couldn't shift it! Took him about 10 minutes with a large hammer and shaped punch. He's done that before I remember thinking!
The entirely satisfactory, and unexpected outcome has been that he has offered me the use of the press if I need it again at some time in the future. This is wonderful because it's one thing to have a nice powerful press and it's quite another to be able to access the vast range of adaptors and distance pieces you need to do a good job without damaging the new bearing.
So - Lucky me! The hydraulic press makes it much easier and you are much much less likely to do damage to the new bearing. So, even if I didn't have access to this kind man's press I would probably not try without one. As has been said earlier in the thread, most small garages or engineering works would be pleased to charge you a modest fee to do it and, in my view, money well spent.
Regards
Jock

PS I could say sorry for the untidy state of my work bench and claim that it's not usually like this - But that would be a lie!
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Old 31-12-2018   #9
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Re: Front wheel bearing replacement

Quote Originally Posted by Bernievarian View Post
Truck size socket, two pieces steel bar, one threaded rod and two nuts, all kind of stuff available in the bush or even the jungle and you're done ... if you have no access to decent tooling ;-)

Cheers, Bernie
I know it also very much depends on the state of things, the lock ring, etc. I can only hope mine is 10 years and 145kkm old, so should not be a total disaster. In the Cinq section in the archive I recall seeing a 5 ton figure to do the job, wonder how much force I can inflict with a threaded rod... 5 tons sounds like a lot for an M12 thread (what they have in these bush kits) and my weak arms.
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Old 02-01-2019   #10
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Re: Front wheel bearing replacement

So I am trying to diagnose this, far from being even near sure. There is a constant rather loud buzz that comes on around 70 km/h, peaks at 90, goes sort of away by 120. No difference when rpm change, gear, clutch in or out, or even when turning. Seems to be only rolling speed.
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Old 02-01-2019   #11
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Re: Front wheel bearing replacement

After concluding it comes from the rear right, external inspection of the wheel shows that the brake disc is rusted = the brake is not catching. Possible that it just seized?
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Old 02-01-2019   #12
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Re: Front wheel bearing replacement

Quote Originally Posted by woj View Post
So I am trying to diagnose this, far from being even near sure. There is a constant rather loud buzz that comes on around 70 km/h, peaks at 90, goes sort of away by 120. No difference when rpm change, gear, clutch in or out, or even when turning. Seems to be only rolling speed.
Well that certainly sounds like a wheel bearing problem. - just might be final drive but typically that would vary with power on/ power off and is a less likely scenario.

So lets go with wheel bearings for now. It sounds like you haven't yet dismantled anything? If so you can do a bit more diagnosing. Find a nice empty bit of road, deserted large car park, or anywhere that you can drive at moderate speed without endangering yourself or others. Get up to the speed at which you hear the noise and "weave" That is to say steer left and right. You are trying to load and unload the wheel bearings - but don't get "silly" with it, you are not trying to roll the car! Make sure the "Boys in Blue" aren't around as they seem to be fascinated by these sort of activities and will be keen to have a "chat" with you! If it's a bearing it should get more noisy under load and reduce, or possibly disappear, when unloaded. So if it gets louder when you turn right then it's the left side and if more noisy on left lock then it's the right side. Usually it's pretty obvious if it's front or rear but occasionally more than one bearing will be worn or noises are being transmitted through the body shell just to fool you. You can also jack up each wheel in turn, try to "rock" them top to bottom and side to side to check for play, then spin them by hand whilst listening for the "rumble" of a worn bearing but sometimes, because it's unloaded, it won't make much noise. Also, on front wheel drive, it can be difficult to spin them up enough to diagnose because of driveshaft and gearbox drag. If this is the case you can spin it up using the car's engine but you need to chock the other wheels and apply the hand brake tightly. Ok you classic SAAB owners, I know your handbrakes work on the front wheels! Then with that corner of the car on an axle stand select 2nd gear, or you may need 3rd (but try 2nd first) and with the engine running let the clutch in gently. Be aware that because the other driven wheel is on the ground the differential is going to cause the "free" wheel to spin at twice the speed, for any set engine RPM compared with what it would if you were driving down the road. So you don't need to rev the nuts off it to spin the wheel up to a fast speed. Above all be SMOOTH about what you do - let the clutch in smoothly and gently. increase and decrease engine RPM smoothly and gradually - You don't want to jerk it off the stand and, of course, absolutely no one standing in front or behind!

By the way, particularly when you are spinning the wheel by hand, expect to hear the brake pads/linings "skiffing" against the disc/drum as you rotate it and you may need to very slightly retract brake pads as they will often exert enough drag on a hub to stop the wheel spinning freely. Also Keep the brain "engaged" all the time as unexpected things can happen. My first "unexpected happening" was when many years ago I spectacularly removed the skin from the outside of all four of the fingers on my right hand when servicing an Austin 1100. On this model (and It's sister 1300 variants) the rear tyre ran so close to the swing arm casting that there was not enough room for fingers too! If you were right handed it was usually the OSR (driver's side rear) wheel that got you. With the car up on the ramp you would do your "rocking" checks for play and then, without thinking - because you had done it so often on so many other cars - The right hand would grip the top of the tyre and give it a vigorous tug down to the right to spin it up. trouble was, on this car, there was only about 3/4 of the thickness of a finger between the suspension casting and the tread of the tyre. Casting? very hard and roughly knobbly! Tyre? Typically rubbery and grips fingers very well! Fingers? Soft and easily squished! Outcome? A bloody mess! However, I can assure you, not as messy as putting the tips of your right middle finger, and the one beside it, into the blade of a running rotary lawnmower! Although it pulls lots of attention and sympathy It's not really worth it and it doesn't half hurt when the nurse scrubs the ingrained dirt out with, what looked suspiciously like, a nail brush.

So good luck with whatever you decide to do. If you decide to try any of the above please be very careful and if you really don't know what your doing then don't try it! I can't be there to keep you safe so be it on your own head!! I underwent nearly 5 years of training, gained City and Guilds qualifications, Became a full member of the institute of the Motor Industry (had letters after my name Oh yes!) and still manage, to this day, to regularly injure myself! Mrs Jock has Elastoplast, bandages and Germolene ointment in an old ice cream tub on the kitchen worktop so she can grab it in a hurry!
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Old 02-01-2019   #13
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Re: Front wheel bearing replacement

Hey woj. took me so long to compose the above you managed to get another post in before me!
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Old 02-01-2019   #14
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Re: Front wheel bearing replacement

Quote Originally Posted by Pugglt Auld Jock View Post
Hey woj. took me so long to compose the above you managed to get another post in before me!
The question is - can a gone bearing in the rear have anything to do with disfunctional brake?
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Old 02-01-2019   #15
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Re: Front wheel bearing replacement

Quote Originally Posted by woj View Post
The question is - can a gone bearing in the rear have anything to do with disfunctional brake?
I suppose it might but the drum would have to be wobbling something fierce? Anyway I thought we were diagnosing a possible wheel bearing fault? When did the brakes get in on the act? Don't see any mention above?
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