nikrox said:

WTF!!..I'm 6'2",14 stone and 56..started to panic when I was upside down on the drivers seat with my stomach stuck on the steering wheel.I got one off but not the other two,some kinda clips..will try again but what!!!..

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Sorry...I had to smile a little as you are describing me exactly. It was far easier taking the picture earlier than climbing inside but once you know what you are looking for it was pretty easy. Reminded me of changing the clutch cable on my Seicento the first time.. I did find just kneeling outside the door made it possible, the clips on the connectors just need a squeeze if I remember..no need for tools. I think Bernie is talking about using a mirror to see whats what

the black plug comes out easily but for the life of me i cant get the other two out..anyone got any hints/tips/ideas?...

I just spoke to ECU testing,they are local to me..cost of diagnosi and repair £186,plus £14 post each way.
2-3 days turn around.
Supply a prebuilt unit £226 plus 2-3 days turn around.

TBH Im leaning towards a second hand unit..BUT was wondering if the 'cam phase solinods 'are a diy job or could I not just replace the motor itself?

Hi Nik,

the solenoid replacement should be straigth forward, here is how it looks; one connector, one screw and the thingh's out …

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

TBH Bernie I think I may have given the wrong part,,the error code was /is C1002....sorry..

Hi Nik,

this number is a "chassis" code and should start with C0, are you sure of that C1002 ?? It does not exist apparently by Fiat, but GM reports it has being the ABS rear wheels solenoid being faulty ...


BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

its the torque position sensor according to Google and an ECU place near me...
Could I just fit a second hand unit,matching numbers obvs,and have no issues with having it paired to the car etc??

Sounds like you are talking about the power steering again? Don't know how this got sidetracked to cam solenoid? Whatever, exchanging the power steering will require removing those connectors so best just focus on that. Perhaps visit the ecu place to see how the connectors work then give yours a quick reconnect and see if it resolves the problem...sad to see you dish out good money for nothing..

It's always been a thread about the power steering....fault code initially read on a snap on reader was C1002.

I still can get the connectors off and dont want to break anything by being too heavy handed.

Hi Nik,

will have a look tomorrow on mine to see how they (the connectors) fit …

BRs, Bernie

nikrox said:

.fault code initially read on a snap on reader was C1002.

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Generic readers doesn't Always give the right code, can't You MES your EPS Ecu ??

Anyway, seems like you have to concentrate on the C connector, which carries the signals from the mode selector and the power status. For this one you have to lift the blue lock and then pull the shell. Similar with the A plug, lift the yellow lock and with the B plug where the lock is black (I guess) OR is the white thing in the midle… Can't see very well even with my 10€ endoscope camera (ali xpress) and not really wanting to remove dash parts ;-)...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

Cheers Bernie,I'll take a look in the morning..

The scanner used was £4.500 worth of SNAP ON kit...I havent got acces to anything else..

nikrox said:

Cheers Bernie,I'll take a look in the morning..

The scanner used was £4.500 worth of SNAP ON kit...I havent got acces to anything else..

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Hi Nik,

lesson for me: don't believe too fast what google says ...

C1002 is actually the fault for the power steering torque sensor and the description you gave is 100% matching the one on this site:

http://www.stuurbekrachtigingspecia...ection-assistee-fiat-panda-direction-assistee

They are the reference in Holland, worth a visit on their site, very interesting stuff in there ...

Cheers, Bernie.

Cheers Bernie, this site was referenced in response to my Google search too.

Can anyone advise me IF a second hand part,with the same part numbers will fit and work straight off without any other programming etc...please??

I would say so, maybe just a proxy align … As I understand the Guys from Holland just ship a replacement (rebuild) set, plug & play apparently, pre-calibrated (for center position I guess) and ready to drive. If you got a spare with same #, I'd say go ahead !!

Cheers, Bernie

I looked at the part/link thanks Bernie. Its not that much cheaper than a rebuilt unit tbh..The rebuilt steering stem/ecu £186 ish..
I can get a working second hand ecu etc for £45 delivered,hence the ask..I was kinda thinking it would be a plug and play process and relatively painless.

Out of interest I asked two local garages for prices of replacement...£800 and £450...

If you are taking about the torque sensor I tried to replace mine when doing the ABS to ESP conversion and gave up. Mine was working but for the ESP to work I needed one with steering angle info. The main reason I gave up was that there is a huge snap ring that I could not remove and even when I disconnected the old torque sensor plug and plugged in the new one with the steering wheel angle info the EPS ecu would not give out and steering angle info (I guess the ecu are different). I ended up buying a used EPsteering column that had the steering angle sensor. Best buy a reconditioned one. The sensor wear out with time. (contact brushes)

Contact-type torque sensors use a wiper attached to the torsion bar and voltage divider attached to the rotating bridge attached to the motor shaft to measure the twist of the torsion bar. The rotating bridge uses contact brushes that connect to the sensor housing and connector to receive power, ground and transfer the voltage signal to the controller


This web site make it seem easy


but on some Italian web sites that do EPS repairs they say that when the sensor is replaced you need special diagnostic equipment to find the center point or it wont work properly

Appreciate the heads up..Im not wanting to spend a lot as the cars going to be sold as soon as its fixed..

Not sure how much the car's worth,it has two dents in it and my daughters not wanting to spend money she's not likely to recoup.
I did think that spending the money to buy a reconditioned part that came with a lifetime warrenty would be a good selling point BUT its not transferable to any new owner.

So its going to be a second hand unit that gets fitted. Im still waiting on clarity IF its as simple as a plug and play process..same part numbers obvs...

As the controller is CAN connected to the body computer, I'd say it will require a proxy alignement if replaced. It also needs to be 'zeroed', a new one would have a locking key that is removed after install. Ask the Holland guys about the proxy, they may answer you …

Cheers, Bernie