A fuse doesn't blow because of a bad ground, it blows because of higher than rated current consumption or a short. In turn it means you have a good ground.

It's the simplest system in the world... the car has nothing to do with it.. it's just a source of power, ground, input and output... i blame the install.... but that's how you learn.

aurick86 said:

A fuse doesn't blow because of a bad ground, it blows because of higher than rated current consumption or a short. In turn it means you have a good ground.

It's the simplest system in the world... the car has nothing to do with it.. it's just a source of power, ground, input and output... i blame the install.... but that's how you learn.

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then is there a reason its happening if all I have connected is ground and power, power is measuring at 12.5v and lead is at the moment not run through the car so I can see there is no breaks in the cable, as soon as I connect the neg on the batt it blows, iv done this the exact way a few times and had no problems ill get some fuses after work and have 1 last go before I call it a day if all been very helpful up till this point

Does it blow the fuse when there's nothing connected to the input&output???

aurick86 said:

Does it blow the fuse when there's nothing connected to the input&output???

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it's an active sub box so the speaker is connected inside its a vibe slick 12inch active enclosure, nothing else is connected only the ground and power from the battery, am I correct to be thinking connect battery positive firstly then the negative this is how iv always done it.

mikepunto89 said:

it's an active sub box so the speaker is connected inside its a vibe slick 12inch active enclosure, nothing else is connected only the ground and power from the battery, am I correct to be thinking connect battery positive firstly then the negative this is how iv always done it.

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Yes.. it shouldn't really matter.
If you're using the right thickness power wires and the fuse is the right amperage ...then i'd say the amp is bad.

What amperage fuse does it have?

mikepunto89 said:

it's an active sub box so the speaker is connected inside its a vibe slick 12inch active enclosure, nothing else is connected only the ground and power from the battery, am I correct to be thinking connect battery positive firstly then the negative this is how iv always done it.

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forget everything I have put for the last 2 days just went to check somthing and turns out iv only been connecting the power lead to the fooking negative terminal for the last 2 days every car if done it on i have clearly looked but having 2 kids and no spare time and thinking i knew what i was doing has clearly taken its tole on me the simplest of parts is the 1 i messed up. I am absolutely deverstated i hope of only blown fuses and not my actual amp someone please come and confiscate my GP i clearly cannot be trusted

aurick86 said:

Yes.. it shouldn't really matter.
If you're using the right thickness power wires and the fuse is the right amperage ...then i'd say the amp is bad.

What amperage fuse does it have?

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had a 60 amp inline and 30amp in amp but connected backwards it wouldn't really matter would it haha I feel so disappointed

Connection sequence matters !

Usually the ground is shared with the shielding so it needs to be connected first ! Lot of connectors physically implement this as the ground/shielding pin is longer than the others… So it's definitely a good habit to connect negative first !

The only exception if for the battery, last thing you want is to touch the body with the spanner while tightening the positive port so here it's better to connect the ground last and disconnect it first …


BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

Bernievarian said:

Connection sequence matters !

Usually the ground is shared with the shielding so it needs to be connected first ! Lot of connectors physically implement this as the ground/shielding pin is longer than the others… So it's definitely a good habit to connect negative first !

The only exception if for the battery, last thing you want is to touch the body with the spanner while tightening the positive port so here it's better to connect the ground last and disconnect it first …


BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

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at least I was doing something right haha well started a fresh today an 20 mins later all fitted and working as it should so far so good, thanks all for your input. hopefully I can be of some use on this forum somewhere.

mikepunto89 said:

. hopefully I can be of some use on this forum somewhere.

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You did it already Mike, Simply by sharing your experiments ;-)

Kind regards, Bernie

I think there is an issue with the amp, I am assuming that pos on the amp is connected to the battery and the neg to the chassis (ive never had issues, close as possible to ground the amp) the remote blue wire is presumably allowing the amp to either be remotely permanently on or in this case telling the amp to expect a signal on the rca line in to switch on. Assuming the wiring is as per the first described set up that would suggest an internal amp fault. Bench test would as advised be the next step, if the rca switching is a selectable option I would always turn it off and rely on the remote signal to switch the amp as the noise and trauma to the bass units when switched by the rca signal is always much more than the remote switch. In the cars defence I think it’s the amp, not your wiring or the Punto