Technical 1.4,8 valve idle speed and noises

Currently reading:
Technical 1.4,8 valve idle speed and noises

Joined
Dec 23, 2014
Messages
778
Points
198
My daughter has given her Dynamic to her Mum,but Im still servicing it etc.
I have just bought another for a friend,same model and spec.

Both have the same problem...

When started from cold both cars idle,on automatic choke,at around 1000rpm and then drop to 750 rpm when it comes off choke.

On choke the engines both sound smooth and make no 'noises'.

Off choke they dont hunt or stall but theres a clanking type noise from the auxillary belt/timing belt area.

I have changed the auxillary belts and had the timing belts changed,

Whilst I was out today I came back to my car and found another parked next to it...so after a quick chat the new car was started and it was silky smooth..no noise.

Any ideas what it could be?
 
Junk from water dripping on/in the alternator?
Does it still make the same noise with the belt removed?

Remove it, spin the different tensioners, pulleys, bearings if any spin to freely or feel rough...replace.
 
Didnt know there was any tensione'rs on the alternator set up..thought the alternator itself is the tensioner...

One has a new tensioner,water pump and belt,the other just the tensioner and belt.

Both got new alternator belts..

Hmmmm....

Anyone know what the idle speed is?..
 
The alternator is physically moved side to side on a slide guide to change the tension of the alternator belt. . .

Step I would take to rule out alternator:
1) Make the car make the noises your worried about
2) Remove the alternator belt and see if the noise continues (just a matter of 3 bolts on the 8V engine to move alternator enough to get the bolt off)
Conclusion
If the noise reoccurs with the Alternator belt off then your alternator is not the cause of the problem.

Aside from this I'd recommend cleaning our the breather system the pipe as well as the box where the pipe joins into
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the replies..TBH I havent removed the alternator belt to test if the noise is the alternator itself..car dont live with me.
I will try and sort at the weekend.

Does ANYONE know what the off choke idle speed should be?
 
If it has air con,the alternator is fixed,and has a tensioner.If it has no air con,the alternator moves to tension the belt. Tick over when warm about 800 rpm.
 
Rite...the car came over to mine at the weekend..still making a noise on drivers side area..
Plugs removed and checked,(running issue) all a nice even colour showing a consistent spark/running ..Ht leads all clicked back into place.
Starts fine,engine smooth on choke till it drops to normal idle at around 800rpm then is sounds noisy..like a mechanical noise.
I think the car is smooth and if given enough rev's through the gears is relatively nippy..
Her Son thinks there's something wrong and consequently so does she...

Any ideas on the noise?.. Im trying not to get frustrated but Im slowly loosing it ...
 
I got a call saying the engine management light was coming on and off sporadically...
Went to my local indy garage and a snap on reader came up with 5 different codes.Some were obviously old as the faults they were related too were visibly ok..they were erased and didnt come back.
Two engine codes...P0300 AND P03100...
ignition faults and after Id changed number 1 HT lead the code was cleared and seems cured..
Must admit that I gave it some stick through the revs and she ran very nice indeed.Owner seems happy too.

Still clanks away on idle though..
 
Broken exhaust studs ?

When one of these is broken, you will hear a nice metal pinging every time the closest cylinder(s) exhausts.

Take the heat shields off and check all the studs, nuts are there and still tight.
Check for exhaust leaks between the head and manifold while you're there.
 
Broken exhaust studs! Not as bad as you may first think. Two studs broke in my head,after looking at all the options,like drilling the little bleeders out,I looked up on "The You Tube", simple, remove exhaust manifold,get mate round with MIG welder,weld on the snapped studs till the weld builds up and is big enough to grab with mole grips,the heat makes it easy to unscrew,and the head doesn't even get hot.Go to the pub to repay mate,win win all round.
 
Thought it was too good to be true..still got a miss-fire..

Not got it to the garage yet ( to have codes read) BUT as I have already changed the coil pack and leads ,with second hand ones,the plugs are a few weeks old, Im looking at new leads first and then potentially new coil pack.

Any recommendations on make?...
 
What is your idle RPMs on hot engine? I have Punto 1.4 8V Euro 5 (with variable valve timing) and by MES is my hot idle 695-705. It looks little bit low...? Can you confirm someone who has Euro 5 350A1000 engine with variator?
Because in MES I see "desired engine rpm" - but it's not stable value, but calculated and it also shows 700, 701 rpm...so it's also calculated from many sensors online...
 
Last edited:
What is your idle RPMs on hot engine? I have Punto 1.4 8V Euro 5 (with variable valve timing) and by MES is my hot idle 695-705. It looks little bit low...? Can you confirm someone who has Euro 5 350A1000 engine with variator?
Because in MES I see "desired engine rpm" - but it's not stable value, but calculated and it also shows 700, 701 rpm...so it's also calculated from many sensors online...

Unfortunatley I cant help you out..both cars are no longer 'mine' but I do still see them occasionaly..I will ask,but dont hold your breath.
 
IN this case I need exact values from someone's multiECUscan. And why am I asking? On hot idle I feel small vibrations in car chassis, seat and steering wheel. No sounds, but only vibrating. Car is 5 yeras old and maybe engine's silentblocks are little bit weak, but to make sure that it's caused by one of silentblocks I need to know exact hot idle speed value on other same car
 
Last edited:
Back
Top