Gidday Folks
New member, thanks.

engine repaired 18 months ago due to cam drive tension spring failure.
111k km on odo

has been running sweet as until a couple of days ago when no crank
noted no glow at key on and padlock symbol stays illuminated no matter how long key on.
central lock works from key fob

checked between neg battery post and engine < 0.5v
yet to check battery post to ecu housing
checked for power to solenoid (brown wire) during crank using bulb, no.
checked ignition switch 3 small wires one battery one ignition and one crank [brown/white] ok
checked all larger relays and linked between supply and load , no crank, did mange to get low and hi fan going.
black one nearest Lh guard and rear most [marked with red arrow see below] clicks on crank yet voltage and earth present and does not change on crank when measured with volt meter??

have d'loaded elearn from here, am I correct in my understanding that I must write a cd?
I have never done that and am not familiar with process , will phone a friend

would appreciate thoughts,
will measure between batt neg post and ecu housing today
will hold key closer to ignition barrel aerial
will look at underside of fuse and relay holder for water to trace brown start wire as owners manual useless, it lists fuse 35 as 30A start [term 50] yet no terminals in holder.
is anyone familiar with which relay is for starting ?

will also measure batt neg to chassis with headlight on

Hi, the starter relay is T18, on your picture it's the 2nd vertical red one (from bottom) over the 7.5A fuse. The F35 fuse can't be seen on your picture, should be located between the bottom 7.5A fuse and the first vertical red relay ...

Regarding eLearn, you have to "mount" the file: in W10, right click the ISO file andd select Mount in the option list, You will have then a virtual drive which contains the CD that can be run from there. You'll have to mount the ISO everytime you'll need to access eLearn (try the created icon, it might return an error message CD not found...)

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

thanks a lot Bernie for the info, appreciated.

battery at 5.1 v when I got it it today.
hooked up jumper leads
Central lock wouldn't work , removed key fob battery and measured at 3.1v no load, refit and now central locking working

padlock warning light on with key and stays on, no fuel pump [diesel]

checked between neg bat post and engine , body and ecu case , all less than 0.02 v with key and headlights on

only side lights working with key off headlights work with key on

held key fob close to key barrel aerial, no change still no crank

put car into reverse , got half a doz chirps similar to indicators chirp , that was new.

no crank

removed key and reinserted it and turned on fuel pump starts up padlock light goes out after 1 second and it cranks up like a politician, sweet as

so I try it a dozen times , it will only extinguish the padlock , fuel pump runs and crank and start if the key is inserted while the gear lever [manual trans] is in reverse.

once key inserted I can select neutral not a problem, it must have cleared immobilizer.

Lucky I fluked it selecting reverse.

now it shows a code [via obd connctor] [ p0087] yet to check that out [ past midnight here]

Any thoughts appreciated.
so if yours wont crank try reverse before inserting key

have found p0087 is fuel related
also p0087 is associated with a known recall software issues with ecu
might have been caused when battery was flat

Hi Donald, how the hell have you got the idea to put it into reverse ?? I just finished reading the immobilizer section of eLearn and haven't found anything related to reverse switch in the functionnal description. Maybe it's related to the 'normal' engine management: I guess it would not allow the starter motor IF the engine is already running, but again I don't see any linkage with the reverse switch ...

BRs, Bernie

Why did I try reverse, luck
Have since found out there is an intermittent no go with the rear indicators, the reverse lights don't work and it had previous temporary service in the rear lamps & trailer plug about a year ago.
The battery has been removed for a couple of days over the weekend and on trickle charge and re fitted [5 years old]. Probably could do with replacing as winter is almost here with first frosts last week.
On refitting it behaves normally , will now apparently extinguish padlock symbol & crank in any gear or neutral.
I'm wondering if there is a crook earth at the rear lights that might be upsetting the immobilizer. I'll take a looksee in a hour later today.

Re the elearn, I have win7 and on clicking on the iso file it tries to write a disk and I dont have any.

Thanks for helping out, appreciated.

Hi Donald,

those GPs are VERY sensitive to any sort of electrical malfunction such as earthing, weak battery, etc. Plus there a quite HUGE consumers in there, electric power steering being the worse. I'd suggest to replace your battery since it's already 5 years old and winter is coming... Measure the battery older, remove any plastic/rubber crap that could narrow the space available and get the largest battery that fits in.

Regarding the eLearn, either you burn a CD or install a third-party app; search for free win 7 iso mounter and you find dozens ...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

Gidday Bernie

I agree with your wise words about the battery.
the car now cranks in any gear, neutral clutch in or out.
It's frustrating not knowing why, but in the words of Kenny Rogers I got to know when to walk away and when to run

Donald, this may seem a silly question but have you had your key check to see if the chip is OK.
We don't charge customers for this as its 2 second job.
We put the key into a machine and when we press a button, we get the chip info or if the chip is damaged, we get no info.
The glass chips in Fords, Fiats and VAG group do sometimes break on very rare occasions

Gidday

Thanks for your offer to check the key.

Unfortunately I'm in New Zealand so not as easy as calling in on the way to the corner shops.
As your test appears as a go / no go, then the key would get a pass as it now working 100% of the time.