Technical Brakes bled... Now clutch pedal feels softer.

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Technical Brakes bled... Now clutch pedal feels softer.

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Hey guys I have a GP 1.4 2009 TJET.

Today I bled all my brakes and put in new fluid ( tetula dot 4).

I have tested my brakes and the pedal feels good and brakes feel good. Only thing is now the clutch pedal feels lighter ( I. E it is easier to push down to the floor). Is this normal I never even new they were linked or am.i being paranoid?

Thanks
 
Yes the fluid is linked,but unless you bleed the clutch,the brake fluid in the clutch system will be no different,so yes it's in your mind.
 
Just crossing my T's and dotting my i's. But done a video of pressing on the clutch pedal and a slight air escape hiss can be heard. Is this norm.

 
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How do the brakes feel? Bleed the clutch and then go for a drive, last time I did mine everything was a bit soft. Had a little air in the system and I went around again with the nipples only just open enough to let out fluid with good pedal pressure, perfect after that.

Cheers
 
How do the brakes feel? Bleed the clutch and then go for a drive, last time I did mine everything was a bit soft. Had a little air in the system and I went around again with the nipples only just open enough to let out fluid with good pedal pressure, perfect after that.

Cheers
The brakes feel great no problem there. The issue is with bleeding the cluth I have no idea where / how to do it?
 
Hi Emerson,

the bleeding procedure is the same as for the brakes: open-push-close-release; you will find the bleeder near the clutch bell.
There are two systems used: standard or co-axial actuator, but both have the bleeder outside :), here some pics...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 

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Hi Emerson,

the bleeding procedure is the same as for the brakes: open-push-close-release; you will find the bleeder near the clutch bell.
There are two systems used: standard or co-axial actuator, but both have the bleeder outside :), here some pics...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
Thanks for the pics berne could u just tell me from the pictures which number is the bleeder. I'll have a a look over weekend.but I've been under.ky car.so.many times I've never seen this park before, I'm hoping I've just been missing it and it's not some.hidden harder means due to it.being a tjet as these.engines are so.clustered
 
Also can anyone. Point out how much brake fluid needed to do. The clutch as I bought 1 litre of tetula but i only have about 100 -200ml left and don't want to rum out but don't want to get a whole new bottle for nothing
 
Here you go Emerson ...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 

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Can anyone answer this?,If your clutch and brakes use same fluid, if you car out a brake.fluid.change then why would you need to bleed clutch as all new fluid is in the car now anyway?? Thanks .
 
Two separate pumps/circuits sharing the same reservoir... Need to replace / bleed fluid in EACH one, that simple ;-)

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 
If you touched the clutch pedal while you were bleeding the brakes then you're likely to have pulled air into the clutch circuit as the reservoir take-off is higher for the clutch than the brake (as mentioned above - same reservoir but two separate outlets for brake and clutch)
 
Bare in mind it's probably in your head, because of the effort of pumping the brakes, and those feeling better.

The clutch is pretty sensible, and if enough air got in it to feel different, it will not disengage correctly, will be difficult to engage 1st gear and reverse.

No harm in bleeding it a little, the 100-200 ml should suffice.
 
Bare in mind it's probably in your head, because of the effort of pumping the brakes, and those feeling better.

The clutch is pretty sensible, and if enough air got in it to feel different, it will not disengage correctly, will be difficult to engage 1st gear and reverse.

No harm in bleeding it a little, the 100-200 ml should suffice.
Yes u do think it was in head as now I've left car and gone back to it it feel fine. I may bleed my clutch next time I'm under there. But it all feels fine . Like u said. I think I was pumping brakes so much. My head was with them and as soon as went on clutch I was like WOAH... Einstein theory of relativity is in there somewhere lol
 
If you touched the clutch pedal while you were bleeding the brakes then you're likely to have pulled air into the clutch circuit as the reservoir take-off is higher for the clutch than the brake (as mentioned above - same reservoir but two separate outlets for brake and clutch)
No I didn't touch the clutch. I do think it was all mind games with myself as things seem ok. I'll still keep an eye. Thanks for input though.
 
My Nefew had once his GP lost the clip that maintain the piping in place near the actuator: no more clutch and pedal on the carpet. A few tries later, when I arrived on site, we'd been extremely Lucky to find the clip on the parking lot underneath the car; pushed the pipe back-in, pinched a bit the clip and re-install... and clutch was back again !! No bleeding, just re-level the fluid in the reservoir (later) !

How comes ? My theory is that the clutch is WAY less sensitive to air bubles since it requires less pressure to release the plate spring (hence there is no assistance to it).

Any one can comment ??

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 
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Little bit later comment but yes, clutch uses much less pressure needed to push it, so some bubbles user cannot notice much. But brake fluid in clutch system (old or new) has nothing to da with "strenght" which is pressing on you leg.
Today I sprayed brake bleeders with WD and I successfuly released all 4. I need to change brake fluid, so I'm preparing on it. I'll use 1-person method with 0.5L Cola bottle with some fluid in it and transparent hose. From YouTube Chriss Fix it looks that it shoul work. Till today I always used only 2-persons method.
Is for Puntos some specific sequence for bleeding like cross, or rear first then front? Or it doesn't matter?
 
Effect is less pronounced (comparing to brakes), but it's there (due to air bubbles).
And it is affecting foot force needed and effective pedal stroke (therefore operation of the clutch), plus slave cylinder internal spring makes a difference too (when you swap the cylinder for new one or different brand).
You can drive (switch gears) with partially airlocked clutch, but it's not advisable of course.
And yes, you can drag air into the clutch system during brake bleeding, especially if you run below "MIN" mark and touch the clutch pedal.

As for brakes bleeding, DIY style, sequence doesn't matter much really (but common practice is to start closest to the ABS unit).
Automotive YouTubers should make such test, to "myth-bust" this. Build a brake system model with clear tubings, etc.
Also, you can completely ignore ABS system (pretend it "doesn't exist"). Just do classic "two person method".
Some people claim, that you should limit the pedal stroke (put something on the floor, under the pedal, piece of wood, etc.), to avoid pump seals damage (possible in old neglected cars, where some residue may collect in unused areas of the pump bore). That makes sense. Brake pedal, normally is never pushed to the floor.

One liter is spot-on to make full fluid change, brakes + clutch.

PS
Be careful with internet stars like "ChrisFix". He is a good example of "Dunning-Kruger effect" (Weaky-pedia).
He clearly doesn't know his limitations (skills and knowledge), yet gives "advices" to millions of clueless viewers.
 
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