Technical Where is EGR valve on 1.3 multijet 2007?

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Technical Where is EGR valve on 1.3 multijet 2007?

Can't actually photograph it, but looking at the engine from the front it's at the back ,on the right hand side below some other sensor. It's an absolute pig to get at , I gave up and took it to my local Fiat specialist.
They didn't really want to do it and told me to try someone who did chemical cleaning of it . In the end they did it as the fault on the engine looked as if it was the only thing wrong ( no clues on ECU scan ) , It took them over 2 hours to change it. It wasn't the fault,after all ; turned out to be a MAF sensor . It seems that it's extremely difficult to get any tools in the space. Best of luck !
 
Hola Julio,

almost impossible to take a picture of it, it's very well hiden behind/underneath the air manifold, on top of starter motor.
I did remove it 2 weeks ago for cleaning (was finally not needed), not really difficult to do after you did it once, if you know what I mean... And yeah, you need the EXACT tooling !

I'm still wondering why there isn't any post with the procedure, eLearn tells how to but the drawing style view aren't very clear.

Regards, Bernie
 
Hola Julio,

almost impossible to take a picture of it, it's very well hiden behind/underneath the air manifold, on top of starter motor.
I did remove it 2 weeks ago for cleaning (was finally not needed), not really difficult to do after you did it once, if you know what I mean... And yeah, you need the EXACT tooling !

I'm still wondering why there isn't any post with the procedure, eLearn tells how to but the drawing style view aren't very clear.

Regards, Bernie
Hi Bernie!
What did you exactly search at eLearn? I mean, keywords you used to find steps.

Another question, what kind of product do you recommend me to clean EGR valve? And do you feel better performance after clean it?

Thanks in advance!

Regards,
Julio
 
Hola Julio,

carburetor or brake cleaner works fine, but need some elbow oil as well. No performance improvment since it wasn't that bad, BUT the manifold intake was almost fully clogged with oil+carbone residue (heavy mud/sludge like) that build-up around the EGR "injector" pipe elbow... Much smoother engine after cleaning that crap !

Week-end project: have condamned the EGR (removed the solenoïd), but after a while of even smoother ride, the ECU poped the P0401 error (Insufficient EGR flow). So will put the solenoïd back and install a restrictor plate at EGR intake. I know Fiat has a part number for this kind of plate for other models, need to check for GPs ...

Regards, Bernie
 

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Hola Julio,

carburetor or brake cleaner works fine, but need some elbow oil as well. No performance improvment since it wasn't that bad, BUT the manifold intake was almost fully clogged with oil+carbone residue (heavy mud/sludge like) that build-up around the EGR "injector" pipe elbow... Much smoother engine after cleaning that crap !

Week-end project: have condamned the EGR (removed the solenoïd), but after a while of even smoother ride, the ECU poped the P0401 error (Insufficient EGR flow). So will put the solenoïd back and install a restrictor plate at EGR intake. I know Fiat has a part number for this kind of plate for other models, need to check for GPs ...

Regards, Bernie
Hi Bernie,
Thanks for you answer, like always hehehe

Are you going to block EGR?! My father and I were looking for that too, it Will improve a lot the engine performance! Fresh and clean air inside piston chambers, better combustion, better performance..
But I think you will need to remap ECU disabling EGR valve, because maybe it will give you same error at diagnosis, or a message at instrument cluster like "check EGR" or "check engine", but I am not sure

I am very interested in your project. My week-end project is to install Fog lights system like Fiat does. I mean, my car has not Fog lights by default, but yesterday I enabled fog switch replacing buttons at left of Steering wheel from a Fiat GP that it had front Fog lights. Then, with MultiECU Scan I made a proxy alignment enabling Fog, and guess what... My car had fuse and relay inside fuse box and they work when I press the Fog button, so now I have to connect fogs to the relay pins...

I will do a tutorial about it, no one made it before?

Regards,
Julio
 
Hi Julio,

I will not block the ERG since it would also need an ECU remap. The plan is to have a 1mm stainless-steel plate laser cut, with sloted holes and a little handle to install/remove it without the need to remove the EGR (just loosen it). There will be a small hole in the center to allow a little gas to get in the engine. Starting with 2mm, I would increase the diameter until the ECU stops throwing the P0401 error. File already drawn in DXF (AutoCad) format so ready to send to the workshop ...

Good that you had the fuse and relay installed for the fogs, kinda confirming my "one fits all" theory...

Regards, Bernie
 
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Hola Julio,

almost impossible to take a picture of it, it's very well hiden behind/underneath the air manifold, on top of starter motor.
I did remove it 2 weeks ago for cleaning (was finally not needed), not really difficult to do after you did it once, if you know what I mean... And yeah, you need the EXACT tooling !

I'm still wondering why there isn't any post with the procedure, eLearn tells how to but the drawing style view aren't very clear.

Regards, Bernie

Hi Bernie,

I'm wanting to do the same thing, take off and clean the EGT valve to hopefully resolve error code P0234 which is showing after my 1.3 goes into limp mode at 3000 revs.

You're the first person I've found that has done the 1.3mj so forgive me if I ask another couple of questions.

Did you put the car up on a ramp or is it possible to do this without?

Also you mention the correct tools, are those listed on the 1.9 egr guide sufficient?

Many thanks for any help you can offer!

Matt
 
Hi Matt,

you should be able to do it "from the top", no really need to go under the car. No need to remove the air manifold, unless it's too clogged with oil/carbon crap and you want to clean it, if so it has to be removed after the EGR ! I've put the car on ramps (candles) only to take the opportunity to inspect the bottom... The only thing you need to do down there is draining the coolant before removing water pipes from the heat exchanger. No really special tools required (well, torx and "E" prints) but you'll be very happy to have 1/4" ratchet, extension (short/mid/long), knee, etc. Torx bits (longs) may help aswell

Good luck and tell us how you managed it ! Regards, Bernie
 
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Many thanks Bernie! I've been putting it off for awhile now and just slowed my driving down to keep from activating the limp mode, it doesn't make for an exciting driving experience but its probably kept points off my license...

I'm not exactly handy when it comes to car stuff, I've only just recovered from trying to get the trim back in shape after replacing my aerial so this job will be a step up :D Given what you've said above I'll source a better socket set before commencing operations, have been getting by on a costco 40 quid toolkit that may not cut it :rolleyes:

Thanks again to you and everyone here that's provided such excellent resources. If I get all the bits back on in working order I'll post back with proof of life :slayer:
 
welcome Mate and feel free to ask if you'd ever face problem... (better ask before doing wrong...). Most of us are here to help ;-)

Regards, Bernie.

ps: I read the GP threads at least twice a day, and try to answer as much ...
 
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welcome Mate and feel free to ask if you'd ever face problem... (better ask before doing wrong...). Most of us are here to help ;-)

Regards, Bernie.

ps: I read the GP threads at least twice a day, and try to answer as much ...

Hello again!

I had a bit of a mare buying tools off ebay but I think I'm ready to go. Before I wreck my ride I had a couple of questions...

The elearn guide has a number of steps prefaced with OP does this stand for optional?

Op. 5530B10 BATTERY - R+R

Op. 5530B52 BATTERY SUPPORT/DRIP TRAY - R.R

Op. 1048A10 AIR FILTER ASSEMBLY - R.R.


In which case, did you remove battery and tray in order to get better access to the EGR?

Secondly, would you say it would be easier from underneath? Frankly from what I can see its in a pig of a position either way!

Finally, this video on a similar engine says you have to take the inlet manifold as well: Youtube How to remove clean replace EGR 1.3 cdti Astra Corsa Meriva Agila Swift Fiat z13dth z13dt z13dtj

Does that sound right?

Thanks once again for any advice you can offer. :worship:
 
Sorry I saw you'd answered the air manifold question in an earlier post, please ignore that one!

Oh and one final one. After I searched at length for a video that showed the process on a 1.3mj I finally found this:

Now aside from learning Turkish

At 4:36 he appears to remove both the EGR and the cooler? Is it required to remove so much or can I just get the EGR and leave the other stuff in place? Have to say watching that guy messing in there for so long is putting me off :D
 
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Merhaba Mattyo,

Tüm gerekli takımları bulduğunuza göre iyi (bu nihayetinde değil)!

Op. Operasyon anlamına gelir, bu sizi açıklanan prosedüre yönlendirir.
Pili ve tepsiyi çıkartmak, bağlantıyı kesmek / kaybetmek zorunda olduğunuz şeylere kolaylıkla erişmenizi sağlayacaktır.
Kesinlikle alttan değil easyer, ama en azından bir şey görmek istiyorum. Üstten çalışmak sanki kör olmanız gibidir ...
Emme manifoldunu çıkarmaya gerek yoktur, aslında temizlik için çıkartabilir, ancak EGR zaten çıkarıldıktan sonra yapmak daha da kolaylaşır.

Just kidding, thanks to google translate :) Here we go :


Hi Mattyo,

good that you found all the necessary tooling (not that much finally ) !

Op. stands for Operation, click this would re-direct you to the procedure described.
Removing the battery and its tray will ease access to things you'll have to disconnect/lose.
It is definitely NOT easyer from underneath, but you'd at least SEE something. Working from the top is just as if you were blind...
No need to remove the inlet manifold, actually you COULD remove it for cleaning but it is WAY MUCH easier to do once the EGR is already removed.

Good luck with your project !

Regards, Bernie
 
A little recreation: as I was on google translate I took my original text from English back to English, via Turkish, French, Dutch and Polish... (copy-paste each time), Here is the result, looks like a chinese Operator's Manual !!

Hello Mattyo,

You are free to find the best bands (not the last one)!

Op. Operating resources send the described procedure.
And remove the battery compartment, disconnect / something that you are losing easy access.
Certainly the land is not easy, but I would at least like to see. Works are to be blind so high ...
There is no need to remove the intake manifold, you can effectively remove it for cleaning, but EGR is even easier to do after all remove
.

Have a nice week-end, Bernie
 
Hi Mattyo,

forgot the heat exchanger thing: it is almost impossible to remove them separately ! And if it was, i wouldn't be the man to reassemble them "in situ" ... Have the all crap out in one piece ! Though removing the solenoid first will ease the job sgnificantly !

Regards, Bernie
 
Hi Bernie,

What can I say but thank you? I don't think I'd be attempting this if I'd not got your replies.

Naturally in the one Turkish word I actually know taught to me by a Turkish bar owner in Istanbul some year ago thus:

You are English yes? Well everyone knows the English love: Tea!
And maybe with this you take: Sugar?
And everybody has: a dream!

teşekkür ederim!
 
Finally I have just removed EGR plug from EGR, and now I am trying to create something to fake the message on display, I think that using a relay will fake system and keep it closed [emoji4]
_20170502_162128.JPG
 
Nahnah ! the ECU will eventually compare the actual air flow vs the expected one with exhaust gas coming-in from the EGR and will pop-ip a warning !!

BRs, Bernie
 
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