Technical Passenger Side (UK) drive shaft oil seal leak

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Technical Passenger Side (UK) drive shaft oil seal leak

souljasingh

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Hello guys, heard about the forum from a friend. I have recently got a fiat grande punto 2009 plate 1.4 16v and was changing the pads the other day and noticed that there was some gear oil leaking from the square plate that goes around the inner cv joint. I've had a research and I believe there is a seal behind this plate however i did notice there is a layer of silicone around the plate so maybe the plate had been off before and was warped so will need replacing.

I'm asking if i am correct in there being an oil seal behind the plate and what would be the process to change this and how would i take the inner cup out that goes into the gearbox as i know these are difficult to take out is there a recommend tool. And would i need to replace the plate in front of the seal as i believe that is where the oil is leaking from.

I found the picture attached below of is the part marked number 4 the seal and refering to the plate i mean number 16.

Thank you for all your help. Im probably going to attempt this thurs or fri and will be picking up a seal tomorrow and plate.

Thanks
Souljasingh
 

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There is a large O ring that sits in a groove in that plate, the seal fits in the plate. The shafts can be hard enough to pull out as there is a blind circlip on the end of the splined shaft that goes into the sun gears in the differential
 
thanks portland bill, looking at it im petty sure the oil is leaking from the plate and not the seal. I'll just change them both, are they any tips. Thankyou for your help.
 
thanks digger58 ill give it a go and let you kno how i get on. When i take the shaft out ill stick a pry bar either side and ill try get a friend to give me a hand. Is there any danger of me damaging anything inside by taking the cups out of the gearbox as if they have a circlip sounds like they are ment to stay in. Also if anything rotates in the gearbox while the cups are out will they be okay going back in or do they have to go back in the safe position. And will they just push back in with a bit of force
 
Hi,

you should not have to remove the internal cup to replace the O'ring seal and the plate, just remove the shaft entirely, then remove the plate and replace it (if warped or dammaged) together with the seal... Here is a picture from eLearn's procedures, as you can see they use a crow bar to remove the shaft...
Plus it doesn't matter which angular position you push it back in. In the meantime, clean and inspect the ruber boot, fill with fresh grease and use a new nut on the wheel side of the shaft !

Regards, Bernie.

If someone here helped You fix or understand your issue, hit the thanks button, it's free !!
 

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The plate is an important part of the preload on the bearings. This preload ensures correct meshing of the final drive gears, so if wrong will lead to diff noise and wear, quite likely breakage. Don't mess with it, unless you do it properly.

If the plate is removed to reseal where it mounts to the gearbox, that's fine. If the plate is replaced, you MUST carry out the procedure for measuring the preload and selecting correct shims if necessary.
See the attached file. Procedure starts at bottom of page 16. Very important.
 

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Very good point Nigel about the shims ! But I think I remember the procedure of measuring from the differential face to the output bearing, without plate involved ?? I will have a look @ eLearn and come back in the next minutes...

Regards, Bernie
 
Hi,

done the reading and confirm 100% what Nigel said: IF any of the flange or output bearing is replaced, the scrapper ring thickness HAVE TO be adapted to preload the bearing correctly.

BTW: I doubt the flange is warped, and be careful, there are TWO seals in there ! One O-ring for the flange and one V-lip (I guess) for the shaft itself, replace both !!

Regards, Bernie

Tired to type the thanks message, so giving up...
 

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No problem pulling driveshaft out you wont disturb anything when only one shaft is being done at a time, again assuming the seal carrier is not cracked etc, the pre load for the diff won't matter as you will just be removing it and putting it back. My advice is as follows, With wheel on ground remove centre cap and open nut on shaft, jack up and support car, remove wheel. clean threads on lower suspension ball joint, then remove it,Separate hub from wishbone, push drive back through hub, drain gearbox oil, using pry bar remove driveshaft, undo studs holding seal carrier and remove it, shims should stay in place, check O ring, note how far in the seal is, remove old seal and push new one in, I use a large socket and a vice. clean everything and replace. I may have left out one or 2 things but hope you get the drift. don't forget to strake the hub nut when tight.
 
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Mornin' !

when you'll refitt all don't forget the following; as you can see the torque is NOT that high, do NOT stand on the socket lever !!
Also stake the (new) nut the right way otherwise you won't be able to open it again ...

Regards, Bernie
 

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Hello guys. Thanks for all the replies, and your help ive got both seals today. Gonna be a nice job to get on with. Thanks again. The seal carrier isn't cracked so probably just a damaged or pinched O-ring.

Kind Regards
Souljasingh
 
If you are doing both shaft seals be careful that the sun gears don't turn in the diff, It is possible to put shafts in the wrong way and they won't engage in the gears. I would do one at a time to be sure.(y)
 
I believe He's just doing one side, anyway it's gonna be intersting to know the authopsy... My bet is about a pinched O-ring ...

Regards, Bernie
 
He said he got both seals, I thought maybe he was going to do both sides. I wonder was the O ring even there maybe it was just gasket sealer! Culd have deteriorated and split. Lets hope he posts the result.
 
Well , there is no such O-ring nor plate on the right side of the differential, just the fixed shaft bearing V-lip seal.
Regarding the left side, a bad V-lip seal would leak at shaft level; as it seems the silicon was there in a (very) poor attempt to stop the plate from leaking, I suspect the O-ring having been dammaged, or even missing as you said :)
Let's hope we'll know soon...

Regards, Bernie
 
Easy guys, sorry for the late reply. It was a pinched O-ring. I replaced that and the driveshaft seal and I think all is good now. The silicoe was everywhere, it was in the bolt holes too. I'm getting the car on the ramp tomorrow so I'll take a good look make sure theres no leaks. The driveshaft came out really easy with a pry bar. It took me a couple of hours to do the job. Thanks for all your help and guidance. Respect.
 
Hi Souljasingh,

always a pleasure to receive feedback ! Make us feel like being helpfull :)

Glad You could manage to fix it by yourself ! Keep on posting how it goes and watching the forum, you'll probably help someone else soon or later...

Regards, Bernie
 
Easy guys, sorry for the late reply. It was a pinched O-ring. I replaced that and the driveshaft seal and I think all is good now. The silicoe was everywhere, it was in the bolt holes too. I'm getting the car on the ramp tomorrow so I'll take a good look make sure theres no leaks. The driveshaft came out really easy with a pry bar. It took me a couple of hours to do the job. Thanks for all your help and guidance. Respect.

Hi, I need to do exactly the same with my 2009 GP. Do you have any part numbers for the seal and the 'o' ring please.
Cheers
 
What's your VIN (ZFA199xxxxxxxx) ?

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 
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