Dolphinberserk
New member
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- Dec 30, 2013
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Maybe others with a few kilometres on their manual GP have found a problem shifting, particularly into 1st gear. A few probable causes have been discussed on this forum and beyond but I have just gone through a few processes that might be helpful for anyone new to the problem.
1 Hydraulic clutch bleed.
The first issue seemed to be a very deep clutch point, so I went to adjust the clutch cable and found there wasn't one. There is (luckily) an hydraulic clutch that automatically adjusts itself - but only when there is no air in the lines. The clutch shares fluid with the brakes. First, bleed all the brakes at each wheel until you are rid of all the old fluid (general rule, rear left wheel first? I've forgotten, so google it). Then find the bleed nipple on top of the clutch slave cylinder. Stick a clear tube on it and stick the other end in a clear bottle on the ground under the car. On my 2008 1.3 JTD there was no nut on the nipple and I needed to release the attached hose and back it out 5mm and then fluid could flow freely out. I used a pressure bleeder to blow air into the brake fluid reservoir, compressing brake fluid through the lines. (You could use another method.) I found the best result came from an idea I got on a Porsche forum; I pushed down the clutch pedal with a piece of timber about 70cm long and held the clutch pedal down by sliding the driver seat forward to hold the other end of the wood. With the clutch master cylinder compressed there is one less hiding place for air bubbles, which can then be drain with the fluid. I ran through a whole 500ml bottle of DOT4 brake fluid to bless the clutch alone. Make sure to keep refilling the fluid reservoir so it never runs dry during the process. Make sure you rescued the hose (to close the bleed nipple) before releasing the clutch pedal. Doing it with the cliche compressed gave me a much more define clutch movement (than when I first bled the slave cylinder without the compressed clutch pedal).
1 Hydraulic clutch bleed.
The first issue seemed to be a very deep clutch point, so I went to adjust the clutch cable and found there wasn't one. There is (luckily) an hydraulic clutch that automatically adjusts itself - but only when there is no air in the lines. The clutch shares fluid with the brakes. First, bleed all the brakes at each wheel until you are rid of all the old fluid (general rule, rear left wheel first? I've forgotten, so google it). Then find the bleed nipple on top of the clutch slave cylinder. Stick a clear tube on it and stick the other end in a clear bottle on the ground under the car. On my 2008 1.3 JTD there was no nut on the nipple and I needed to release the attached hose and back it out 5mm and then fluid could flow freely out. I used a pressure bleeder to blow air into the brake fluid reservoir, compressing brake fluid through the lines. (You could use another method.) I found the best result came from an idea I got on a Porsche forum; I pushed down the clutch pedal with a piece of timber about 70cm long and held the clutch pedal down by sliding the driver seat forward to hold the other end of the wood. With the clutch master cylinder compressed there is one less hiding place for air bubbles, which can then be drain with the fluid. I ran through a whole 500ml bottle of DOT4 brake fluid to bless the clutch alone. Make sure to keep refilling the fluid reservoir so it never runs dry during the process. Make sure you rescued the hose (to close the bleed nipple) before releasing the clutch pedal. Doing it with the cliche compressed gave me a much more define clutch movement (than when I first bled the slave cylinder without the compressed clutch pedal).
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