Technical My car starts, but dies

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Technical My car starts, but dies

The Starfish

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Hi folks.

I have had a problem with my car for the last to weeks, that it resist to start.

Firstly after the problem ocured, I got it jumpstarted and took the car, a 1,3 multijet 75 HP for a long drive. Two days later and the car stops again. I got ny battery tested, and residents to get it changed, because it was about to die, and the car starts for a little week. Now it resist to start again.

By this, I mean that it starts, but the RPM wont pass 1000 Rounds per minutes, and it faids out.

I had desided to change The dieselfilter but wanted to hear if someone has had some experience with this problem, and would guide me to do something else first?

I am no mecanic, but like to fix smal teknical issies my self
;-)

Looking forward to your tips, and guide :-D
 
When I had a similar problem it was my egr valve. Does it not even build revs when you push on the accelerator? Mine just refused to build revs. New egr about £60.
 
Thanks for Four tip regarding the battery :-D

Regarding the temprature, it is about one or two minus the last week pr so..
 
Thanks for Four tip regarding the battery :-D

Regarding the temprature, it is about one or two minus the last week pr so..

If the battery is flat once charged:

measure the voltage with the engine stopped it should be about 12v dc next start the car the voltage should now read about 14v dc this should show the alternator (generator) is working....

(you can do a more in depth test but need a special DC clamp amp meter to do that) usually if its shoving out 14v +/- a bit its normally ok....)


Do you have a friendly mechanic who has a battery load tester?

380025_1.jpg



should be able to test the battery to see if it is retaining its charge properly a simple voltage check does not show battery health
 
Re: Re: My car starts, but dies

If the battery is flat once charged:

measure the voltage with the engine stopped it should be about 12v dc next start the car the voltage should now read about 14v dc this should show the alternator (generator) is working....

(you can do a more in depth test but need a special DC clamp amp meter to do that) usually if its shoving out 14v +/- a bit its normally ok....)


Do you have a friendly mechanic who has a battery load tester?

380025_1.jpg



should be able to test the battery to see if it is retaining its charge properly a simple voltage check does not show battery health

Thanks. The man who changed my battery, tested The charging of the battery, and he confirmed that it is working as it should. So I would be a bit surprised if the battery is creating the problem.

I have a mecanic friend who is suspecting the dieselfilter, and I am fresh on changing this ;-)

Anyboddy hei know how often this should be replaced?
 
Exhaust gas Recirculation Valve


If this issue only started after the flat battery i doubt that its the issue...

Put the battery on charge again and see if the car behaves for a short time after....

Is it very cold over in Denmark at the moment?

Hi Friends.. So now I have changed the Fuelfilter, and done it after a Guide here on the forum, and the car behaves the same way. The new filter seem to be corectly connected anyway ;)

What do I do then? Could it be the pump that pups in the diesel that is EOL? or should I go for the EGR valve? Or do I need a car mecanic educated person to take over??

Looking forward to hear your point of view :)
 
Hi Friends.. So now I have changed the Fuelfilter, and done it after a Guide here on the forum, and the car behaves the same way. The new filter seem to be corectly connected anyway ;)

What do I do then? Could it be the pump that pups in the diesel that is EOL? or should I go for the EGR valve? Or do I need a car mecanic educated person to take over??

Looking forward to hear your point of view :)


hi,
a new Battery is a Relatively inexpensive item,

cheaper than paying a mechanic to diagnose several different potential faults,
unless the battery is less that 3 years old - replace it.!.

to test the alternator,
put a Voltage Meter on the 2 battery terminals - you Should get a reading of 12.0V - 13.0 V, start the engine then test the battery again ( with the engine running) it should now read 14+V,
if it is above 13V then the alternator is putting in some power,

cold weather is the worst thing for car batteries,
unless the alternator is obviously faulty ! - replace the battery 1st, and see what then happens to the cars performance,
good luck,
Charlie
i
 
Last edited:
hi,
a new Battery is a Relatively inexpensive item,

cheaper than paying a mechanic to diagnose several different potential faults,
unless the battery is less that 3 years old - replace it.!.

to test the alternator,
put a Voltage Meter on the 2 battery terminals - you Should get a reading of 12.0V - 13.0 V, start the engine then test the battery again ( with the engine running) it should now read 14+V,
if it is above 13V then the alternator is putting in some power,

cold weather is the worst thing for car batteries,
unless the alternator is obviously faulty ! - replace the battery 1st, and see what then happens to the cars performance,
good luck,
Charlie
i

Hi Charlie.. Thanks for your fast reply. I have changed the Battery about a fortnight ago, to a strong Winterbattery - as the person testing it, said that it was about EOL (end of lifte) and that if i intended to go to Norway skiing, it could be nice to have a good bateri when it turns 20 - 30 minus.

I am from Norway, living in Copenhagen so I thought that was a good idea. So I vould be surpriced if it a battery problem.. But I am not a big one on enginering ;)

All the best
Bjørn Harald
 
Re: Re: My car starts, but dies

When I had a similar problem it was my egr valve. Does it not even build revs when you push on the accelerator? Mine just refused to build revs. New egr about £60.

Then my GP is going again :-D It was the EGR that was blocking for The fun, also the sparkplugs was EOL :-o

Well.. Nice to have the car running again :-D
 
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