We've had the timing belt changed today, along with the oil leak fixed, which turned out to be the blanking cover for the second cam next to the cam pulley.
Anyway, I was there as the guy was putting the finishing touches to the job.
The car started up as usual, he left it to idle, and after about 30 seconds, it did an almighty spaz. The revs dropped, the car almost cut out, then it picked up and idled as normal.
The car drives as it normally does with no irratic running, but the "Check Engine" message is flashing with the ECM light on.
He reset it with his diagnostic tester, but it's still on.
I'm going to take it for a 50 mile commute tomorrow, to see if it clears. He's suggested we take it back if it's still on after the weekend, but any thoughts.

What fault code did it give before resetting it? Why did he just reset it

TYpically I wasn't there when he reset it, so I don't know.
I put my code reader on it when I got home but it doesn't work on this car.
I've just done 30 miles this morning and it's still on, so if it's still on when I get home this afternoon, I'll ask him to give me the code and report back.

I guess it can only be something that may have been disturbed during in the belt change.

did he use the correct locking tools and cary out a phelonic (spl) wheel re learn after doing the belt?

Phonic, Andy.

OP- I can't believe he just dismissed an error code so soon after doing a critical job and sent you on the way with a "see what happens". Best case scenario is that it's just a false "generic misfire" error caused by not carrying out the phonic wheel learn (although this tends to show up at about 3000 rpm), worst case is an issue which is causing damage which you can't feel.

He had all the locking tools.
Whats a Phonic wheel learn ?

I sort of found some info on this which suggested getting the engine warm then taking the revs up to 6k.
Well I tried this at lunch time, but still no joy.
And incidentally it will only rev to 5k ??? WTF

bet the timing is out

the relearn reset the ecu to allow it to learn the signals from the cam/ crank position sensors as the car ecu compensates due tothe old belt stretching and wearing

I'm going back after work to see if he can or did reset the ECU self Adaptive Parameters, then try the learn thing again.
Failing that, from what i've read, then the timing is probably out.

Andy Monty said:

bet the timing is out

the relearn reset the ecu to allow it to learn the signals from the cam/ crank position sensors as the car ecu compensates due tothe old belt stretching and wearing

Click to expand...

You learn something new every day.

Just a thought, the above would suggest that the ecu might be able to predict a cam belt failure or at least suggest a replacement when a certain level of stretch/wear has been reached.

jameshobiecat said:

Just a thought, the above would suggest that the ecu might be able to predict a cam belt failure or at least suggest a replacement when a certain level of stretch/wear has been reached.

Click to expand...

Nope as a minor stretch or wear shouldn't cause the timing to be out until its goodnight vienna.

P0016, crankshaft position Bank 1.
He reset it again, and it revved beyond 5k this time, but after about 30 seconds the light came back on.
He's asked for me to take it back up in the morning.

Incidentallly, we both agreed that the light probably came on when it did it's spaz, but we never noticed, and was probably the ECU saying "Hold on a minute, somethings changed"

Sounds like they probably damaged the sensor when changing the belt.

Google p0016, and it would indicate that the timing is out.
Lets hope thats all it is...


by a tooth either way !!!

keat63 said:

Google p0016, and it would indicate that the timing is out.
Lets hope thats all it is...


by a tooth either way !!!

Click to expand...

or the relearn needs doing....... car thinks its out its hard to get the belt on wrong if you lock it out correctly...

It's sorted.
It was the timing slightly out.
Took him about 20 minutes to recify.

keat63 said:

It's sorted.
It was the timing slightly out.
Took him about 20 minutes to recify.

Click to expand...

Wow. 20mins to remove the cambelt covers, lock the crank and camshaft with the tools after using the two rods down the spark plug holes to align all 4 pistons halfway down the bores, detension the belt, slacken the cam sprocket, refit the belt and tension, then re-tighten the cam sprocket in its position to ensure the belt is evenly tensioned, remove all locking tools and refit all covers? Then reset the parameters and carry out the phonic wheel learn?

How much did he charge for labour to do the original job, which involves all the above to do the job correctly? Or did he just slacken the belt and manually turn the cam pulley one tooth?

D4nny8oy said:

after using the two rods down the spark plug holes to align all 4 pistons halfway down the bores,

Click to expand...

which cylinders do you drop the rods in Danny and do you align them on the descent or assent? (might as well add it to my guide in case someone has a snapped belt and needs to reference the piston strokes as you get a 2 turns of the crank shaft to one of the cam )

He charged me £145, for timing belt, Camshaft Oil Seal, Crankshaft Oil Seal, and the second Cam Shaft blanking cover O ring.
Parts cost £65, labour was £80.00.

He's a local one man band operating out of his own garage at home.
He comes highly recommended by loads of people in our village.

I'm quite pleased with that.