beany_bot said:

Lol, are you the kind of person that disconnect the negative lead from the battey and adorns safety specs before cleaning out the ashtray??

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Don't be stupid. Sod H+S most of the time I say, as its mainly over kill, but I'd hate to be the person to write off a car when jumping it through frying the rather costly electrical components

Most Easterly Pandas said:

Don't be stupid. Sod H+S most of the time I say, as its mainly over kill, but I'd hate to be the person to write off a car when jumping it through frying the rather costly electrical components

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How? the batteries would be in parrallel not series!

(thats still 12v not 24v)

Because of surges.... you can't jump cars the old fashioned battery to battery way anymore without risk of damage.

Positive to positive on the battery - negative on booster battery to chassis on dead car.

The only sensible way

StuartH said:

Because of surges.... you can't jump cars the old fashioned battery to battery way anymore without risk of damage.

Positive to positive on the battery - negative on booster battery to chassis on dead car.

The only sensible way

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Really? I'll believe it if someone can prove it, the connection method you describe makes absolutely NO difference, the -ve post is grounded anyway!

I say BS TBH...

Ffoxy said:

Really? I'll believe it if someone can prove it, the connection method you describe makes absolutely NO difference, the -ve post is grounded anyway!

I say BS TBH...

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TBF the above post isn't anything to do with serge protection its more to do with lessening the risk of explosion of the battery when disconnecting the jump leads...



idea being that you remove the negative lead on the chassis or engine block first (which is usually away from the battery) therefore reducing the (small) chance of any hydrogen gas been generated as the battery is charging via the alternator been ignited by the spark from the jump lead been disconnected

Andy Monty said:

TBF the above post isn't anything to do with serge protection its more to do with lessening the risk of explosion of the battery when disconnecting the jump leads...

idea being that you remove the negative lead on the chassis or engine block first (which is usually away from the battery) therefore reducing the (small) chance of any hydrogen gas been generated as the battery is charging via the alternator been ignited by the spark from the jump lead been disconnected

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Post 21 was about "frying the rather costly electrical components"....

Yes Mike Salt gave a similar explanation which I totally accept, but these things should always be done with care and proper risk assessment, I have yet to have a disaster as described TBH.

Plus of course jumping the battery that way will eliminate a dodgy -ve ground wire.

Is the clicking coming from the starter motor?? Becuase i have had a similar problem however the clicking is a constant clciking coming from a relay in the fuse box?
Ben

It sounds more like a starter motor problem. It's either the starter is faulty (which I hardly believe for a 2 yr old car) or there's a problem with the battery power. To quickly diagnose the problem, simply switch the engine on (but don't start it), and turn the screen wipers on. If they move at a normal pace, then the battery is ok and you can start worrying about your starter motor, but if the wipers move slower than normal or they don't move at all, your battery has got a problem.

Ffoxy said:

How? the batteries would be in parrallel not series!

(thats still 12v not 24v)

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Surging is created but all components that create power, charging circuits will be designed to limit this to a safe level, but in the event of the donor vehicle having higher surge tolerances/limits it is possible that over surges will be transfered to the dead vehicle and cause damage to ecu etc.

StuartH said:

Because of surges.... you can't jump cars the old fashioned battery to battery way anymore without risk of damage.

Positive to positive on the battery - negative on booster battery to chassis on dead car.

The only sensible way

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Thats not to do with surging, but more with what Andy has mentioned above.

I agree with your idea Ffoxy, get some jump leads in there and see if that'll fire it up... What happens when you turn the key in the ignition? Does the engine turn over?

Has this been bloody well resolved yet!?!?!?

Ah, bless. Can't you sleep?

temp gauge prob could be ecu, rarely reported but apprently does happen. mine had a reset then a new ecu, new coolant pipes and tank. problem solved......most of the time anyway lol