Sway-bar (anti-roll bar) links and/or bushings DIY replacement is easy.
If you will do rubber bushings, lift the whole front up, both wheels.
Undo the drop-link top nut. Impact wrench is a good thing. But there's no space around the bottom end of the link. So you'll be doing it manually anyway...
There is some tension in the system. Use a crowbar/prybar to remove old and later install brand new links.
Low quality joints can fail within 1 year or so. Rubber boots are disintegrating easily. Plus, there's not enough grease inside such parts (any ball joints or strut bearings/mounts) these days. Consider adding more grease to the new parts. Seriously.
Brand new joints are stiff, hard to move by hand. Damaged ones are loose and noisy (muted/muffled rumbling) while driving on slightly uneven/bumpy road (cobblestone). Animated GIF (click if static) of the bad ball joint (any - in suspension, steering).
Note there are small differences in drop-links. Nut sizes and flats (or not): both can be 16 or 17 mm. Internal hex should be always 5 mm.
Now, swaybar bushings. You can see the threads sticking out from the retainer. Spray them with some penetrant oil.
Front frame has 2 holes. There are 13 mm hex bolts inside. You need extra long socket or regular/standard one + extension.
Parts can be "seized" a bit. Use some screwdriver to pry, to separate retainer from rubber etc. Clean and paint those metal parts if you care (corrosion). Rubber bushing and swaybar contact areas should be clean and dry.
Parts from different manufacturers will not be exactly the same. For example cuts are done in different spots. Does it matter, I don't know (which one is "better")... Note, that some parts like that will have no cut (you must do it yourself, or there is a way to install such bushing without splitting, go figure).
You should be able to install first bushing and retainer bare hands, just hold it with one hand and install (or at least start) 2 bolts. Then (at the other end, second bushing) you will need a prybar again. Pay attention on how the rubber is seated during assembly. Help it a bit (push it, poke it with screwdriver) if necessary.
If you will do rubber bushings, lift the whole front up, both wheels.
Undo the drop-link top nut. Impact wrench is a good thing. But there's no space around the bottom end of the link. So you'll be doing it manually anyway...
There is some tension in the system. Use a crowbar/prybar to remove old and later install brand new links.
Low quality joints can fail within 1 year or so. Rubber boots are disintegrating easily. Plus, there's not enough grease inside such parts (any ball joints or strut bearings/mounts) these days. Consider adding more grease to the new parts. Seriously.
Brand new joints are stiff, hard to move by hand. Damaged ones are loose and noisy (muted/muffled rumbling) while driving on slightly uneven/bumpy road (cobblestone). Animated GIF (click if static) of the bad ball joint (any - in suspension, steering).
Note there are small differences in drop-links. Nut sizes and flats (or not): both can be 16 or 17 mm. Internal hex should be always 5 mm.
Now, swaybar bushings. You can see the threads sticking out from the retainer. Spray them with some penetrant oil.
Front frame has 2 holes. There are 13 mm hex bolts inside. You need extra long socket or regular/standard one + extension.
Parts can be "seized" a bit. Use some screwdriver to pry, to separate retainer from rubber etc. Clean and paint those metal parts if you care (corrosion). Rubber bushing and swaybar contact areas should be clean and dry.
Parts from different manufacturers will not be exactly the same. For example cuts are done in different spots. Does it matter, I don't know (which one is "better")... Note, that some parts like that will have no cut (you must do it yourself, or there is a way to install such bushing without splitting, go figure).
You should be able to install first bushing and retainer bare hands, just hold it with one hand and install (or at least start) 2 bolts. Then (at the other end, second bushing) you will need a prybar again. Pay attention on how the rubber is seated during assembly. Help it a bit (push it, poke it with screwdriver) if necessary.
