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Front disc change
Andy Monty
28-02-2011
<font color="red">This is intended as a guide only if your in any doubt over you ability to do this consult a qualified mechanic as your brakes are rather important</font><br />
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bit of an add on to this guide as im not going over the intimate details of pad removal again for the
Old 05-10-2013   #15
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Re: Front disc change

You got an s2 gp or a EVO? They are e-torx
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Old 28-06-2014   #16
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Re: Front disc change

it seems that perhaps the caliper fixing bolts have torx heads. Anyone know what size please ,as don't really want to buy a whole tool kit when I ciuld just get a socket
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Old 28-06-2014   #17
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Re: Front disc change

Not very good at using this site. As just found your reply to mylast year's query. The car is just a 90hp diesel dualogic eleganza





hp
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Old 28-12-2015   #18
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Re: Front disc change

As an old codger taught in the days when torque was measured in lbs/feet, does the torque setting you give of 9.9/11.0(daNm) translate to 9 Newton Metres?
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Old 23-05-2016   #19
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Re: Front disc change

Hey, kinda unrelated but I managed to snap the alignment bolts that hold the discs in alignment (don't ask how, it's dumb). With a bit of difficulty I managed to align both the discs and wheels and put the wheels on. Does anyone know if the alignment bolts serve any strength purpose of just for the purpose of alignment. I've been driving my car a while and my brakes are all working fine since the wheel bolts hold on the discs and the wheels. Anyone know if this is still safe?
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Old 23-05-2016   #20
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Re: Front disc change

It seems to me like the bolts are only for alignment to make the wheels easier to put on. The wheel bolts also hold them in alignment and as far as I can tell provide the strength to hold everything together. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 14-07-2016   #21
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Talking Re: Front disc change

19mm caliper across flat carrier bolts Torque 9.9 11.0 (daNm)
13mm across flats caliper bolts torque to 2.7 3.3 (daNm)
T30 torx bolts torque 0.9 1.4 (daNm)


Great guide. Can anyone try to explain to me how you work out the torque settings. rather new to al this and i was under the impression it was simply someone told you the amount so e.g 120Nm for locking wheel nuts. But this 9.9 11.0??? completely lost

So to sum up how do i work out the actual specific Nm to set my torque wrench too.

thanks alot guys
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Old 22-04-2018   #22
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Fairly nice guide, but...

1. Car is equipped with ABS, internal valves (solenoid valves) are sensitive to contamination (number one cause of problems in any hydraulic system). So you should NOT push back old dirty brake fluid back into reservoir. Don't worry, most of the time (9 out of 10) nothing bad will happen if you do so (but, "just in case", you have been warned).
Link: my cardone com/techdocs/PT%2012-0001.pdf

2. "Cleaning" the hub. Never use any abrasives, unless you really know what you're doing (you are skilled tradesman, technician, machinist or so). Using abrasives is NOT a "cleaning", it is machining/grinding, you are removing good material. You will mess up geometry, and possibly generate runout. Steel brush is enough to prepare surface. Fun fact: rust itself can be classified as an abrasive material (so you don't have to add another one to the process).

3. "Protecting" hub-disc interface with copper grease. Against what? Chemistry crash-course: there is possibility of electrochemical/galvanic corrosion (when copper grease oil base will eventually dry out). Plus, there is too much of it!
In theory, disc should be installed on dry, clean hub. When wheels are bolted, there should be fair amount of friction between hub, disc, and wheel (rim) - so these 3 elements will act as "one". Adding grease will disturb this "connection" in events like emergency braking.
If you want to prevent seizing, use small amount (thin layer/film) of good "ceramic" (non-metallic, chemically inert) anti-seize (preferred "food-grade"). Or spray some high temperature paint. It will seal (against moisture) and NOT lubricate very well (like copper grease will do).

4. Too much grease on the back of the pads (mostly making mess, nothing more).
Any visible excess of grease (when you look at brake system, after job is done) should be cleaned (if not, it will collect/attract dirt easily). Don't be a "grease monkey".

5. DecaNewtonMeters. Ever heard of "prefixes"? Google/Wiki "metric prefix".
Link: en wikipedia org/wiki/Metric_prefix
And someone is "lost" when given a range (sign "") of torque? What's so "hard" about it? Give me a...brake.

6. Some cars, for unknown reason, can have different bolts, for example, instead of 19 mm hex, there will be E16 one (External, "inverted" torx). Check before you start the job.

7. What about guide (slider) pins? Not mentioned (or I missed it). See attachment. Clean and lubricate (mind which is which, top/bottom).

8. If possible, help yourself and use some penetrating oil on all bolts, day or two before the job. Most of such products actually work IF given enough time (from hours to days) to "soak".

9. Consider using thread locker (soft one), mostly to seal the threads (for future repairs).

10. Small things, big trouble. Disc retaining bolts, small ones (T30) can be stripped, and may require drilling out completely. Then you will be forced to tap (or "chase") hub holes (M6 thread). Prepare yourself (good, sharp tap). If we talk about lubrication, those two bolts are the only parts, that can be (must be) literally covered with grease (high-temperature anti-seize) completely, to prevent future problems. On all other parts, be very moderate with lubrication.
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Last edited by GrandePunto PL; 22-04-2018 at 20:09. Reason: Example links. Alternative bolts info. Guide pins notice.
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