Did you even try what was suggested to you at Cupar?

Andi, theres no need to apologise, again as mark said, it can be frustrating. And again the cars ive had over the years (and ive had a few) that I have driven through floodwaters up over the bonnet, not one alternator has given up, too tight a belt will do it, as will an underlying issue that we were ALL trying to help you diagnose, but ultimately its up to you whether you throw money at it.

still no volt readings come back? absolouptly no way to help you tillt hey come back.

personally i dont think its the install at all. but its the first thing to check (and the easiest).

but we still need all the things i asked for earlier twice. before we (or i) can help any further.

i understand your getting it replaced. fine. it needs done at the end of the day.! but please. run the volt tests. and then run them again after the new alt.

CHECK FOR DIFFERENCES. if there are no differences afterwards..... its not fixed.

Steve
Martyn Shaw ran a Diagnostics on Dubster to check for any underlying problems.
2 Faults were found, but that was due to the wire for the Steering Wheel Controls to the CD Player being removed due to my CD Player being different. He ran a Voltage test Battery was showing about 13V with the engine on.
We didn't test with lights on, but we removed the fuse for the Sound System & it was suggested to see how it goes for a while before putting the fuse back in.

Part of the reason for not testing with lights & other electrical components on was fear that the Alternator would die.

Must say a thank you to John gengis Martyn Shaw m5haw & Craig Johno933 for their help & knowledge on Sunday.

Dubster went into Arnold Clark, got the new Alternator & Belt fitted with 2 year Guarantee, going back on Monday to have the under tray fitted, as they forgot to order it.

Dubster has had the under tray system fitted at some point in the past as there was 1 piece of it hanging off when I bought him.

I will try & get a Multi Meter so I can do some voltage tests & post them up on here.

ok, leterally am just tring to save you money.

running with nothing on you need around 13.6v as im sure you know. and when off 11.9ish

just out of interest what were the faults? im just wondering how two faults came from the one thing

Have to say, i'm a little surprised that the steering wheel control came up as a fault? let alone 2?

when the controls are disconnected, they are dead unless reconnected, no reason they should come up as a fault IMO.

Clock34 said:

ok, leterally am just tring to save you money.

running with nothing on you need around 13.6v as im sure you know. and when off 11.9ish

just out of interest what were the faults? im just wondering how two faults came from the one thing

Click to expand...

Mrcento said:

Have to say, i'm a little surprised that the steering wheel control came up as a fault? let alone 2?

when the controls are disconnected, they are dead unless reconnected, no reason they should come up as a fault IMO.

Click to expand...

I can't remember exactly what the faults were that were showing up m5haw you can probably remember what the faults were.

The faults were related to can although the steering wheel controls disconnected from the original head unit the CAN network has registered a fault as it measure the resistance when a it leaves the said ecu and reaches said component this inturn sends a message back to the ECU now this can cause problems as it then back feeds the voltage causing a fault on the electrical side of the ecu not the CAN side as can is only for messages sent in binary code hence single filament bulbs that are stop and tail hope this helps if you want to know about CAN and how it works a can lol bore you to tears

About half of that post went over my head :wacko:

Go to http://www.hella.com/techworld register on there then go to hella online training and look for the 3h training module control area networks happy days