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Old 02-12-2011   #1
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Changing Brake Pads

Well, finally done a bit of work to the MK2.

The brakes had been inneffective and ultimately failed just before Perth. So today was spent renewing the front pads. Massive improvement now

What you'll need


1 x Set new Brake Pads
1 x Hammer
1 x set pliers/hens legs/similar
1 x G Clamp

WD40
Copper Grease

So lets get started!

First of all, and I know this will sound obvious, make sure the car is secure. Slacken off the wheel bolts then jack the car up and secure with axle stands.

With the wheel removed, look to the bottom of the brake caliper and you will find a securing bar - before removing this youll need to remove the securing clip located on the inner end of the bar. Put this somewhere safe.

If your car is anything like mine, you'll need to be generous with the WD40 on the securing bar. Apply carefully and consider retreating for a cup of tea while the WD works its magic.

Once this is ready, tap the bar with a hammer to release. This may take a bit of persuasion, but it will eventually free.

With this done, you should be able to pivot the caliper upwards. Then remove the old pads.

Refitting is more or less reversal of the above.

Offer up the new pads to the caliper, applying a gentle coasting of copper grease on the backing plate of the pads before you do so. You'll need to push the pitston back in using a G clamp or similar. It's worth remembering to open the brake fluid resevoir cap before doing this.

With the new pads in place pivot the caliper back down. Secure the locking bar into position, and remembering the securing pin too.

Refit the wheels and release the car off the jack & axel stands.

Reward with another cup of tea. Remember to bed the brakes in gently, they will be a bit weird for the first hundred miles so be gentle with them!

Hope this is of help to someone - sorry there are no pics at the moment, time (and daylight) were well and truly against us!

Cheers,
Martyn
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Old 04-12-2011   #2
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ive got a problem , I would not suggest to push the piston back on the caliper with out opening the blead nipple , becasue if you do it to hard you can damage your seals in your master cylinder
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Old 04-12-2011   #3
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Quote Originally Posted by jatkinson
ive got a problem , I would not suggest to push the piston back on the caliper with out opening the blead nipple , becasue if you do it to hard you can damage your seals in your master cylinder
Quite happy to ammend if that's the case.

Just as a disclaimer, and as I think is pretty clear already, this is my first guide and my first foray into actual repairs. So yeh, happy to revise what I did wrote if it needs altering.
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Old 04-12-2011   #4
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Quote Originally Posted by jatkinson
ive got a problem , I would not suggest to push the piston back on the caliper with out opening the blead nipple , becasue if you do it to hard you can damage your seals in your master cylinder
opening the bleed nipple on a pad change can cause other problems though

not done that on any car i've had, and i've yet to damage any master cylinder
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Old 04-12-2011   #5
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i havnt damaged any , but when i was working in agarage and doing ti every day , i got told i had to , becasue i could damage the seals ect , and thought i should just repeate it
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Old 04-12-2011   #6
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Quote Originally Posted by jatkinson
i havnt damaged any , but when i was working in agarage and doing ti every day , i got told i had to , becasue i could damage the seals ect , and thought i should just repeate it
i agree, worth putting out there but at the same time textbook isn't always required to do a job well and safely
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Old 04-12-2011   #7
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I didn't need to open the Bleed Nipple on my car's when I've changed the brake pads.
Although I've only changed the brakes on 3 of the 4cars I've had, didn't use the Citroen enough to change the brake pads.
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