My brava has a temp problem,the gauge will sit at normal for a wile then jump up to the red,but the engine is normal temp.
And the fan wont cut in when it should but it is working.
Any ideas what the prob is or what needs replaceing.
HELP.

It might need bleeding???

Here is a quote from another post:

"regarding the temp gauge, when it does that give it a tap above where it is on the dash and it will go back to normal. its a dodgy connection/bad connection on the back of the dials I believe and it will sort it.
A few ppl have had this problem"

If you use the search function and search by "match", you'll find plenty of info on the subject of dodgy temp guages.

Ye i read that article,but i dont think thats my problem cause my fan wont cut in by itself when sitting in traffic.

But when bypased the fan works fine,would being dodgy at the back of the dash cause these symtoms?

Any help or advice would be great.

it will most likely be a dodgy switch. on the bottom left of the radiator

Can anyone elabirate on this as i need to get sortted as its been a while,and i am going to get the tracking set and they need the engine running while doing it and it would cook it.

Cheers Scotty

Ok. I have just had this problem, Like you I tried the fan direct, works fine. Bled the system, The fault on mine turne out to be a blown Fuse Under the bonnet Near the battery on the bulkhead. If you find it is the switch, I have a brand new one that i got from shop 4 parts

Hi Axel are you talking about the fuse box under the bonnet up at the passenger side bulk head?
If so can you tell me what fuse it was? there is a small 30amp one right in front of the rest of them,and rest behind it are all big fuses.
Witch one was it?

Cheers scotty.

It was the large 30 amp fuse

Is it pos for you to show a pic of it in situ,and what switch is it you were taliking about?

Cheers Scotty

http://www.shop4parts.co.uk/index.cfm?action=catalogue.list
this is the switch on the radiator. Mine is a Mk 2. looking from the front, it is just below halfway down the radiator on the right hand side..Sorry I am not able to send pic on here.

Thanks Axel
I have located the fuse,it has a plastic cover with a fan picture on it,right behind the small 30 amp at the front?

You say yours was 30 amp,mines there is 50 amp and it looks ok?
Cheers Scotty

"but the engine is normal temp."

How do you know this?

"And the fan wont cut in when it should but it is working."

Again how do you know what the right point is?

1st of i know the the gauge reading is faulty Because it jumps up to red sometimes when the car is not long started,and jumps back down again,and the coolent level is fine and the engine hasent even warmed up.
2nd when i bought the car i was queing in traffic and i could smell she was hot and waited a good wile for the fan to cut in and it dident.
3rd the fan was bypassed and tested and worked.
And i would have thought the right point! would be before you can realy smell it,and when you hear tinkling noises from the engine as it cools down after you switch it off??? not a good sing.

Well you got the right fuse anyway, I replaced my blown fuse with a 40 amp. You can test if the power is going to the fan by pulling of the connector and connect a meter or a bulb to the red wire,The other side to earth. switch ignition on and you should get a reading on the dc scale or the bulb should light. The switch works through the negative side. Best way to test that is to take it off radiator and heat it in a pan of water on the gas. Use the meter again and if the switch is ok it will show a reading at about 86- 88 cent.

Ok i will check that out,if it is the switch? whats it called so i know what to call when buying a new one.
Cheers.
Scotty

I have a brand new switch that I bought off shop for parts. I could return it but they want 25% handling charge. I never took used it cos my trouble was the fuse. Let me know If you want it.£12 delivered with 1st class post

Hi!

As I said in one of my posts, Fiat do appear to use electromagnetic (cross-coil) gauges which work on the basis of a drive coil and an opposing coil, connected in series across the battery with their junction going to the temp. sensor or fuel tank unit as the case may be!

A temp. gauge shooting up to the red 'H' mark at random almost certainly has an intermittent connection, either internally or in the printed-circuit board on the back of the dash panel.

The best way to find out if funds permit is to get a chappie with a live data scanner suitable
for the Bravo engine management system to monitor the temp sensor for sudden changes.

If funds dont run to that I'll have a look in my Vol 4 binder (I've not got any others yet!) to see if I can see exactly where the wiring circuits are relavent to your fault!

Chris Williams

Axel,this may seem like a silly qeustion???
But you do have a 105 JTD dont you??

Cause i cant see any switch half way down the right hand side of the radiater,only a two plug conectors going into a switch at the top left hand side.


Cheers Scotty

Sorry mate mine is a 1.2sx. MK2