Technical Rust - prevention

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Technical Rust - prevention

Gman88667733

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Just got my Ducato. The underneath is pretty good, a fair few patches where the underseal has flaked off are a bit rusty, on all the narrow sharp areas. I'll send some photos later when I get home. Just wondering what the best way to prevent it getting worse is? The MOT last month shows an advisory of 'start of corrosion at rear' or something like that. Since we are converting it to a camper, I want to sort it now so I can forget about it for a few years.
Probably be easier to advise when I add photos later.

It's an 06 van, just before the facelift.

Cheers
 
Just got my Ducato. The underneath is pretty good, a fair few patches where the underseal has flaked off are a bit rusty, on all the narrow sharp areas. I'll send some photos later when I get home. Just wondering what the best way to prevent it getting worse is? The MOT last month shows an advisory of 'start of corrosion at rear' or something like that. Since we are converting it to a camper, I want to sort it now so I can forget about it for a few years.
Probably be easier to advise when I add photos later.

It's an 06 van, just before the facelift.

Cheers
Photos yes please :)

How come it is such low miles?

What has it been used for?
 
Few pictures. IMG_20200623_213250.jpegIMG_20200623_213300.jpegIMG_20200623_213305.jpegIMG_20200623_213310.jpegIMG_20200623_213316.jpeg
 
Looks very good but what about the inside and outside?
I'll send more tomorrow. Mostly focussing on dealing with any rust at the moment!
It's definitely a bit more agricultural than I'm used to! But the engine runs very smoothly
 
Sand/grind anywhere that's looks even a little flakey or shows signs of rust


The clean the area 2 coats of primer then a good top coat such as stonechip or bed liners paint
Does it matter if I wire brush the flaky underseal off? I suppose it won't matter when I repaint it all?
 
Does it matter if I wire brush the flaky underseal off? I suppose it won't matter when I repaint it all?

The opposite that's exactly what you should do anything loose looking should be scraped back and ideally have some sort of powered tool going over it like a Sander or flap disc on an angle grinder get it as close as bare metal as you can to minimise changes of anything coming back through under the paint
 
Hi, they look familiar... Have been on Furlough and spent 3 days underneath our x250 model (2008) treating it. It was a minibus in previous life and the seat runners have nut plates all over underneath... What joy!
Found it all sound enough however the one of the sills at the rear was badly perforated after some not too severe pokes. Guess yours are too. That was on the drivers side, which overall is the worse.
Think the perforation was greatly assisted by a factory hole left in the seam at the sliding door corner relief near that sill.
Used lots of elbow grease, kurust, zinc undercoat, wax oil paint, spray, in various amounts just about everywhere. Dragon man pointed out a better wax worth trying I think on his Scudo.
 
Hi, they look familiar... Have been on Furlough and spent 3 days underneath our x250 model (2008) treating it. It was a minibus in previous life and the seat runners have nut plates all over underneath... What joy!
Found it all sound enough however the one of the sills at the rear was badly perforated after some not too severe pokes. Guess yours are too. That was on the drivers side, which overall is the worse.
Think the perforation was greatly assisted by a factory hole left in the seam at the sliding door corner relief near that sill.
Used lots of elbow grease, kurust, zinc undercoat, wax oil paint, spray, in various amounts just about everywhere. Dragon man pointed out a better wax worth trying I think on his Scudo.
From the surface is doesn't look bad at all, just when you see the cracked bits of underseal you can see some rusty bits. I'll give it a good wire brush/go at with the disc cutter grinding wheel. And then coat it.
The main rust I can see is the tow bar frame at the rear, it is very crusty.
 
Checked the sills this morning, no sign of rust whatsoever, rock solid.

It's mostly just patchy areas of flaky underseal, no big areas.

Will have a proper look underneath when I get home from work, but I don't think it's bad... It did have some welding done 2 years ago at the suspension mounting points either front or back, but I can't see any signs of that welding, so hopefully it was done well.
Did a cold start this morning and thankfully it started and idled perfectly.IMG_20200624_063435.jpegIMG_20200624_063440.jpeg
 
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Anyone that has ever had a land rover will see that as practically brand new!
Jack
 
Anyone that has ever had a land rover will see that as practically brand new!
Jack
Wonderful!! So I can sort that with a good wire brush/wheel and treat it as needed and it should keep it at bay for a few years?
 
Wonderful!! So I can sort that with a good wire brush/wheel and treat it as needed and it should keep it at bay for a few years?
Yes for sure. Effort put in now will save a lot of pain later.
Use a good anti rust primer after scraping the loose , paint/under seal /rust off.
I have had very good results with international anti-rust primer in the past.
Otherwise any zinc phosphate primer (Maybe screwfix) apply by brush better value than spray.
 
Yes for sure. Effort put in now will save a lot of pain later.
Use a good anti rust primer after scraping the loose , paint/under seal /rust off.
I have had very good results with international anti-rust primer in the past.
Otherwise any zinc phosphate primer (Maybe screwfix) apply by brush better value than spray.
I was going to use Kurust straight on the rust after I've scraped as much off as I can and then paint black hammerite over. Would this be okay?
 
I was going to use Kurust straight on the rust after I've scraped as much off as I can and then paint black hammerite over. Would this be okay?
I haven't used kurust but have used hammerite , did not have great success with hammerite. Hammerite is horrible to apply requires special (very expensive) thinners to clean up. Found bog standard Wilkinsons red oxide primer followed by normal gloss better than hammerite.

Only my opinion but the products I first suggested are very good. Kurust first would be a bonus if it works.

Plus grey or white top coat better than black as it will be much easier to spot and so deal with any new rust that forms with a grey or white top coat.
Silver colours always tend to be thinner than any other colour so don't use silver.
 
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To give you some reassurance, I had a 1989 van which I guess had been used for towing (and launching?) jet skis or something similar as all the drain holes were weeping rust:eek:

I waxoyled it and squirted rust preventive fluid in all the holes. I then kept it for five years and it never needed any welding in that time.

The most annoying fallout from the water damage was that all the wheel bearings needed replacing.
 
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