Technical Desperately looking for a manual for a Ducato 8144.67

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Technical Desperately looking for a manual for a Ducato 8144.67

Ducato89

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Hi everyone,

My name is Alex and I'm new to this forum. I joined because I'm the owner of a 1989 Camper: Fiat Ducato Knaus 625. It's a 2,5D and unfortunately it had a leaking head gasket.

I don't have too much experience, but I started a project to replace this head gasket. At this point, I have indeed replaced the gasket, had the head flattenend and have put everything back together.

The company that has done the work on the head, has taken out all the 'valve caps' (the 8 metal hoods that have a shim on the top), but have given me all the 'valve caps' back in random order.

This means I now have to adjust all the valves. Someone explained me how to do that, and I think I understand. What what I now need to now is:
What is the correct distance between the camshaft and the top of the 'shims'?
Also: is there a difference between the exhaust and the inlet (hope I'm using the right terms here).

Therefore a manual would be very welcome.
It's a FIAT Ducato, 2.5D, engine number 8144.67
 

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Hi Alex, Sorry to tell you but manuals for your year Ducato don't exist. However, you might find the info you require on the Talbot forum. All the Best, Ian
 
You may be able to buy a used Peter Russek manual for you engine.

It is a long time since I carried out such work on an engine. I have just done a Google search, but the forum discussion that I found was confused itself.

Individual valves will be lapped into the valve seat by different amounts, and the valve stem spacing from their respective cams will vary. The clearances allow for the expansion of the valve stem, as the engine warms up.

It makes sense that the exhaust valve stem will expand more, since it is heated by the hot exhaust gases, while the inlet valve is cooled by the incoming air. Therefore I would expect the exhaust valve (tappet) clearance to be greater than that for the inlet valve. If you are unable to find more exact values, I suggest 0.2mm inlet, and 0.3mm exhaust.

You will have a set of 8 shims of possible varying thickness. You will need to accurately measure their thickness with a micrometer or digital calipers, and identify in separate marked container sections.

If you have already torqued the cylinder head to the engine, adjust the crankshaft to about 90 degrees from No.1 TDC, so that pistons are midstroke, and will not be damaged by open valves.

Fit the 4 thinest shims to the exhaust tappets, and the thicker shims to the inlet tappets, taking care to note the thickness of the shims fitted to each tappet. Fit the camshaft to the cylinder head, and make provision for turning it.

Check the firing order, probably 1-3-4-2. Rotate camshaft until No.1 exhaust valve is closing, and No.1 inlet valve starts to open. In this position "on the rock", measure and record clearances for No.4 inlet and exhaust valves. Repeat with No.3 cylinder on the rock, measuring for No.2 cylinder, and similarly for the remaining valves.

You will now have a basic set of clearances, and should be able to reallocate the shims to set the correct clearances.

When finally fitting the camshaft, ensure that crankshaft and camshaft are correctly timed.


This all seems very complicated, perhaps someone has a better suggestion.

Many years ago I needed to reduce some shim thicknesses after reseating valves. This was done by lapping on fine "wet and dry paper" over a machined surface (bench drill press base).
 
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