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General thebleedindub

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thebleedindub

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Hi all.

I have a fiat ducato 2.8jtd registered in the year 2000. It started giving me starting problems recently. My mechanic said it was a problem with an isolator switch which I had fitted. He resolved this problem but then he serviced it and it was running very rough. I have had the injectors tested and reconditioned. It will turn over but won't start. Any ideas what might be the cause
 
thebleedindub said:
Hi all.

I have a fiat ducato 2.8jtd registered in the year 2000. It started giving me starting problems recently. My mechanic said it was a problem with an isolator switch which I had fitted. He resolved this problem but then he serviced it and it was running very rough. I have had the injectors tested and reconditioned. It will turn over but won't start. Any ideas what might be the cause
Click to expand...


Hi and welcome :)

What did the 'service' entail ?

Oil and air is pretty safe.. but breaking the fuel side can be problematic.


From your description:

It ran ok pre service

It ran..just ... after service

Now wont run after injector work


Unless cambelt was disturbed..

Its probably related to a disturbed sensor..and its wiring

Or fuel pressure issues


Owners with servicing experience of your build can advise on what is removed for what jobs..

1st.. tell us what was attempted ;)

EDIT:
Did you do a lot of troublefree trips between isolator fix and the service..?
Could be related.. but you didnt detail the 'issues' it had been causing.. :eek:

Charlie
 
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Hi varesecrazy. Thank you for replying. The service was oil fuel air filters changed and engine oil replaced. The problem the isolator was causing was that when key was turned on no lights would appear on dashboard and no ignition. However if jump leads were applied it would start. The isolator had pieces of plastic between the jaws of it and mechanic said that they were preventing good contact being made. Once he removed them it would start. It then drive into workshop and had service done. It then would turn over but not start. It would start if air intake pipe disconnected and brake cleaner sprayed into intake while key being turned but was puffing out white smoke. Then injectors were done and replaced and no start since
 
No trips were done between isolator fix and service. Van was running fine before isolator problem. It was a bit of a hill finder as it a long incline you would find it loosing pulling power and have to change down through the gears. But I just felt it was a gear ratio problem rather than anything else.
 
Hi.

Ok

It SOUNDS like a fuelling issue..

as the problem with a 'dead dashboard'
No longer seem relevant


Ok diagnostics:

Fundamentals for combustion are air and fuel

The brake cleaner aerosol is providing fuel that the vehicle cannot

So.. you need to know WHY its not injecting

Either rail pressure isnt getting high enough for ECU to perform injection
(Check with plug in diagnostics)

Or you have a lost signal.. or corrupted value from a relevant sensor

Again reading values seen at the ECU will save a lot of headscratching..and parts swapping

Do the garage do enough big diesels to :

1. Have the right techniques to do the servicing?
2. Be in posession of the correct diagnostic software?


seems a daft question..
but even oil changes can cause big problems where garages cannot reset parameters in the ECU :eek:

Charlie
 
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Unfortunately for me the van is older that plug in diagnostics it doesn't have a plug in
 
If its jtd it uas a 3 pin behind fuel. Starting with brake cleaner and white smoke points to leaking injector. The tolerances inside the injectors are so tiny a rebuild can easily make them worse.
 
They were reconditioned by a diesel engineering company, where did you say the 3pin is located
 
Hi

I am guessing that the isolator is the type which switches the main battery line.



Some of the ones on sale these days are of dubious quality, and aren't up to the job of reliably passing the current needed by a diesel starter motor.

If you want a "proper job", head to a marine chandler and find one suited to a boat engine. I have had good results from a ROCA 460232 which is rated at 1000 Amps for 5 seconds and 250 Amps continuous.
 
Thank you. It wasn't an expensive one. I will have a look at the item you suggest
 
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