Hi guys ivd recently paid a lot of money for a fiat multijet 180 3.0ltr motorhome, the problem I have is the EML keeps coming on putting the engine into limp mode, on checking found the code was no.1+2 injector fault, removed the coil feed to the injector and they were soaked, I know theres a water issue with these that I'll tackle but whilst it's not raining or wet it's still happening I've taken it to fiat today who couldn't fault it but now I have the airbag light and handbrake light dimmingly lit on the dash !!! Now I suspect an earth fault or something ..any body had this ?

As my vehicle is a 2006 x244, I have no direct experience of your problems.

I have read that corrosion of the engine block earth strap can cause some of the faults that you mention. A relatively simple test is to connect a jump lead between a good earth point, and a clean point on the engine such as a lifting lug.

Garwillis said:

Hi guys ivd recently paid a lot of money for a fiat multijet 180 3.0ltr motorhome, the problem I have is the EML keeps coming on putting the engine into limp mode, on checking found the code was no.1+2 injector fault, removed the coil feed to the injector and they were soaked, I know theres a water issue with these that I'll tackle but whilst it's not raining or wet it's still happening I've taken it to fiat today who couldn't fault it but now I have the airbag light and handbrake light dimmingly lit on the dash !!! Now I suspect an earth fault or something ..any body had this ?

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Dimly lit lights is a common fault with the cluster, there are lots of companies who will repair it if you have a search on google or the forum. So could be no problem with either. Water ingress and damage to loom behind the headlight is common too so could be a real problem if they are properly lit.

Thanks guys I'll have a look at both and certainly give the earth test a go ..very frustrating that's for sure, fiats response to excess water intake fit a half arsed recall plastic lid to the top of the engine which still allows water in !!I'll come back with my findings ..thanks again

There is a lot of discussion about the water ingress on X250 vehicles on various motorhome forums, search for scuttlegate. The windscreen scuttle is in two parts with a seam in the centre which can leak, also water gets between the scuttle and windscreen & runs down behind.
I ran a strip of quality black pvc tape along the windscreen and top edge of the scuttle on mine when we had one, and cleaned & sealed the centre seam. The drains on the scuttle are poor too and block easily causing water to back up & overflow the scuttle.

The tape was still perfect after 2 years when we sold the vehicle.

Thanks for the advice Ive done something similar with a bead of clear silicon between the screen and the scuttle tray and like you said the joint between the two. Really poor design by Fiat..

A post about the issue here

https://www.fiatforum.com/ducato/354030-ducato-water-ingress-hopefully-fixed.html

Also check out posts by "Techno" on Motorhomefun about water ingress.

Mike

Thanks Taff.. great detail in the wrote up..I've sealed the scuttle pan just need to add 2 x drains below each wiper spindle. I've had an auto electrical engineer check all the wiring and harness continuity all ok so now just the intermittent no.2 injector to replace and ill remove the cluster and send the clocks away for repair due to the airbag and handbrake light dimmly lit..see how I go

I have an x250 2008.
Be aware there is a black plastic plug below the wiper spindle on the offside and also one on the nearside.
I found these when drilling to fit a drain at the bottom of the pools of water that collect there.
I fitted a drain in the nearside bit by fitting a sealant nozzle in with araldite and a hose underneath.
Sealed centre joint with black goo.
Sealed windscreen finisher with a P section glued in with goo.
Also fitted an 'extension' to the crap Fiat engine cover to stop water there.

Unfortunately the damage is probably already done by corrosion along the injector valley. So if an injector or a glow plug needs replacing I'm in trouble.

So just an update ..no.2 injector gave up altogether and as a result kept me in limp mode 30mph max, got it to Fiat specialists who firstly snapped the injector bolt in the head and had to have it drilled by a another specialist £90 4" deep into the head.. then the tech broke two sets of pullers trying to get the injector out and after 8 hours succeeded..£1200 later !!! Took it for a good run today as I'd only done 15 miles since bring it back and guess what ..the engine lights come back on..this time its stating no.1 and 3 injector high resistance, and no.1+3 injector fault. So I've decided I'm going to send my clocks away firstly to Cartronix who will sort out the earth fault issue causing the lights on the dash to light up dimmly just incase they are causing part of the problem (£150 + £12.95 delivery and lifetime warranty) then take it for a ride to see if if the injector fault comes back which it probably will..now I've also found the heater only works in position 4 so I'm hoping its linked to the clocks and not the resistor is knackard..

@Garwillis
Was this a private or trade purchase? If it was trade you should go back to the seller.

You have rights even with an older vehicle.

Robert G8RPI.

Hi Garwillis

Your faults are probably unrelated, unfortunately.

Very dim dashboard warnings is a common fault in the dash cluster, but it doesn't affect anything else.

Blower Speed 4 only usually means that the thermal fuse in the resistor pack has gone. This means a new pack, which is hidden in the heater ducting (to cool it). It won't affect anything else. Sometimes caused by choked pollen filter reducing airflow and overheating the resistor pack.


Bad Engine to Body underbonnet earth strap gives sluggish starter motor and sometimes multiple unrelated warnings on dash. Not expensive to replace as a precaution. Hard to test with normal testmeters, less than a thousandth of an ohm if OK.


Your injector fault indications are either genuine or caused by corroded (high resistance) connections, normally caused by damp sitting for a long time, a typical motorhome scenario. Methodical examination and replacement/cleaning is called for. Use Servisol contact cleaner, not WD40 please (it gums things up long-term).

Hope this helps.

Thanks Gents for the info , the vehicle was bought private and although asking the seller multiple times is everything ok with it they always insisted it was..until the 2nd day of owning it when things became evident. The seller has also admitted it through text that they did have a problem prior meaning they are liable to the mis selling of a vehicle in an unfit condition so my solicitor is now on it as the couple I purchased from wernt interested in paying towards the repair, now I'll claim for everything.

Anthony where is the the heater pack located ? Do I need to remove the dash to access or is it underneath ?

Hi
On a RHD vehicle the resistor pack "Air Fan Adjustment Resistor O030" is accessed low down, under and behind the passenger side glovebox (you will need to lie on your back or get a mirror ). Find the plastic circular fan casing which has a baked bean tin sized blob sticking out (the motor). On the fan casing is a rectangular 5 pin connector with 4 wires, these are Grey/Red, Grey/Black, White/Black and Black. Remove the connector, then remove the one bolt and squeeze the two tabs. This will free the resistor pack which can be pulled out. These are widely available and not expensive, should be under £20.
Cheers, Anthony 489

Thanks Anthony, located the resister pack, replacement on-route £5.99 bargain.. Just got the rest of the stuff sorted now..clocks going away to Cartronix in Salisbury full repair with life time warranty £150 plus postage.. much Cheaper than the stealers £600 +VAT

Garwillis said:

much Cheaper than the stealers £600 +VAT

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Also others have ended up with a new cluster from Fiat from the same batch that went on to develop the same problem so win-win

So just a quick update the clocks have come back from Cartronix, delivered to them on the 2nd Jan and back with a courier on the 3rd for next day, clocks are now working perfectly and have a life time guarantee so postage and repair £165 all in..bargain than the £600+vat the stealler wanted. On taking the motorhome to a diesel specialist today with a view to having the 3 remaining injectors replaced the van run like a dream no engine management light and didn't mis a beat.. still contemplating on having the 3 remaining replaced however as I've been told having one injector down strains the others and probably best replace all as it's just a matter of time. I'm also looking into an option of sealling the injectors to prevent this in future and might be a perm fix regardless of any water ingress.. watch this space

Ok so went to the so called diesel specialist ..waste of time pretty much, they snapped off all three remaining injector clamp bolts which I knew would shear and said they couldnt get the seized injectors out and they would have to buy a 20t press/ extraction kit for 3k and would have to wait for the boss to decided.. I start panicking as I'd told them Ibhad a skiing trip coming up in 10 days and made no differance.. anyway found a guy local to me who basically drives around with this 20t pullers in his van and that's all he does for a living, charged £100 per injector if they come out in 1 piece or £50 per break as it would need drilling, basically mine cost £400 that includes £75 call out and for him to travel to the so called specialist 60miles round trip, I then had to send my mate ( another specialist) to drill the bolts out .. these must be done right down through the rocker box and into the head so 4" depth on total .. this cost another £200 and the specialist charged £360 for doing not a great deal..but supply the injectors at £200+vat each..all in all I hot the van back with 1 day to spare drove it from wales to Austria, Germany, Belgium France and back and the engine didn't miss a beat..when I get back I'll have to fit the additional drains into the scuttle pan and seal as it meets the screen so another days work in an attempt to cover up the Fiats poor design from day one which they should've rectified correctly..I'm also looking at a substance called cosmoline it's a wax like rust inhibitor which when warmed to 140 degs turns to liquid, I'm thinking of pouring a thin layer so not to damage the injectors around the trough and base of the injectors so that any water that does get stuck in there wont seize the injectors in the head...?

I've not had any injector problems (touch wood) but as a preventative measure I removed the injector clamp bolts and refitted them with anti-seize compound. I loosen and retorque them as part of my servicing routine and I also treat the wells around the injectors with ACF-50 anti-corrosion spray at the same time.