Heater Blower completely dead on all speed switch positions.

When it stopped we had 43degrees C outside (near Marrakesh) and my wife said she smelt burning (like a motor burning out she said).

Bought a Workshop Manual in .pdf format - actually supplied with Citroen Jumper manual but it was claimed to be the same.

I have checked F31 and F08. Have also swapped relay T08 for another identical looking red relay. Still nothing working. On original T08 Relay, have about 20 ohms between one pair of pins (the ones across one end) so presume this to be the coil. (The other pair of pins - one at other end facing fourth pin that's in the middle) are open circuit. And when I apply 12v the relay clicks.

I removed the blower motor/fan. Whan I applied 12v it runs (very fast).

I removed the connector on the resistor block (after discovering there is a clip on the side the must be pressed in - no mention of this in the Manual!). It does not LOOK to be overheated or burnt out.

I wanted to then remove the resistor pack itself. The workshop manual is not at all helpful - it just says "remove". I have taken out the fixing screw at the end but it still does not want to come out. Should I just pull it harder or is there some clip or something that will release it? (I am afraid of just using too much brute force in case I beak it.)

Does anyone know how to do it please?

And any ideas on what to try next?

Thanks.

Motorhome first registered 2007
Model 250B550 Ducato Light 17/35 2.3 JTD

To remove the resistor pack, undo the screw at one end of the connector block, squeeze the tabs and slide the block away from the end with the screw. It should then just pull out. It's apparently fairly common for the connectors in the block to corrode or burn out.

If you want to PM me your email address I can send you a PDF file with photos showing blower faults and fixes that I saved from another forum. It's too big to attach here I'm afraid.

Barrie,, you just click on his user name top left, menu opens with option to private message ( =PM).

Thanks for that. As it happens I did discover it so then deleted my request.

I have received the file so now have to try to put it into action (just waiting for it to cool down a bit - it's now 32C outside and blazing sun - but then I am in Spain!)

Barrie,

Your reading of 20 Ohms for your relay coil resistance is too low. Please check your meter on another similar relay. A typical relay coil resistance for this type of relay is about 85 Ohms. (I have just conformed this with two meters and three relay coils, one of which was from the heater control of my 2006 x244.

If your relay coil resistance is only 20 Ohms, please do not use it, as it could overheat and cause further problems.

Also please note that according to the eLearn diagram posted on thread started by Peterpan44, on which you have posted, the heater motor should run on speed setting 4, without the resistor pack.

Thanks for your help

I will measure the relay coil resistance again - both on that relay and o =n the apparently identical red relay nearby.

Yes I thought the fan might run at full speed even if the resistor block is faulty.

I am beginning to wonder if maybe a wire has burnt out in a loom somewhere. (I have had several wiring loom faults in the past - it seems to be jinxed.)

More tests will have to be carried out this evening.

Thanks again,

Barrie

OK - further tests .....

Have removed Resistor Pack (thanks to received instructions received from Phil by PM). All perfectly OK. Resistors all OK.

Nothing wrong with the plug that connects to the Resistor Pack. Wiring and connector pins all clean and look good.

When ignition switched on, 12 v DC comes through to one side of the motor/fan plug. The other side of that plug shows continuity to pin 1 of the Resistor Pack plug.

So reinstalled the motor/fan.

Switched on ignition and then connected an earth wire to pin 1 of the Resistor Pack plug. Fan runs OK (at full speed of course).

Reconnected the plug to the Resistor pack.

Switched on ignition. Motor/Fan does not run in any position of the speed selector switch (i.e. back to the original problem).

Conclusion: Since there are four separate wires from the Resistor Pack connector to the Speed Selector Switch, all four would have to have burnt out at the same time for this to happen. This is VERY unlikely.

Therefore the problem almost certainly has to be with the Speed Selector Switch or the connection from that switch to earth.

Do others agree with my conclusion?

NEXT PROBLEM - how do I dismantle the Speed Selector Switch? Does anyone know please?

Thanks

Barrie

AArrgghh- just noticed a typo in the name of this thread - it should of course be Ducat 130 not 230 !!!

Is there any way to correct it I wonder?

Barrie,

I would not worry to much about your typo. Most of us are more interested in the technical problems.

I cannot fault your logic in fault finding. Rather than dismantling the switch, which probably is not made so as to allow dismantling, perhaps it may be possible to carry out further tests.

If access permits, remove the connector from the switch.

Inspect connector for signs of overheating. If no signs of overheating proceed as follows,


With ignition on, dab an earth connection onto pin 5. Fan should run proving connection from resistor pack.

If OK, try shorting pins 1 & 5, to prove the earth connection via the harness, to the switch.

Now fix earth connection or switch as necessary.

(I have not suffered from your problem on my x244, but I did have something similar on a Ford Mondeo many years ago. Vehicle was new to me, and it took some time to realise the burning smell was linked to heater setting 3. Found burnt connector on resistor pack.)

Thanks for your advice.

I don't want to dismantle the switch itself. If I can get the panel out I will simply buy a new switch and replace it.

Unfortunately the workshop manual I bought is absolutely useless when it comes to instructions on how to dismantle the panel to get at the speed control switch.

So I am desperately hoping someone on this Forum can tell me how to do it because unless I can get more specific advice, I fear I am just going to have to take it to the Fiat Workshop in Cartagena.

BarrieAvis said:

Thanks for your advice.

I don't want to dismantle the switch itself. If I can get the panel out I will simply buy a new switch and replace it.

Unfortunately the workshop manual I bought is absolutely useless when it comes to instructions on how to dismantle the panel to get at the speed control switch.

So I am desperately hoping someone on this Forum can tell me how to do it because unless I can get more specific advice, I fear I am just going to have to take it to the Fiat Workshop in Cartagena.

Click to expand...

Barrie, you can download the eLearn manual for the X250 Ducato from the downloads section on this site.

ISTR that the heating control panel removal is a bit of a convoluted job and involves stripping down quite a lot of the dashboard. The procedure in eLearn seems to support that.

I would have attached the relevant page from eLearn here, but as 99% of it consists of links to other pages describing the required strip down procedures it won't be of much use on its own.

I'd recommend you to download the eLearn manual and have a look at it.

jeremy t