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Technical Buying parts

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Technical Buying parts

Prepping for MOT now.
Found that the Drivers side stabiliser link rubber is well passed its sell by date so was removing one very rusty nut, part on order only £3... After the total B~$% of a job changing the NSF and discovering that only the rubber bush was shot, Im only changing the rubber bush at this stage.

Just seen for

£4.54
Citroen Relay Fiat Ducato Peugeot Boxer 1994-2006 Front Anti Roll Bar Link Rod or the stabiliser link

£18.05
FIAT DUCATO STABILISER DROP LINK ANTI-ROLL FRONT LEFT & RIGHT 2006-2016

Amusing really, how much money you can waste on car spares.

Will replace the Nyloc nut aswell.

Started pulling chassis bolts out and greasing them and putting them back.
The front ones 2002 -2006 FRONT LOWER CROSS MEMBER chassis bolts 6*19mm socket heads came out easily??? After reading around on this forum I was expecting them to put the usual "mother of all battles" up...But the almost fell fell out when compared to the rear chassis bolts I did last year when I was doing the now rusty tow bar.

I got totally stuck last year after having to cut one bolt out and was unable to do the same to the other rusty bolt.. Back in the days, I would rock up to the local exhaust place and they would bang a gas axe on it and job done.

So I tried the same this time ..You'd think I was asking to get the plutonium out of my Fusion reactor :eek:

But I kept banging doors until they gave in and sent me to the "GUY" in Bletchley. Well I managed to find this garage in Bletchley, that has specialized in removing such rusty bolts. And he had a very expensive bit of kit that white heats the bolt in a about 2 minutes flat.
After breaking his breaker bar the deed was done...

I usually go though the whole vehicle and make sure that every single bolt does what should, can be a real balls ache. But later on it makes life so much easier. This van will be used a my storage unit in the not distance future. During which time I will remove all the wheels clean and paint them. And I am considering doing the same with the chassis components. Starting with the rusty front lower cross member.
 
ok So I only need to spend £90 ish as opposed to £300.
I've got a spare turbo, so may try this out.
 
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Replaced the Front Anti Roll Bar Link Rod or the stabiliser link bottom bush.

Attacked the 21mm 18mm chassis bolts. they hold the steering and anti roll bar on. Removed them copper greased them and put them back. I do them up and using the small diver and then give them a quarter turn with the breaker bar
Checked them at 80Nm 21mm and 50Nm 18mm. Will look up torques later.

I will do the chassis bolts later as they look rusted in "hard core", so I am soaking them in WD40 for the minute. Found a bit of surface rust on the drivers side inner wing behind the splash guard. It s got various little bits under the wheel aches, that I will look at after the MOT.

Tried a test start and it fired up lovely.
The dash has a spanner maintenance symbols showing and the letters "batt".
But the battery is fully charged for the minute. So will have to work out how to reset these.
 
Pleased as punch...Van Just passed its mot...
Got a warning about Front brakes and disks looking rusty.
plus Both Rear hangers for leaf springs. Not sure where you get them.
I only had Reverse 1/2/3/4 because I have connected gear selection cables up incorrectly. Will have to work out what's going on with that and sort it.
Van drove lovely.. Sounded great...
 
Nice one, rust will soon be gone with driving if they are lipped you can file or grind them.

Was the warning for the rear about rust or the bushings?
 
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Will dig the mot out and type out notice they gave.


I think they mean the chassis metal work that bolts between the spring and the body work. I need to get my shed sorted now and my stuff moved before diesel hits £2 a ltr.... Then I be spending a lot of time on this, I want to replace the front brake pads discs anyway and possibly the rear drum brakes. Then I will do the flex hoses, rip hubs/callipers out and paint them. As they look really bad at the minute. Timing belt and head gasket are something that I want to do just for the experience.( another notch on the bed post ).
 
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corcai said:
Not cheap, unfortunately, they might not be too bad, clean them up with a knotted wheel brush, apply rust converter / sealer, paint
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_osacat=0&_odkw=1306812080&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=%281306812080%2C+1306811080%29&_sacat=0
Click to expand...


For that sort of money "me thinks Wire bush time"...
I might even get them powder coated
Can't believe the prices of the bushes around the rear leaf spring either...You can get poly bushes for less.
 
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MOT certificate warning.
Leaf spring shackle bracket corroded but not seriously weakened
nearside rear [5.3.1(b)(I)]
Leaf spring shackle bracket corroded but not seriously weakened
offside rear [5.3.1(b)(I)]
Brake pads wearing thin front [1.1.3(a)(ii)]
Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened front [1.1.4(a)(ii)]

I only had Reverse 1/2/3/4 because I have connected gear selection cables up incorrectly.
Found C shape/ horse shoe plastic component in the top of my tool box.
So this morning vans getting jacked up and put on axle stands..
Will have to work out what's going on with that and sort it.
Been looking at posts on this subject, but at this point its still rocket science...


Plus I was unable to find my CHRA code for my turbo..
 
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Re: Buying parts(for my ref:)

Re: gearbox selector problems
corcai said:
Is it a 244 model? There is a procedure to adjust it see attached.
Click to expand...
pdf.gif
gearleveradjust.pdf (121.6 KB, 24 views)
 
Chriselectrics said:
Found C shape/ horse shoe plastic component in the top of my tool box.
So this morning vans getting jacked up and put on axle stands..
Will have to work out what's going on with that and sort it.
Been looking at posts on this subject, but at this point its still rocket science...
Click to expand...

This sounds like the bit I found when I tried to improve my gearchange as per the below thread:

https://www.fiatforum.com/ducato/357797-gearbox-pivot-lubrication-adjustment-x250.html

If so it locates on the gearbox selector shaft between the two flanges (with the purpose of preventing metal to metal contact; without it in place gearchange has lots of play)
 
I spent all day yesterday trying to sort this puzzle out and cant figure it out.
Ive been reading the forum and txt so called mechanics lol...
The issue for me is that it looks like its all where it should be with nothing missing. On Tuesday I will be at the local garage asking for their advice.
I really need a picture to work from.
 
New parts turned up Saturday from comline
Oil filter air filter and fuel filter..so on monday I put the air filter in ...
Good place to check parts before ordering comline.uk.com gives you alot of information that really handy, like pictures and dimensions.
Using this oil filter when I flush my engine out with ASDA fully synthetic 5Ltrs @ £14 not bad when you think you can buy 1Ltr for £10...
 
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