g8rpi said:

Hi,
The "proper" MES adaptor 1 connects pin 7 on the adaptor to pins 1,7,9 &12 on the Vehicle. For just the ABS I suggest as Heyup says, move the wire in your lead from pin 1 to pin 7 to start with. Leave off pins 7.9 &12 in case they are picking up interference.


Don't rule out an issue on your vehicle, if possible try the lead and software on anther van.


Robert G8RPI.

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Yep. Time to get the iron hot! I think it will be weds before I get another look at it all. As for fault on vehicle, the horrible thought crossed my mind, but taliking to it is my first step, assuming it is in communicate frame of mind! I still hope that a fault developed by the voltage drop with the old battery- I was trying to start it until the penny dropped that the battery had gone.It was all perfect before, just sat in storage in an insulated dry barn. I did wallop the old battery tho'. 73's!

g8rpi said:

Leave off pins 7.9 &12 in case they are picking up interference.

Click to expand...

yep 9 is head unit if fitted and 12 is auxilliary heater if fitted so could easily cause an issue

Ocwobio said:

I still hope that a fault developed by the voltage drop with the old battery- I was trying to start it until the penny dropped that the battery had gone.

Click to expand...

Danger Will Robinson, cranking with a dead battery can give all sorts of errors but most importantly it can result in bad immobiliser data in the code unit requiring the eeprom to be rewritten.

corcai said:

yep 9 is head unit if fitted and 12 is auxilliary heater if fitted so could easily cause an issue



Danger Will Robinson, cranking with a dead battery can give all sorts of errors but most importantly it can result in bad immobiliser data in the code unit requiring the eeprom to be rewritten.

Click to expand...

i believe it can. Fortunately, it still starts on the button and everything else is spot on. (Apart from reversing light switch, another story as I can't get the air cleaner out as the top cover screw heads have rusted to the point where I can no longer get a screwdriver to bite. Yet another tale in the offing!) just off to resolder the fixed vagcom lead now.

And here is what I find in the unswitched vagcom lead,,,ccomments please? Thanx.

Hi,
Move the red wire from pin 7 to pin 1 (opposite end of row it's on).

Robert G8RPI.

g8rpi said:

Hi,
Move the red wire from pin 7 to pin 1 (opposite end of row it's on).

Robert G8RPI.

Click to expand...

Been an' gone an' done it, guv. Trying it tomorrow or weds. Will post back with results.

Well, just been down to try it all again,, thrown everything at it, can not connect to abs module. only sometimes, not all, to the engine, and thats unreliable. All connections are good in the vehicle looms etc. I have had it with this. I have a mountain of kit and for nothing. looks like it will have to go to fiats.

Is that with the 2.08.30 driver on both the port and converter?
Sounds like theres something bigger going on alright.
Did you have it on hookup / charger or anything when you were running the diagnostic.

Corcai,, not on hookup. Funny thing- I am using it on a laptop, a toshiba satellite 1900, that has a serial port. It does not show up in 'ports' in device manager. I Do get the usb serial one showing up when the kkl lead is plugged in. However there is no way to reduce the fifo buffers on the usb/serial. I am just at home now having a fiddle with things to see if I can get an error report to send to Yani at MES. Meanwhile I am thinking that the asr might be the culprit, as no fault light comes on at ignition switch on and switch on dash is doing nothing; as these systems are all tied in together, it would not surprise me. I can't decipher which fuses and relays are pertinent to the asr. The battery change has not disturbed any connections to wheel sensors, as none are nearby on this vehicle. A horrible thought- if the abs ecu is toast, then i would expect the indications I get, and no connection to MES. But that would not explain the other flaky connection issues I get to the engine module- I have not tried the airbag one as it has not shown trouble, and want to avoid tempting it! Cheers.

Just noticed...laptop does NOT have a serial port!! It is a monitor out port (VGA). DOH!!

Inside my switched kkl lead! Note solder bridge on pins 11 & 12, why? Also very fine wire from pin 9 to central row of solder points, again, why? Is this central row part of the circuit or just a mechanical anchor for the pin board to the main circuit board? I'm now having problems with the licence transfer after deciding to move MES to another computer, but this other one randomly switches itself off, so not convinced I should do it. BUT I deactivated it on original laptop but can't reach transfer server and now it won't re activate on said original laptop!! Bugger!

Ocwobio said:

Inside my switched kkl lead! Note solder bridge on pins 11 & 12, why? Also very fine wire from pin 9 to central row of solder points, again, why? Is this central row part of the circuit or just a mechanical anchor for the pin board to the main circuit board? I'm now having problems with the licence transfer after deciding to move MES to another computer, but this other one randomly switches itself off, so not convinced I should do it. BUT I deactivated it on original laptop but can't reach transfer server and now it won't re activate on said original laptop!! Bugger!

Click to expand...

That solder bridge should be 12-13.

The wire from pin 9 is going via another trace to pin 1, like I said earlier these cables usually join 1,9,12,13 or in your case 1,9,11,12.

If you fancy adding to your diagnostic heap you can get a clone lexia/diagbox or delphi ds150e for about £50

Hi Corcai,, I will shift the solder bridge, but AFAIK pins 11,12 &13 don't do owt in this case, so would it have any effect the way they are? I already have a clone Renault clip in the pile that is just a waste of space,, so not up for more. That said, looking on ebay at Lexia etc, is that not just Pug and Cit? I assume they used the 2.8jtd in their clone vans hence the suggestion? SamI right that the rightangled pins into the plastic block on the main pcb are just fixings to hold the pin board on? As for your question re the drivers on both the port and converter,rre is only opne item I can have the driver, that is the usb/serial that shows in device manager of control panel when lead is lugged into usb. I used the drivers that came with either lead depending on which lead I was trying, the one you refer to is from the FTDI site is it not? This saga is getting like the National Debt- and it might cost half as much again too! Cheers.

corcai said:

Is that with the 2.08.30 driver on both the port and converter?
Sounds like theres something bigger going on alright.
Did you have it on hookup / charger or anything when you were running the diagnostic.

Click to expand...

Hi again,,,my driver from the cd with the switched lead is- FTDI, v1.0.2151.0, 2004. Presumably should work with this and what possibility of incompatability if using later downloaded driver as you suggest? I might have a usb issue as I can't make a mouse work on any of the laptop usb ports, despite it working on every other pc I have. I will try the demo MES on another laptop from out of my heap of same, see where we go before moving licence ( the latest laptop will sometimes switch itself off!). Cheers.

Found out mouse is a dud (£ shop specials eh).

I've said this before:
Your connection problems may be a symptom of the fault on the van, not a problem with your leads or setup. Cracked wheel rather than cracked hammer to reverse the old railway wheel tapper joke. You need to either try your lead on a known good van or get a know good diagnostic set up on your van to be 100% certain. The former is probably easier. The fact you are using cheaper generic leads tends to focus attention on them. Trying your un switched lead with red wire only connected to pin one on another Fiat that supports KL and adaptor 1 (car or van) would prove that it is OK.


Robert G8RPI.

g8rpi said:

I've said this before:
Your connection problems may be a symptom of the fault on the van, not a problem with your leads or setup. Cracked wheel rather than cracked hammer to reverse the old railway wheel tapper joke. You need to either try your lead on a known good van or get a know good diagnostic set up on your van to be 100% certain. The former is probably easier. The fact you are using cheaper generic leads tends to focus attention on them. Trying your un switched lead with red wire only connected to pin one on another Fiat that supports KL and adaptor 1 (car or van) would prove that it is OK.


Robert G8RPI.

Click to expand...

Hi,, I get exactly the same result with the unswitched lead with red wire now on pin 1. It is going to be very hard to find someone willing to let an unkown person and kit loose on their p&j,, I have heard from someone who has a working set up who can maybe come over later this month. I feel the lack of a reliable connection to the engine ecu too is symptomatic in itself, that makes me want to blame the diagnostic kit before the vehicle- some times available, sometimes not. There are no issues on that ecu or evident in the vehicle. I have not tried to access the airbag IIRC, so may try that ecu and see if it will work or not, just out of curiosity, and to try and partially eliminate the kit. I get what you say about wheel/hammer. I work on the railway. Is that right what you said re unswitched lead on p1, will still need adaptor lead 1 too? Without that adaptor, it should connect ok to engine ecu only? I feel a visit to a Fiat dealer creeping up to the horizon.....and from which I understandably retreat, lol! Cheers mate.

I know you didn't get the diagnostic kit from them but I'd try giving the guys at Gendan a call. They're clued up on MES and diagnostics generally. Maybe if you explain that you've borrowed the kit from me (I bought it from them originally) they may be able to help. Sorry can't help until after middle March.
Worth a try!

No worries,, if th gendan lads come on here....lol. I have just bought some adaptor leads for an unswitched vag lead, as a last hurrah, I know you can't make it for a while and thats ok, if you can do it it will be warmly welcomed I can tell you. beers on me! i can wait,,,, if that don't help it will have to be a trip op the potts to fiats. hopefully not tho! Cheers Dave