Technical 2.2 EGR valve

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Technical 2.2 EGR valve

L19 JGB

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I'm having problems with the Engine Management Light and EGR valve on my 2008 2.2 16v 100bhp engined motorhome. The van has not done many miles 9.5k.
I took it for MOT last April, the morning I fired it up the engine management light came on. The garage reset the light saying it was the EGR valve and was due to the van's low mileage. The light stayed off until the April when I took it for MOT again the EML came on as I fired the engine that morning.
The garage switched off the light and said it was the EGR again and I should drive the vehicle a bit harder to try to keep it clean.
I'm now on an extended holiday in the motorhome and the light has come on again! A Breakdown truck was attending a car close to my Motorhome yesterday, I asked the guy to check my 'van, he used the diagnostic port said it was an EGR fault said it was a common problem with the valve sticking and switched off the light. I departed from the caravan site a couple of hours later and before I left the site the EML came on again!

Where is the EGR valve located on the engine?
Can it be cleaned to prevent it sticking?
If not what can be done to prevent it sticking?
What is the cost of a replacement EGR valve?
Thanks for your assistance with this problem
 
I've heard of them being cleaned & lubricated on the 1.2 corsa engine, so yes its possible.
I've no idea of where it is on in your engine bay but you'll be looking for a metal pipe about an inch thick running off the exhaust manifold to a valve(might look like a dome) then a pipe off the side of that to the intake manifold.
Hope this helps ?
Gareth
 
Located on the front of the engine below the inlet manifold. on the right as you look at it.

Mine had gone not so long ago, when I took it apart the contact inside the sender were badly corroded. The cause might be more water getting in, I have found that these models tend to get alot of water in the engine compartment.
 
As Tommy stated above water ingress is a concern, personally I use a thin bead of sealant around edge (it's only clipped together!) and due to location (be gentle with 8mm bolts and thin metal gaskets) your better of replacing the valve.
Never done one on the ground as always used a lift ramp. Worth pricing up at ford garage also, Fiat ones are around the £110 (ish) price range from memory.
 
You might be able to access it from the top, but you may have to take out the radiator, working on the ground.

Try ebay for a good price.
 
Not tried that, from underneath your looking at 45 mins.

One advantage of going to Fiat dealership is asking them to carry out pilot injection learn as this can help idle issues also there have been at least 2 software updates for EGR operation so get them done.
 
EGR valves are a complete pain. Many people blank them off with a solid steel gasket. Yes, they can be cleaned with carb cleaner or petrol to get the carbon deposits off. This doesn't always stop them sticking, though. As soon as I got my 2.0 JTD, I checked that the EGR was working ok, then pulled off the little vacuum pipe that actuates it and blocked the pipe with a small bolt. Hence my EGR is now permanently closed and can't stick open. I'm told it's worth a bit more economy as the engine isn't sucking in exhaust anymore, but that wasn't the real reason why I did it.
 
Well EML went out of it's own accord a couple of days ago! I thought that is the problem resolved.
This morning on start up the 'kin light is back on again:confused:
 
The light is off!!!
I have had the vehicle into a friendly garage, they ave asked an additive to free off the valve and deleted the faults from the memory so all is well............at the moment.
 
Hi,
Like you I do not do large mileages and had an issue with the EGR whilst on hols. I used Redex diesel in the tank and up to now the issue has gone away.

I have also stuck to branded diesel a little dearer than supermarkets but if it reduces the problem I am prepared to pay.
 
Hi,
Like you I do not do large mileages and had an issue with the EGR whilst on hols. I used Redex diesel in the tank and up to now the issue has gone away.

I have also stuck to branded diesel a little dearer than supermarkets but if it reduces the problem I am prepared to pay.
Ditto.
Mines on and off a couple of times a year for the last 3 years.
Additive and let the water out of the fuel filter.
 
....but they have a purpose and do we have a responsibility to the environment?

Its more retarded design/location/orientation is the problem. They never seize up in a lot of vehicles. But manufacturers keep reinventing the wheel with new versions or locating/orientating successful versions in a way that combustion deposits condense/sit in them.
 
Its more retarded design/location/orientation is the problem. They never seize up in a lot of vehicles. But manufacturers keep reinventing the wheel with new versions or locating/orientating successful versions in a way that combustion deposits condense/sit in them.

The design on 2.2 is Ford's so lets blame them;) It's not that bad to get to although I do have the luxury of a ramp if required.

Manufacturers have to evolve to meet ever changing emission legislation however why use Fords crap design when the vacuum operated EGR never gives problems:confused:
 
Well I have removed the EGR valve, it is fairly mucky inside, I will clean it before putting it back.

I would like to test the unit for correct operation. Inside the cable socket, there are five terminals, anyone know which one open and close the valve?
 
Foto
 

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There's not a lot of point bench testing it at 20 degrees C. They operate with very hot gasses straight from the exhaust manifold, so the whole EGR is very hot - hence their tendency to seize. Best thing is to blank them off, as long as you don't get error codes.
 
The vehicle has only done 11k. I have cleaned the valve, but could do with powering the valve open to ensure all is well.
It has been suggested the if I plug the valve into the wiring and fire the vehicle up, I should see the valve open. Then hopefully I can then disconnect the plug and clean the seat on the valve whilst it is in the open position!
 
Ok I have cleaned the valve, to check it's operation I removed the top cover & exposed the gearbox, the underside of the gears was coated in diesel soot, cleaned these and discovered I could wind the valve open. I did this & again cleaned the valve & seat, I then lubricated the gearbox with Lithium grease, then refitted to cover.
I now know the valve operates well mechanically, just hope it works fine electrically. Waiting for two new gaskets before I refit the valve.


Only seem to be able to post one pic at a time! EDIT T14086 - Next time ask & I will do it for you!


Here is the exhaust seat of the valve
 

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