Technical 1.9 Mulitjet 105 Glow Plugs

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Technical 1.9 Mulitjet 105 Glow Plugs

Still the same, soldiered on, but today it nearly didn't start Clutch pedal down no change. The first start sounds like there is some resistance to the engine runing, when it starts all's good, not smoke so not GP's
Don't mind changing the starter motor, just want to make sure there's nothing else causing it
I'm posting this as a new thread too
Thanks for your suggestions, i'll post the cause when cured
 
Still the same, soldiered on, but today it nearly didn't start Clutch pedal down no change. The first start sounds like there is some resistance to the engine runing, when it starts all's good, not smoke so not GP's
Don't mind changing the starter motor, just want to make sure there's nothing else causing it
I'm posting this as a new thread too
Thanks for your suggestions, i'll post the cause when cured

Have you tried the trick with an extra earth cable?
 
Thanks for that

No....just ordered a new set of jump leads, never needed them and couldn't find them to try this, coming tomorrow.

Is it connect the battery earth direct to the engine earth, if so where is that?

I'm gonna try the crank voltage at the battery tomorrow then once l have the leads i'll try that the following day - TBH it has to be the first start of the day, after that it's faultless, which leads me to think it isn't the starter motor.

Cheers
 
Thanks for that...just ordered a new set of jump leads, never needed them and couldn't find them to try this, coming tomorrow.

Is it connect the battery earth direct to the engine earth, if so where is that?

I'm gonna try the crank voltage at the battery tomorrow then once l have the leads i'll try that the following day

Cheers

One cable linking the battery negative and the engine metalwork ;) if there is an improvement.. then the standard earth cable needs replacing :)


My 1.3 is fine cold.. then plays up when warm.. I still suspect the cable.. or starter.. the cable is far simpler to check :)
 
Mine has has periods of good cold starting but not on hot/warm, it was the crankshaft sensor both times, they don't seem to last long even good make

I'll get back on the earth test

Cheers
 
Checked battery voltage at first crank of the day, ful 12.14V before, dropped to 9V as the starter grinds to a halt then after a full second tries to turn again.

I've got the leads so that's tomorrows attempt

Still confused why it's only the first one of the day, after that it's fine
 
Checked battery voltage at first crank of the day, ful 12.14V before, dropped to 9V as the starter grinds to a halt then after a full second tries to turn again.

I've got the leads so that's tomorrows attempt

Still confused why it's only the first one of the day, after that it's fine
Hi,
12.14volts with no load is a flat or defective battery.
9v cranking is a flat or defective battery.
Good luck, Keep us updated.
 
Thanks for that Jackwhoo

I'm surprised that you say the standing voltage shows it as dead, it is a new one, the first thing l changed in this recent episode of poor starting and the symptoms are unchanged.

A good battery should be between 12.4 to 12.6v at rest, it will drop some if any accesories are on (lights, radio, phone or gps chargers, flashers, etc) if you have an automotive voltage/amperage tester available, you can do a load test on the battery (hook it up and load it by 1/2 the cca rating of the battery for 15 seconds) if it drops below 10v, it's time for a new battery. Most autoparts stores can do this test for you, but beware, if they don't know what they are doing, they could test it as needing replacement when it does not. Also, the test must be done fully charged. Also, after testing it will be mostly dead and unable to start your car, requiring a recharge.

I've checked for voltage drop overnight, and there is none

Throughout the day it'll start on the button, and the cranking speed is as expected no mater how long l leave it for
 
I did the jump lead additional earth and it was certainly better, craning speed was still lower than the normal throughout the day starts, and the ambient temp is around average ie no frost!

I'll check all the earthing

Is it worth changing any of the earth cables, they seem binary, they work or not?

Cheers
 
The jump lead test proves there is a problem with the -ve lead/leads.
They can and do partially fail.
Corrosion under the insulation is common causing higher than normal resistance.

This can also cause a low state of charge battery.
 
I changed the fuel filter for a main dealer one, just in case......
Still low cranking speed firdt thing
Once it's started it re starts with no problem, so unsure if it is battery related or another cause

I'm going to run through the usual electrical checks today with my multi meter to see if there is a parasitic drain anywhere
One thing that does concern me is the black box fitted for my young sons first insurance year is direct through the battery, not via the ignition, but the terminals have a wax seal so l can't test that drain alone and it isn't stated anywhere

Looking online, it is a source of many complaints, but the installers say the drain being too low to run the battery flat. In my case, it doesn't need to be flat, down to 9V cranking and it is so slow it won't initiate ignition.

There is a dash cam fitted, but l disabled the parked standby in case that
drained it, l also disconnected it overnight to see if this was contributing, but it was no different.

I did check on the price of an earth cable, £12 would have done straight away, but this little bugger comes with the quick release battery terminal and plate for other connections and is close to £60 from the place l could get one - FIATS. I noticed that when secured to the battery with the quick release lever, l can turn the terminal on the post, could that be an issue, but l can't see how it can be adjusted? At least with the usual bolted terminal clamp you can make sure it's tight

Any suggestions where l might get one at a more reasonable price?

I'll get back with the readings when done

Thanks for all the advice so far
 
There are several styles of quick release clamp.. some are adjustable

Either way.. there is no way it should be slack on the post :eek:

Is it the original battery..?
Some post sizes vary

You can pack it out with any conductive material.. Ive slit copper plumbing tube before ;)

Being conical there is a bit of room for manouvre ;)
 
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Thanks for that, it's a new battery from around six weeks ago, but the same Varsa silver jobbie as l had before, which has held its charge since with no drop, so it wasn't that anyway. I'll try that , it isn't very loose but l can roate it by hand with medium pressure

On the tests today, -
Did some multi meter tests
Current drain is .4
Voltage across battery idling no load is 14.06
Full load is 13.78
Voltage drop on earth lines during cranking was .36 on 2V setting

I then checked all cabin fuses for ignition off volts to earth and there was zero on all

I didn't check any engine bay fuses, is there a check l should do there?

In the last couple of days the tailgate CL was not operating, l took the actuator off and lubed it this pm and the levers etc with silicone spray, reassembled and it's now good
Could that have been stuck midway causing a drain?
The problem has been with me for three months or so

I wondered if the radio could be causing some issues, but can't find the fuse for it
The books says +30 sound system is fuse 39, took that out and radio still working
+15 is sound system and dash lights and electric mirrors, took that out and still working

I wanted to take the fuse out overnight to eliminate that, any suggestions which fuse that is on a 2008 1.9 Multijet car not van?

I'm staying clear of 50 the air bags

Once l have a reply re the black box l plan to isolate the battery earth overnight, reconnect in the morning just to prove if it is a electrical issue, or a mechanical one, having read of similar symptoms on other posts.

It baffles me why it's the first start of the day, after that it cranks at a fair rate, and is the slow cranking the cause of not starting or another symptom.

Could it need a "diesel" service, l've had it from 15,000 miles to now at 90,000 odd and all its had is filters and oil changed regularly - and glow plugs recently

Would FIAT be able to do a test on it's on board computer and let me know what the cause is, if so is there a standard cost?

All advice gratefully received

Best wishes to all
 
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