Technical 2011 1.6 Multijet rough idle.

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Technical 2011 1.6 Multijet rough idle.

Imprest

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Sep 28, 2009
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Birmingham
I’ve spent days looking on the forums for an answer to my issue.
Firstly my egr valve and throttle body were heavily gunked up.
Now cleaned, including the egr pipe and the boost/MAP sensor in the inlet manifold which was also totally crusted over.
Yes the inlet manifold is also crusted but I cannot do anything about this without major work.
What I am left with is rough idle.
I’ve hooked up my obd2 Creader and have no faults.
On live data what I am seeing is a fluctuation in the ‘egr percentage’, between 0% and 40% at idle. At the same time i can see the throttle body butterfly twitching in time with the engine hunting.
The egr pipe to the inlet manifold is also getting warm on idle even from a cold start.
I have no idea where the egr percentage reading is taken from or if this is even the issue
Any ideas folks?
 
Ok now I’m screwed.
Engine light came on, went into limp home mode. Restricted rpm to 2000
Got it home and on the drive it went pop and stopped.
Egr showing on the obd so cleared.
Now will not start.
Turns over but sounds wrong, not attempting to fire at all.
No codes showing.
Please help
 
Ok now I’m screwed.
Engine light came on, went into limp home mode. Restricted rpm to 2000
Got it home and on the drive it went pop and stopped.
Egr showing on the obd so cleared.
Now will not start.
Turns over but sounds wrong, not attempting to fire at all.
No codes showing.
Please help


Cambelt?

Crank angle sensor??

If its not turning nothing will register
 
Update.
Removed checked and refitted egr & throttle body with no obvious issues.
Cam belt present and correct. Fuel to injectors ok.
After much cranking it started but put out some smelly white smoke.
Obd reader still showing egr fluctuating 0-40% at idle.
Disconnected egr loom and smoke has stopped but still rough idle.
The throttle body butterfly opens slightly when the revs drop sucking in more air and raising the revs, closes and then revs start to drop again.
Exhaust fumes still smelly at idle.
Obd shows load_pct at 50 when idling. Rises to 100% with full throttle and 0% on overrun.
Load % of 50 seems high for idle so suspect over fuelling.
Going to do a coolant gas check for any emission leaks into the coolant and fit a new MAP sensor.
Anyone able to check their Load_pct at idle with an obd tester for me to compare?
Any other suggestions?
 
MAP sensor replaced with genuine BOSCH item
EGR cooler cover and gaskets replaced in case of internal leak. Cooler cleaned out at the same time.
I have found that the gasket on the back of the EGR cooler, between the EGR valve and the housing may have been the cause of the coolant in the EGR valve.
It’s the metal plate with the red silicone gasket applied.
I will update once completed but in the mean time I suggest anyone removing the EGR for any reason makes sure the coolant system has no pressure in it as this may cause a temporary or permenant failure of the gasket. The Egr itself actually helps clamp this plate and therefore the gasket in place.
 
Still would like to know if anyone’s egr is showing open and fluctuating at idle.
Mine settles back to 0% open after about 90 seconds and idles better.
 
no fault codes stored on the ECU? if its DPFed it could be blocked if its only been doing short runs or always been ran around on low fuel.
recently fixed a corsa with the mk2 1.3mjet. it was ticking over very rough and would not rev past 2000RPM. it was a blocked DPF... undid the lambda and poured a bottle of oven cleaner in through the hole. then put the lambda back in and ran it for a short time then told it to do a forced regen. works perfect now!
 
Thank you.
I have also found that the oil level was about 1cm above the max which would lead me to think it hasn’t regened the dpf lately. We have never had the regen light come on but have heard the engine revs increase and the fans come on with the stop start disabling itself.
Quick oil and filter change first and I’ll see how it goes. Maybe a quick diagnostic and forced regen would help.
 
the oil level will be higher due to diesel washing into it from doing regens. its good to change the oil when you see this getting above the max. diesel will thin the oil down and degrade it considerably.
i do an oil change every year on my engines. screw the crazy service intervals
 
If the oil level is rising something is going completely wrong, or you are using veg oil as fuel.
Rising oil level points to not perfectly burnt fuel which means that your engine tries to regen but does not succeed in burning the fuel perfectly for a reason i don't have any idea of.
 
Touch wood no more issues since replacing the gasketed plate behind the egr and cleaning the egr valve yet again.
Runs and drives better than it ever has.
I must have the cleanest 2011 egr system on the planet (for now).
Not going to force a regen just yet as this would mean another oil change.
Hope my experience helps someone somewhere.
On a side note I found a great EGR cleaner TUNAP 926. A safe gel with no fumes and simply wash off and dry. Not cheap but Desira parts on eBay are half the price of anywhere else.
Being a gel I hardly used any of the can so will last a very long time.
 
Touch wood no more issues since replacing the gasketed plate behind the egr and cleaning the egr valve yet again.
Runs and drives better than it ever has.
I must have the cleanest 2011 egr system on the planet (for now).
Not going to force a regen just yet as this would mean another oil change.
Hope my experience helps someone somewhere.
On a side note I found a great EGR cleaner TUNAP 926. A safe gel with no fumes and simply wash off and dry. Not cheap but Desira parts on eBay are half the price of anywhere else.
Being a gel I hardly used any of the can so will last a very long time.

Shouldn't need to change the oil after one forced regen?
 
I’ve spent days looking on the forums for an answer to my issue.
Firstly my egr valve and throttle body were heavily gunked up.
Now cleaned, including the egr pipe and the boost/MAP sensor in the inlet manifold which was also totally crusted over.
Yes the inlet manifold is also crusted but I cannot do anything about this without major work.
What I am left with is rough idle.
I’ve hooked up my obd2 Creader and have no faults.
On live data what I am seeing is a fluctuation in the ‘egr percentage’, between 0% and 40% at idle. At the same time i can see the throttle body butterfly twitching in time with the engine hunting.
The egr pipe to the inlet manifold is also getting warm on idle even from a cold start.
I have no idea where the egr percentage reading is taken from or if this is even the issue
Any ideas folks?


Hi there, I've got a 1.6 multijet. Don't suppose you've got any pics from when you took the EGR out to clean up, can't find anything online as to a guide on it
 
Sorry no photos taken.
I managed to find numerous YouTube videos showing it’s removal.
Just one wiring block and 2 bolts to remove. Got it down to about 3 minutes with my eyes closed in the end.
If you find you have moisture in the EGR or the hole it mounts in consider the gasketed plate (about £45 from Vauxhall, cheaper than FIAT). Coolant mixed with exhaust gasses turn it into a thick sticky coating.
I have now sold the car and it was running better than ever.
If you have need of it I have a spare working and cleaned used EGR, EGR cleaning gel and even 2 cans of DPF cleaner which you spray into the DPF through the sensor hole left over for the full monty clean up. I’ll work out a price if anyone’s interested.
 
Hi,

Thanks for sharing the work you have done.

I know where the EGR valve is, very tight location!! I also know where the throttle body is but where is the sensor?

I'd like to spray some EGR cleaner into the system to see if it helps to clean the EGR valve.

I did spray some EGR cleaner into the large air box cleaner hose but I'm unsure if any made it's way to the EGR valve!!:eek:

Any advice appreciated(y)
 
Hello, can you tell me which plate have you changed? The round one?
1659444361145.png
 
Hello, can you tell me which plate have you changed? The round one? View attachment 410333
The author refers to number 23. But it's good to change that one too, number 3. I also changed number 27. They were all damaged from previous cleanings. Loosen the cap from the antifreeze tank before each cleaning.
Egr 1.6.png
 
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