Technical error code: 070420, 023520 not matched anywhere, plz help!

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Technical error code: 070420, 023520 not matched anywhere, plz help!

Barefoot Wanderer

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Jul 11, 2017
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Hi, I have a 1.9JTD 2002 Doblo 129K and I have had a fault code reading which I can't find anywhere on the code list on this site.


The Code/s are:
070420
and
023520

The issue is that the engine cuts out when it feels like it, usually when I've driven it for 5/10 miles but is quite random. If I leave it for a few hours it might start again but sometimes I have to leave it overnight then it's fine for a while again. I've put a fuel filter on this morning and the garage plugged it into their machine (don't know what it's called but it's an expensive one). The chap in the garage says that the codes (above) are Fiat codes which only fiat can deal with (officially) but the codes might be available online so here we are. I've Googled the codes and no luck.

Anyone know what the codes are?

Will fiat tell me what the codes mean?

Help would be appreciated, any feedback etc.

Thanks in Advance,
Andy
 
The Code/s are:
070420
and
023520

The issue is that the engine cuts out when it feels like it, usually when I've driven it for 5/10 miles but is quite random. If I leave it for a few hours it might start again but sometimes I have to leave it overnight then it's fine for a while again. I've put a fuel filter on this morning and the garage plugged it into their machine (don't know what it's called but it's an expensive one). The chap in the garage says that the codes (above) are Fiat codes which only fiat can deal with (officially) but the codes might be available online so here we are. I've Googled the codes and no luck.

Anyone know what the codes are?

Will fiat tell me what the codes mean?

Help would be appreciated, any feedback etc.

Thanks in Advance,
Andy

Not sure about 070420, perhaps P0704, clutch switch??

But 023520 could be P0235, which might account for the cutting out.
If the PCM detects overboost, it'll limit performance and that might cause it to conk out.

Does it cut out under heavy engine load?
Might be worth checking the diaphragm and actuator arm to the turbo's wastegate/variable vanes.

Carbon build up can jam it up inside the turbo, manually working the arm back and forth can free it off.
 
To be clear I'm looking for the meaning of these codes as they are written. I want to avoid guess work where possible and I need to start by understanding these codes - people don't know that's fair enough. These code meanings are guarded by fiat apparently so that you have to take your car to them.

So if that's the end of the road, fine - no body knows what they mean. Time to move on!
 
To be clear I'm looking for the meaning of these codes as they are written. I want to avoid guess work where possible and I need to start by understanding these codes - people don't know that's fair enough. These code meanings are guarded by fiat apparently so that you have to take your car to them.

So if that's the end of the road, fine - no body knows what they mean. Time to move on!

Nobody on here would offer guess work which is why you have been asked which hardware/software was used to read the codes as not all code readers are the same.

Most members on here use MultiEcuScan to read their error codes and clear them.
 
thank you Zeewulf, I live in Bacup, Rossendale Lancashire (not far from Rochdale/Bury) - I rang my guy up today but he's not sure what it was plugged into (great...) He actually took the car to someone else after he'd used a device which was quite small (hand-held) which just plugged into the socket in the fuse box.

I'm going to try another garage which has more equipment and bear the cost, I know someone quite inexpensive but it's about 10mi away. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for feedback by the way, I was feeling a bit grumpy last night:cry: not moaning honestly! (y)
 
To be clear I'm looking for the meaning of these codes as they are written. I want to avoid guess work where possible and I need to start by understanding these codes - people don't know that's fair enough. These code meanings are guarded by fiat apparently so that you have to take your car to them.

So if that's the end of the road, fine - no body knows what they mean. Time to move on!

They are meaningless numbers, not real fault codes, Fiat or otherwise.
That is why you nor anyone else can find any information on them.

What seems likely, as Eklipze3k is suggesting, is that the diagnostic tool used to read the control modules hasn't recognised what is stored on them properly.

It's quite a common thing, not all tools work in the same way or have the same reference data loaded in them so they end up reporting rubbish, particularly if the code relates to a manufacturers specific code (see below) that more than likely just isn't in the tool to start with.

All OBD2 fault codes are in a certain order.
They start with a reference to whichever electronic control unit is reporting trouble, this first digit is one of the following letters.
P = Powertrain
C = Chassis
B = Body
U = User network

The second digit will be either
0 = Generic code
1 = Manufacturer specific (in our case a Fiat code)

The third digit relates to the area of actual fault
1 = Fuel & Air
2 = Fuel & Air - injection
3 = Ignition system & misfire
4 = Emission control
5 = Speed & idle control
6 = Computer Output signals
7, 8 & 9 = Gearbox/Transmission
(there's a few more these days, but they've ran out of numbers so use letters that relate to Hybrid systems)

The fourth & fifth digits are the actual fault description.
They usually refer to open, high or low circuit inputs detected from one or more of the sensors.

So as examples,
generic codes used by all manufacturers will look like:
P0***, C0***, B0*** & U0***

Manufacturer specfic codes:
P1***, C1***, B1*** & U1***
 
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thank you Zeewulf, I live in Bacup, Rossendale Lancashire (not far from Rochdale/Bury) - I rang my guy up today but he's not sure what it was plugged into (great...) He actually took the car to someone else after he'd used a device which was quite small (hand-held) which just plugged into the socket in the fuse box.

I'm going to try another garage which has more equipment and bear the cost, I know someone quite inexpensive but it's about 10mi away. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks for feedback by the way, I was feeling a bit grumpy last night:cry: not moaning honestly! (y)

Barefoot Wanderer

It might work out cheaper to get your own Diagnostic kit rather than keep paying garages/dealers. See the site below for what most of us use on here, just check the vehicle list to make sure your model/engine is covered first:

http://www.multiecuscan.net/

If you have a laptop, get the software and some leads off ebay and do it yourself ;)
 
Thank you Goudrons I think I'm better informed now - I have a mobile diagnosics chap coming up to see me this morning and he's going to spend a couple of hours with it to see if it can be fixed (not holding my breath). He's charging me £70 for 2 hours so not bad, we'll see what comes from that. Hopefully we can determine where the fault lies and replace whatever needs replacing.

Zeewulf, I like the idea of buying my own MES this might be the way to go if I'm keeping the doblo, chances are she'll be on the scrapheap or ebay by the end of the afternoon! :D

I'll keep you posted and let you know what p-code i've got hopefully, might even get it fixed today.
 
The Doblo lives on!!!!!!!!!! No success getting the fault code but I mentioned the member on here (Scott7763725272, many thanks to you fellar!) who had the same problem as me and his was resolved by fixing the air inlet, in fact in his words, " the flap inside the intake alluminum tube that was sticking" so I'm assuming it's something similar (i'm not a mechanic), I mentioned this to the diagnostic guy and it gave him an idea. Below you can see all he's done is detach a pipe and put a screw in then taped it. Spectacularly crude but as soon as he put his finger on the end of the pipe it started perfectly, took it off and it wouldn't start. Not quite sure what he's done where (hence the pics) but anyone who wants to enlighten me then feel free.

But it WORKS!!!!! And the thing is it's running better than before it failed - it used to struggle for revs biting the clutch on a hill (did this for 2 years or so) now it runs flawlessly and pulls like a Saturn 5 Rocket (ok slight exageration)

But it WORKS!!!!!
Dobbie LIVES!!!!!!




 
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" the flap inside the intake alluminum tube that was sticking"

Thats sounds like the air intake flap or swirl flap.

I'm pretty sure it's meant to work when under light engine loads to interfere with the air entering the engine and cause a tubulence in there for better fuel/air mix under these lighter loads.
This increases torque at low engine speeds and helps with emissions.

It's vacuum operated (by that pipe) and differing vacuum levels caused by different engine loads cause it to open and usually a spring makes it close again, though when closed it will allow enough air past to maintain idle.

It's probably the flap or it's actuator (black thing the pipe was removed from) is knackered, though the ability for vacuum pump and pipe to create and hold a vacuum probably needs checking first.

These flaps can cause terminal engine trouble if they break up and get blown into the engine.
BMW had serious trouble with one of their engines in the early 2000's ingesting screws that held the flaps together, BMW did what anyone else would do and ignored the problem publicly (but worked on a fix for a later engine version).
 
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Thats sounds like the air intake flap or swirl flap.

I'm pretty sure it's meant to work when under light engine loads to interfere with the air entering the engine and cause a tubulence in there for better fuel/air mix under these lighter loads.
This increases torque at low engine speeds and helps with emissions.

It's vacuum operated (by that pipe) and differing vacuum levels caused by different engine loads cause it to open and usually a spring makes it close again, though when closed it will allow enough air past to maintain idle.

It's probably the flap or it's actuator (black thing the pipe was removed from) is knackered, though the ability for vacuum pump and pipe to create and hold a vacuum probably needs checking first.

These flaps can cause terminal engine trouble if they break up and get blown into the engine.
BMW had serious trouble with one of their engines in the early 2000's ingesting screws that held the flaps together, BMW did what anyone else would do and ignored the problem publicly (but worked on a fix for a later engine version).

Thanks for the information Goudrons. Would you suggest I get it looked at for a repair? Might the engine just carry on running like this regardless? Pos temporary fix?
 
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