General Brake Imbalance

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General Brake Imbalance

Joined
Jun 6, 2008
Messages
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Location
ireland
Hi to all,

The vehicle: 2003 1.2 petrol Fiat Doblo wav.

It was brought in for its annual NCT test today.

It failed on the rear brakes imbalance, and the tester told the owner of the Doblo,

that the handbrake was a little on the loose side, and could do with tightening up.

I haven't seen the details of the test results yet, but I'll be asked to fix the issue.

My question is, knowing the above faults, does the handbrake play any roll in

brake adjustments. And that the brake adjusters work independently, or in

conjunction with the handbrake. I'm not really sure.

Any advice or opinions would be very much appreciate.

John.
 
Doblo has drum brakes, with brake shoes that apply a friction material to the drum hence braking, the pressure applied by a hydraulic piston which receives the pressure by the foot pedal/servo.


It probably just needs a brakes service where the shoes are looked at and replaced if necessary or it could mean a leak in the hydraulics, either way its a very important check, its the sort of thing that could send the car into a spin under heavy braking or no brakes. The handbrake will be cables that operate the shoes via a lever the mechanism is mostly independent from the hydraulics. If the shoes are replaced then the handbrake would need adjustment anyway so really that's a side issue the crucial thing is the foot brake.
I hope you'll let us know how you got on.
 
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Hi johnhififan,

Thanks for the info, as soon as I get the Doblo over, I'll keep an update of how I get on.

Would you happen to know the best procedure to operate the brake auto adjusters.

Different folks have different strokes.

Some just pump the brake pedal until they're that they have solid brake.

Others, keep the brake pedal to the floor, then operate the handbrake a few times until the

attain the same result.

Is there a proper method..........I'm not sure to be honest.

John.
 
Hi johnhififan,

Thanks for the info, as soon as I get the Doblo over, I'll keep an update of how I get on.

Would you happen to know the best procedure to operate the brake auto adjusters.

Different folks have different strokes.

Some just pump the brake pedal until they're that they have solid brake.

Others, keep the brake pedal to the floor, then operate the handbrake a few times until the

attain the same result.

Is there a proper method..........I'm not sure to be honest.

John.


As said the best thing to do is strip the brakes out , make sure everything is good and free aswell as checking for leaks , ensure there aren't any large wear ledges in the drum aswell then when your happy with them manually adjust the brakes so the drum will go on so you can hear a tiny scuff as you turn it , if the adjusters are working correctly then it should keep itself properly adjusted , if you don't when it was done would be prudent to do a brake fluid change aswell .
 
As said the best thing to do is strip the brakes out , make sure everything is good and free aswell as checking for leaks , ensure there aren't any large wear ledges in the drum aswell then when your happy with them manually adjust the brakes so the drum will go on so you can hear a tiny scuff as you turn it , if the adjusters are working correctly then it should keep itself properly adjusted , if you don't when it was done would be prudent to do a brake fluid change aswell .

Hi K333fer,

Thanks for your post. As soon as I get the car, your methodology is exactly the way

I plan to tackle the procedure, including, the movement of the wheel cylinders,

just to make sure neither is seized. I too, turn the brake adjusters manually before

putting the drum in place. Its the best, and only way really. I have a 1974 beetle,

and turn the adjusters for the same reason. Drums all round, 1 adjuster per shoe,

8 adjusters all together.

Thanks a mill for your post.

John.
 
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UPDATE

Collected the car a 2003 1.2 8v Doblo.

Loosened all the wheels, then up on the lift.

Removed all the wheels, as I plan to replace the existing brake fluid with new dot 4.

With a torch, I located the inspection hole on the face of the brake drum. Looking through

hole I could see the gap between the brake shoe face and the face of the brake drum.

The drivers rear side was more of a gap, than compared with the passengers side. Checked

the wheel cylinders were moving independently of each other, no seizing.

Next, I adjusted the self adjuster so that the brake shoes were as close too the drum,

without serious binding, but with a hint of a scuff sound. Then pressed the brake pedal a few

times, to centralize the shoes, and rechecked the gap again by revolving the wheel.

Then did the same procedure to the passenger side, until I was happy with the gap.

I must mention at this point, a year ago, I replaced the brake shoes, wheel cylinders,

and got the rear drums skimmed, on both sides. So little work was required this time.

Next, checked the handbrake was loose as reported by the tester at NCT.

Removed the inspection cover located between front seats on floor. Once removed I could see

that the13mm bolt holding down the handbrake mechanism had become loose.This aloud

lateral movement of the whole handbrake assembly. Tightened it up, and all loose play now

gone. Next checked the operation of the handbrake cables. Lifted to one notch, and see

if the rear drums were tightening up. They were, and both had the same resistance.

Happy days.

Next, got out the one man brake bleeding kit. Connected it up, raised the bottle pressure

then bled each wheel in turn, starting from the rear working my way to the front.

After putting back on the wheel, stared up the car, pulled the handbrake, put her in first gear,

and see if it would move forward.................................No Way!!!

Out on the road with a clear view of no traffic around, I applied the brake a good few times

and some emergency braking as well. Got back to the house, put my hand on the rear

wheels to see if there was any real heat, but no just warm. Rechecked the level at the reservoir,

and all was well. I'll keep an eye on it over the next day or to, just to make sure all is well.


The next job on Monday is to remove EGR valve on my dads car. Fiat Doblo 2005 1.3 multijet.

First time to tackle this job, I have a spare one here including the solenoid.

Regarding the spare one, I removed the solenoid body from the EGR valve housing, and gave

the EGR housing

a good cleaning until it looked like new. Valve moves open and close with ease.

I notice that the solenoid wire plug connector has 2 pins inside. Can I put a 12volt battery

across the pins to make sure the solenoid itself operates properly, or would I do damage.

Maybe I should put this query on a new thread. If I don't get any replies, that's what I'll do.

Thanks for looking.

John.
 
UPDATE

Collected the car a 2003 1.2 8v Doblo.

Loosened all the wheels, then up on the lift.

Removed all the wheels, as I plan to replace the existing brake fluid with new dot 4.

With a torch, I located the inspection hole on the face of the brake drum. Looking through

hole I could see the gap between the brake shoe face and the face of the brake drum.

The drivers rear side was more of a gap, than compared with the passengers side. Checked

the wheel cylinders were moving independently of each other, no seizing.

Next, I adjusted the self adjuster so that the brake shoes were as close too the drum,

without serious binding, but with a hint of a scuff sound. Then pressed the brake pedal a few

times, to centralize the shoes, and rechecked the gap again by revolving the wheel.

Then did the same procedure to the passenger side, until I was happy with the gap.

I must mention at this point, a year ago, I replaced the brake shoes, wheel cylinders,

and got the rear drums skimmed, on both sides. So little work was required this time.

Next, checked the handbrake was loose as reported by the tester at NCT.

Removed the inspection cover located between front seats on floor. Once removed I could see

that the13mm bolt holding down the handbrake mechanism had become loose.This aloud

lateral movement of the whole handbrake assembly. Tightened it up, and all loose play now

gone. Next checked the operation of the handbrake cables. Lifted to one notch, and see

if the rear drums were tightening up. They were, and both had the same resistance.

Happy days.

Next, got out the one man brake bleeding kit. Connected it up, raised the bottle pressure

then bled each wheel in turn, starting from the rear working my way to the front.

After putting back on the wheel, stared up the car, pulled the handbrake, put her in first gear,

and see if it would move forward.................................No Way!!!

Out on the road with a clear view of no traffic around, I applied the brake a good few times

and some emergency braking as well. Got back to the house, put my hand on the rear

wheels to see if there was any real heat, but no just warm. Rechecked the level at the reservoir,

and all was well. I'll keep an eye on it over the next day or to, just to make sure all is well.


The next job on Monday is to remove EGR valve on my dads car. Fiat Doblo 2005 1.3 multijet.

First time to tackle this job, I have a spare one here including the solenoid.

Regarding the spare one, I removed the solenoid body from the EGR valve housing, and gave

the EGR housing

a good cleaning until it looked like new. Valve moves open and close with ease.

I notice that the solenoid wire plug connector has 2 pins inside. Can I put a 12volt battery

across the pins to make sure the solenoid itself operates properly, or would I do damage.

Maybe I should put this query on a new thread. If I don't get any replies, that's what I'll do.

Thanks for looking.

John.


I wouldn't really recommend putting a direct 12v and ground across the valve to actuate it to be honest as in operation it will operate on a pwm signal .
 
I wouldn't really recommend putting a direct 12v and ground across the valve to actuate it to be honest as in operation it will operate on a pwm signal .

Hi K333fer,

Too Late!!!

I connected the battery across the the pins of the solenoid, and just made quick

on off contact with the lead, and the solenoid jumped into action.

While I'm on the subject, I removed the EGR valve and solenoid unit

from the 2005 Doblo 1.3 JTD. A bit of a tricky operation, you'll need

hands like a pianist to gain access to the EGR.................but we got there.

Turns out that the unit was almost clean, and didn't require much work.

Again, I checked the solenoid with the 12volt battery ( SORRY ABOUT THAT)

and also jumped into action. Good days work. Jobs Oxo.

John.
 
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