General No love for the 2.2 Petrol?

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General No love for the 2.2 Petrol?

JimNu

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Due to circumstances beyond my control I was in desperate need for a car to use for a few months, but that car had to meet certain defined criteria - very cheap and very roomy (my Dad has Parkinsons so it can't be awkward to get in and has to be big enough for a wheelchair and other stuff).

I did the usual searches and a '06 Fiat Croma 2.2 Petrol Dynamic jumped out as being the best of the cheap options, especially after reading the reviews praising the Croma's spacious boot and MPV style high seating.

The bodywork is reasonable for it's age and at 93k miles the engine should have a bit of life left in it, although fingers-crossed that the clutch lasts.

The biggest issue is the state of the interior; all the switch gear looks like it has been jabbed with a nail (a metal one, not a finger one), the chrome is breaking off from the handbrake button and the lid of the centre console box is basically smashed!

So the first question is, does anybody know the best way to remove the lid of the console box? I'd look at replacing it eventually but for the time being I need it off.

I do have other questions but I don't want to blast everybody in my first post.

Cheers,
Jim
 
Due to circumstances beyond my control I was in desperate need for a car to use for a few months, but that car had to meet certain defined criteria - very cheap and very roomy (my Dad has Parkinsons so it can't be awkward to get in and has to be big enough for a wheelchair and other stuff).

I did the usual searches and a '06 Fiat Croma 2.2 Petrol Dynamic jumped out as being the best of the cheap options, especially after reading the reviews praising the Croma's spacious boot and MPV style high seating.

The bodywork is reasonable for it's age and at 93k miles the engine should have a bit of life left in it, although fingers-crossed that the clutch lasts.

The biggest issue is the state of the interior; all the switch gear looks like it has been jabbed with a nail (a metal one, not a finger one), the chrome is breaking off from the handbrake button and the lid of the centre console box is basically smashed!

So the first question is, does anybody know the best way to remove the lid of the console box? I'd look at replacing it eventually but for the time being I need it off.

I do have other questions but I don't want to blast everybody in my first post.

Cheers,
Jim

Hi Jim,
Welcome to Fiat Forum and Croma ownership.

The 2.2 petrol was never as popular as the diesels but that went for most diesel / petrol car options in the early 2000's.
I've never looked at how the cubby lid comes off, I'll have a look at mine tomorrow when it's light outside.

Robert G8RPI.
 
The 2.2 petrol is just a re-badged GM engine and was almost universally slated after the gems Fiat and Alfa had produced in the past.

I believe they have issues with cam chain stretch, but probably at higher mileage than you've done.

If not yet bought - the Vauxhall Signum is pretty much the same concept on a shared platform, lots more of them around, too. For small values of 'lots'!
 
I'm not allowed to post links yet, but if you have a look at my gallery I've put a few images of the state of the interior.

I have managed to get the smashed part of the console lid off so it looks a bit better, but I still want to get the top part of the lid off. I find it awkward to operate the handbrake with the full lid down bu it's better if it's just the coolbox lid that's down.

Little 'funnies' I've found so far:
  • The door handles jut out from the car body, I presume they are supposed to be fairly flush? I think I have read somewhere that there's a spring that gets weak. It doesn't affect anything so I'll leave it for the time being.
  • When I open just the boot using the fob, it acts as though the alarm has been tripped, without any siren, with the hazards flashing and a warning on the dashboard until I reset the alarm.
  • There's a clicking from the passenger side when ever I turn the ignition on, but it soon stops. My Rover 75 used to do something similar and I suspect it's something to do with the environment controls getting their act together.
  • I don't have a radio code, but it works for the time being so I don't think it's a problem.
  • The fuel cap cover is awkward to open, is there a knack to it or do I have to keep one nail long?

My near-future plans are to add a dashcam, but the cigarette lighter is in an awkward place so I'll wire it into the fuse box, and also add an extra cable to charge a phone.

And at some point I'll look at adding a better ICE so I can have bluetooth and be able to make calls.
 
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The 2.2 petrol is just a re-badged GM engine and was almost universally slated after the gems Fiat and Alfa had produced in the past.

I believe they have issues with cam chain stretch, but probably at higher mileage than you've done.

If not yet bought - the Vauxhall Signum is pretty much the same concept on a shared platform, lots more of them around, too. For small values of 'lots'!

Already bought, and I definitely wouldn't have been able to get an equivalent Signum for the money.

Do you know if there are there any particular symptoms to cam stretch in these engines?
 
Little 'funnies' I've found so far:
  • The door handles jut out from the car body, I presume they are supposed to be fairly flush? I think I have read somewhere that there's a spring that gets weak. It doesn't affect anything so I'll leave it for the time being.
  • When I open just the boot using the fob, it acts as though the alarm has been tripped, without any siren, with the hazards flashing and a warning on the dashboard until I reset the alarm.
  • There's a clicking from the passenger side when ever I turn the ignition on, but it soon stops. My Rover 75 used to do something similar and I suspect it's something to do with the environment controls getting their act together.
  • I don't have a radio code, but it works for the time being so I don't think it's a problem.
  • The fuel cap cover is awkward to open, is there a knack to it or do I have to keep one nail long?

Door Handles - I had this. Yes there is a very strong spring that gives the door handle some strong pull back. The spring eventually breaks the out handle plastic housing and then the handle fails to return. Solution is to get the handle of and remove the spring. The handle will now close properly and actually gives a nice "soft pull/lift" action.

Fuel Filler Flap - Common fault. There is normally a push button sprung loaded pop-out / pop-in action toggle mechanism. The spring and/or pawl corrode and fail. I gave up replacing mine. Instead I had a small rubber sucker that I left in the centre console. Worked a treat at opening the flap. On our trips to Italy where many garages still have attendants with big fingers/gloves they would be at the filler cap before you had even opened the drivers door. It was a personal race of the "sucker" vs the attendant. Mind you I'm not who the offical sucker was. Me or my sucker? :D
 
Door Handles - I had this. Yes there is a very strong spring that gives the door handle some strong pull back. The spring eventually breaks the out handle plastic housing and then the handle fails to return. Solution is to get the handle of and remove the spring. The handle will now close properly and actually gives a nice "soft pull/lift" action.
I'm imagine that requires removal of the door cards. I'll live with it unless it becomes a real problem.

Fuel Filler Flap - Common fault. There is normally a push button sprung loaded pop-out / pop-in action toggle mechanism. The spring and/or pawl corrode and fail. I gave up replacing mine. Instead I had a small rubber sucker that I left in the centre console. Worked a treat at opening the flap. On our trips to Italy where many garages still have attendants with big fingers/gloves they would be at the filler cap before you had even opened the drivers door. It was a personal race of the "sucker" vs the attendant. Mind you I'm not who the offical sucker was. Me or my sucker? :D
I figured it was something like that, I'll keep a spudger in the car to save my finger nails.
 
I'm imagine that requires removal of the door cards. I'll live with it unless it becomes a real problem.

Yes the door card has to come off. If you do decide at some point to take the plunge then the door handle is not secure by a nut/screw but uses a fish plate clip that slide into/around the handle assembly.

From my notes:

Broken Driver's Door Handle:

Opening door something 'pinged' and the handle spring resistance
became less and handle would not fully return unless pressed down.

Stripped door down (see eLearn for trim, door handle switches removal etc.).
Unclipped glass and propped window high with top rear window edge
actually outside of the window frame to allow access to back of door handle.
Removed inner frame assembly including disconnection of door jam connection.

Followed eLearn to remove outer door handle.

Fully removed VERY STRONG handle spring which had both worn the handle plastic and broken part of the 'cage' chamber.

NOTE! When refitting handle you will find that the outside handle will be in the up position. You have to release the 'pawl' by manually fully closing
the lock. Then the handle will drop and be lifted down by the inner lock mechanism.

Door handle feel / action actually a lot better. Softer and still returns.
 
Ticking sound will be one of the aircon flaps broken. PITA to get at apparently. Again search of old threads on this forum will give more info.


You should not nee the radio code if it is the originl radio. The code is stored in the body computer and loaded automatically.

Have a look at Multiecuscan www.multiecuscan.com Thish a ELM 327 interface and a laptop you can do just about any diagnostic. Not quite as essential for the petrol compared to the diesels but still pretty much essential if you do your own maintenance.

Rober G8RPI.
 
Have a look at Multiecuscan. Thish a ELM 327 interface and a laptop you can do just about any diagnostic. Not quite as essential for the petrol compared to the diesels but still pretty much essential if you do your own maintenance.

Cheers. I've a bluetooth OBDII device that I used with Torque Pro on a previous vehicle, I've not had a chance to try it on the Croma yet. It looks like the Multiecuscan is more comprehensive though so I'll definitely give it a look.

Another addition to the 'funnies' list; I suspect the siren of the alarm is disconnected. I get an "Alarm not available" message when first switching the car on and if I try and trip the alarm (windows open, try to open doors using interior handles), the indicators flash but no siren. I have read here that the alarm can be temperamental, and it was probably disconnected for a reason, so I'll not worry about it.

Edit: just been going through a few old posts and apparently the Croma should beep when the car is locked/unlocked? Whoever though this was a good idea wants shooting and I'm definitely glad mine doesn't do that.
 
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Are you getting the amber padlock symbol as well as the security symbol? The siren module ha batteries and these seem to die causing issues. often cycling the key off and on before starting the engine can put the warning off.
Multiecuscan can do much more than Torque, pretty much everything the dealer software can. You can try out MES before you pay the registration fee.

Robert G8RPI.
 
Weird thing - my alarm randomly started working today. It beeps when I lock/unlock (which I hate!) and it goes off when the door is opened when the alarm is set. I just hope it's not going to start going off on the Lee off the night.
 
Weird thing - my alarm randomly started working today. It beeps when I lock/unlock (which I hate!) and it goes off when the door is opened when the alarm is set. I just hope it's not going to start going off on the Lee off the night.

And the alarm just went off of its own accord :mad: Looks like I'm going to have to investigate disconnecting it permanently.
 
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