Technical ABS warning light
- Thread starter BrianMcL
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Technical ABS warning light
ABS fault could be anything.
Most common is a faulty/failed wheel rotation sensor, generally due to water ingress/corrosion/poor connection to the wheel sensor/wiring.
You could try checking/cleaning/lubricating all relevant sensors/wiring connectors in the wheel arch areas..
Best bet would be to get the ABS Fault Code read and proceed from there.
I (and others?) will be willing to do this for you but in my case you will need to be near or willing to travel to Southampton.
Most common is a faulty/failed wheel rotation sensor, generally due to water ingress/corrosion/poor connection to the wheel sensor/wiring.
You could try checking/cleaning/lubricating all relevant sensors/wiring connectors in the wheel arch areas..
Best bet would be to get the ABS Fault Code read and proceed from there.
I (and others?) will be willing to do this for you but in my case you will need to be near or willing to travel to Southampton.
There is a little good news here and a little bad news. I've sent you a PM so please don't do/buy anything till we make private contact.
Good news is that MultiECUScan can connect to the Croma ABS system. The bad news is that this function is now only supported in the paid for/Licensed version of the software.
Regarding cable hardware then a simple and cheap VAG/KKL interface will allow connection to the ABS unit, as will the more expensive ELM 327 V1.3+ interface BUT IN BOTH CASES and adaptor cable is required.
Full details can be found here:
http://www.multiecuscan.net/SupportedVehiclesList.aspx
Always best to source hardware from one of the authorised UK distributors as their hardware is known to work with no issues.
http://www.multiecuscan.net/Distributors.aspx
Nick (MultiECUScan Moderator)
Good news is that MultiECUScan can connect to the Croma ABS system. The bad news is that this function is now only supported in the paid for/Licensed version of the software.
Regarding cable hardware then a simple and cheap VAG/KKL interface will allow connection to the ABS unit, as will the more expensive ELM 327 V1.3+ interface BUT IN BOTH CASES and adaptor cable is required.
Full details can be found here:
http://www.multiecuscan.net/SupportedVehiclesList.aspx
Always best to source hardware from one of the authorised UK distributors as their hardware is known to work with no issues.
http://www.multiecuscan.net/Distributors.aspx
Nick (MultiECUScan Moderator)
It may also be a broken wire, especially if it is one of the rears. Another not so uncommon problem. I discovered this after forking out £100 on a new hub (you can't just buy a sensor).
If the fault is intermittent, this may be the most likely cause. Another issue is water ingress in the connector plugs.
If the fault is intermittent, this may be the most likely cause. Another issue is water ingress in the connector plugs.
Sorry, stupid question, I've found a selection of suppliers selling these additional cables.
I'll order them anyway but I think tomorrow's project will be to check / clean each of the sensors which looks easy enough (famous last words....)
If that cures the problem would it clear the fault straightaway or will I need to take it for a drive?
I'll order them anyway but I think tomorrow's project will be to check / clean each of the sensors which looks easy enough (famous last words....)
If that cures the problem would it clear the fault straightaway or will I need to take it for a drive?
I'll start another thread about it but having got an elm327 cable and tried it with various laptops I just keep getting an unable to connect to ECU message.
It's set to 38400 on various valid com ports and passes the connection test and also connects to the engine OK but when I try to connect to the abs it tells me that the ELM327 cannot connect to the ECU.
Does anyone know if there's something obvious that I'm missing? I've tried it with the engine on and off but every time I try to connect to something that needs an elm327 i.e. Where the trusty KKL cable won't do, I get the same message irrespective of whether an adaptor cable is needed or not.
It's set to 38400 on various valid com ports and passes the connection test and also connects to the engine OK but when I try to connect to the abs it tells me that the ELM327 cannot connect to the ECU.
Does anyone know if there's something obvious that I'm missing? I've tried it with the engine on and off but every time I try to connect to something that needs an elm327 i.e. Where the trusty KKL cable won't do, I get the same message irrespective of whether an adaptor cable is needed or not.
Well I've just had it plugged into an Audatex vehicle healthcheck scanner and the mechanic was
a) Amazed at the number of different electronic systems on the car - there's even one to say that the passenger wing mirror demister is disconnected (I always wondered why it never worked) and
b) Unable to find an option to communicate with the ABS system.
If anyone knows which option it's in on that computer I'd be grateful but in the meantime I think it's time for a spot of googling.
a) Amazed at the number of different electronic systems on the car - there's even one to say that the passenger wing mirror demister is disconnected (I always wondered why it never worked) and
b) Unable to find an option to communicate with the ABS system.
If anyone knows which option it's in on that computer I'd be grateful but in the meantime I think it's time for a spot of googling.
Pheew
Glad you finally connected.
You need to remove front left wheel and before disconnecting any connector you need to thoroughly check all the wires for damage, chaffing, hardened/brittle cable outer casings.
If all goes well then it is time to disconnect the wheel sensor connector. Examine closely. If all still look good then I would clean with alcohol and a tooth brush the cable connectors and then lube them with a little WD40 or better still contact/switch clean and lube fluid available from Maplins or Radio Spares or Farnell.
If you have a multimeter then I would check the resistance of the wheel sensor coil and compare this with the other front side. If the are similar then thingsd are looking good. Reconnect everything, reset error code and go for test drive.
Fingers crossed all will be OK.
If it transpires that the front wheel sensor ring has failed then these are not replaceable as they come built into the hub assembly. The hubs however are relatively cheep and you get a new wheels bearing into the bargain.
Glad you finally connected.
You need to remove front left wheel and before disconnecting any connector you need to thoroughly check all the wires for damage, chaffing, hardened/brittle cable outer casings.
If all goes well then it is time to disconnect the wheel sensor connector. Examine closely. If all still look good then I would clean with alcohol and a tooth brush the cable connectors and then lube them with a little WD40 or better still contact/switch clean and lube fluid available from Maplins or Radio Spares or Farnell.
If you have a multimeter then I would check the resistance of the wheel sensor coil and compare this with the other front side. If the are similar then thingsd are looking good. Reconnect everything, reset error code and go for test drive.
Fingers crossed all will be OK.
If it transpires that the front wheel sensor ring has failed then these are not replaceable as they come built into the hub assembly. The hubs however are relatively cheep and you get a new wheels bearing into the bargain.
ABS started working fine not long after the previous forum postings and was OK till about a week ago when the light came back on.
Took advantage of the continuing decent weather and jacked the car up for a look to try and see what the problem might be.
All of the wiring looked fine so I started checking the connectors.
The first one I checked was a white connector that goes into a black plug.
There's only 1 pin still whole and what looks as though it should be another one corroded through flush with the white connector.
Does anyone know what the part code for the replacement cable might be or if there's another way to fix this?
Took advantage of the continuing decent weather and jacked the car up for a look to try and see what the problem might be.
All of the wiring looked fine so I started checking the connectors.
The first one I checked was a white connector that goes into a black plug.
There's only 1 pin still whole and what looks as though it should be another one corroded through flush with the white connector.
Does anyone know what the part code for the replacement cable might be or if there's another way to fix this?
On all the ABS sensors i have worked on there are normally 2 wires to the sensor (i've not touched mineon the croma) So i would assume that this is the problem. Whether you can rejoin connections EG solder and heatshrink ( i have done in past on other cars) or an alternative plug is all i can suggest.
Thanks Grollie.
It looks like a (slightly) complicated way of joining two wires together and I can't think why just cutting the old one out until I can get a new cable from somewhere would be a problem but it's always best to check I think.
I'll have a quick look at the drivers side and see how one that works goes together but I think some soldering and heat shrink might be the way to go in the meantime.
It looks like a (slightly) complicated way of joining two wires together and I can't think why just cutting the old one out until I can get a new cable from somewhere would be a problem but it's always best to check I think.
I'll have a quick look at the drivers side and see how one that works goes together but I think some soldering and heat shrink might be the way to go in the meantime.
Bit the bullet today and cut the old rusted connector off. Crimped connectors to join the cables back together and all seems good.
Looks like once upon a time there was a tape of some kind covering the connector but that had long since disintegrated leaving the connector exposed.
Suggest that you check your connectors and replace the tape if necessary as this might save you a bit of hassle.
Now on to the steering control arm....
Looks like once upon a time there was a tape of some kind covering the connector but that had long since disintegrated leaving the connector exposed.
Suggest that you check your connectors and replace the tape if necessary as this might save you a bit of hassle.
Now on to the steering control arm....
Just thought I'd post a quick "how to" in case anyone else has an ABS warning light problem.
Connect your laptop with MultiECUScan to the diagnostic port with the appropriate connector if necessary.
The diagostics should tell you which one is causing the problem. It might be the sensor ring which means changing the hub as it's integrated, currently examples on ebay for about £45 - £50 if this turns out to be the problem so not the end of the world.
However, before worrying about that check the connectors for corrosion. On mine the connector pins from the cable which comes from the wing were corroded through. If the connectors are corroded through, rather than try and source a replacement cable (main dealer quoted £26 but didn't have and couldn't get one) just cut the corroded connector off, strip and crimp cables and then reconnect. Hopefully the light will go out and the problem solved.
If not, check that you've got the connectors the right way round - try swapping them and see if that fixes it. If that doesn't make any difference check the other connectors in case they're damaged as well.
Good luck.
Connect your laptop with MultiECUScan to the diagnostic port with the appropriate connector if necessary.
The diagostics should tell you which one is causing the problem. It might be the sensor ring which means changing the hub as it's integrated, currently examples on ebay for about £45 - £50 if this turns out to be the problem so not the end of the world.
However, before worrying about that check the connectors for corrosion. On mine the connector pins from the cable which comes from the wing were corroded through. If the connectors are corroded through, rather than try and source a replacement cable (main dealer quoted £26 but didn't have and couldn't get one) just cut the corroded connector off, strip and crimp cables and then reconnect. Hopefully the light will go out and the problem solved.
If not, check that you've got the connectors the right way round - try swapping them and see if that fixes it. If that doesn't make any difference check the other connectors in case they're damaged as well.
Good luck.
