Or you can have this egr which was defo a good one.Remember the egr opening time is controlled by the maf.
Halisons option sounds good as well.Ive been thinking of doing what hes done as my exhaust rear section is corroding.Get a full stainless knocked up and go back to basics on the electrics.Just worried about damaging the auto box.

I tried to completely block the EGR with software but the car gave an error. So only way was to make the software so that the EGR opens as little as possible. I also took the EGR off and cleaned it but so far nothing has helped. I don't think my problem lies in the EGR since it's insides look pretty good and it is so simple device.

Next thing I'll try is to remove the DPF and if that doesn't help I'll also try to block the EGR inlet pipe. Results will follow.

Hi Tappis,
When you block the egr you should get the check engine warning light on the dash and the insufficient reflow error message from diagnostic software. This is very minor, exactly what should happen and easily resolved.

The question at this stage is did blanking the egr fix the original problem?

I am getting the same problem with my 1.9 8V & the dealer says I will have to live with it they don't know what it is, they changed the EGR & say it not that that's faulty.
I think it is the EGR & the ones they are fitting are rubbish.

Exact same problem but without noise. Only got it 3 months ago but engine management light came on so put it into fiat and they decided to change the EGR valve to put out light only started happening straight after I got it back from them (drove fine before even with light on.) Took it back next day with problem they said the one fitted must be faulty but now saying its definitely fine and must be something else. I said well it only happened since you changed the EGR so must be related? but its like talking to a brick wall. Not happy about paying anything for it since they pretty much put a fault on my car just wish I'd cleaned up my old one myself now.

There doing more tests tomorrow to try and get to the bottom of it and I will post and update but they did say its becoming a common problem and Fiat have put out a bulletin about it with 40 odd checks to cover for it.

Collected my car today still with the fault & they say its not the EGR valve they fitted. Again its like talking to a brick wall.
They have left all the paperwork & info in a wallet on my back seat by mistake with all the service news & info from Fiat so I will keep it all.

Removing the DPF seems to have done the job for me. First mile after emptying the DPF I had all the old problems, weird noises and no power. But soon the car started working better and better and now it seems to run very nicely. Also got a new software for the ecu so my Croma has about 190hp. Feels good man.

The DPF doesn't even need to be cut open. At the shop they just took the DPF off and used some violence to break the insides to make them fall off.

Well, some of the stuttering and noises are still there. It just happens much more rarely than before and it has almost no effect on the car behaviour. The problems are so minor I'm not going to do anything about them.

Why don't you stick some Forte turbo cleaner thru. I put some in last week and the car is much smoother and seems to pull even stronger. I don't know if the 1.9 has a variable vane turbo but it's still a good idea to chuck some cleaner through every now and then.

Right got my car back from Fiat on Friday their fix from a bulletin dating back to 2008 was to fit a modified sealing gasket to the EGR valve to restrict the amount of air coming into it. Its basically a blanking plate with three small holes in it that goes between the 2 normal gaskets. Took it for a good run yesterday and seems all fine and a lot smoother.

Parts were only about £20 in total but after some arguing I didn't have to pay for this fix as the new EGR they fitted didn't work correctly until they did this so should be covered by the parts and labour warranty.

After googling the part numbers I actually found a thread on here with a lot of info on this modifications just wasn't finding it before with my search terms but it includes part numbers, pictures and details of how to do it. So would recommend it to any one having this problem as its sorted mine right out.

I can't post links because I have a low score but search for a thread called: EGR valve - remove, clean & modify. Search without the punctuation and you should find it. (page 2 has the most useful info but you may want to read it all.)

Hope this works for other people too.

Just found this .pdf of a bulletin which pretty much sums up the problem and the remedy for it also.

Glad you're getting there with it. The swirl mod gasket's saved us all a lot of grief but I didn't know that it was an officially recommended fix for the EGR problem. I always thought it should have been though.

For anyone else coming across these issues for the first time, the easiest way to diagonse an EGR problem is to blank the thing off completely with some reasonably thick metal cut to the shape of the gasket (trace around the existing gasket with a pencil onto the metal) and the cut around the outside with tin snips. Drill holes for the bolts only (none for the air as you don't want any going into the egr at all at this stage so the middle bit MUST be solid) which hold the egr in place and then fit it. Two things should happen if it's an egr problem - the check engine warning light will come on (always, don't panic this is supposed to happen and the code in software will be insufficient reflow and it will go away eventually (3 full start / stop cycles I think and you can't just leave it in because you won't know if your car develops another "check engine" problem if the light's already on because you've blanked the egr) after you remove the full blanking plate) and the engine should now run much better. If it does then you have an egr problem (you might also have others but one thing at a time) and you should remove your DIY blanking plate and buy the proper swirl mod gasket (the 8v and 16v are different so be careful to order the correct one for your car) and 2 standard gaskets for either side. I got mine off ebay from Poland for about £5 all in delivered. It's a bit of a fiddle but with the correct tools is a home DIY job.

mackenzie91 said:

Just found this .pdf of a bulletin which pretty much sums up the problem and the remedy for it also.

Click to expand...

In the pictures the 16v and 8v plates are different, but the codes in the table are the same. Is there a mistake ? I want to order one for my 16v also and I am confused.

Yeah I think it is a mistake but I think the numbers shown in the table are correct for the 16v as the part numbers on my receipt for my 8v fix are:
Restrictor plate: 71751469
Gasket: 46773082

They are different shapes anyway so if you are to buy and can see a picture just make sure you get the rectangle shaped one and not the oval shape.

mackenzie91 said:

Yeah I think it is a mistake but I think the numbers shown in the table are correct for the 16v as the part numbers on my receipt for my 8v fix are:
Restrictor plate: 71751469
Gasket: 46773082

They are different shapes anyway so if you are to buy and can see a picture just make sure you get the rectangle shaped one and not the oval shape.

Click to expand...

If you order P/N: 55225287 you get a better version of the restrictor plate for much less money. This version has inbuilt neoprene/silicon seals and the crushable shim seal gaskets are not required.

I've posted details on this elsewhere in this Croma forum/section.

s130 said:

If you order P/N: 55225287 you get a better version of the restrictor plate for much less money. This version has inbuilt neoprene/silicon seals and the crushable shim seal gaskets are not required.

I've posted details on this elsewhere in this Croma forum/section.

Click to expand...

Thank you, just ordered one

mackenzie91 said:

Just found this .pdf of a bulletin which pretty much sums up the problem and the remedy for it also.

Click to expand...

My 8V Dynamic was suffering with the same problem and I have spent months trying to solve the problem. This fixed it, it's driveable again - thank you to all contributors. By the way, I have a restrictor plate for the 16V engine (ordered in error) if anyone wants it let me know.

The oval plate with 2 bolt holes is for the exhaust side of the egr valve.

mudrto said:

My 8V Dynamic was suffering with the same problem and I have spent months trying to solve the problem. This fixed it, it's driveable again - thank you to all contributors. By the way, I have a restrictor plate for the 16V engine (ordered in error) if anyone wants it let me know.

Click to expand...

Yes please.

Wish 1fiatfan would've told what he did in the end.

I'm now having exactly the same symptoms. It has gotten worse and worse by time. Restrictor plates didn't help, although I haven't tried one without any holes.

I removed MAP sensor (or as in e-learn, pressure relief sensor?) and it was completely 100% blocked. I tried cleaning it but no help, possibly have to try with a new one.

Any ideas?