Hello,

I got "Check engine" light and got the code P2002. So my DPF was clogged and I put some DPF cleaner to the fuel tank. I drove a few miles and also got "Check diesel fuel filter". I kept driving at high RPM:s and eventually got rid of the P2002 error, but the car still tells about the problem with fuel filter.

The diesel fuel filter was changed a bit before any of these problems so I really think the DPF cleaner did something. Do i need to change the filter again or can I clean the sensor or is it somehow possible to reset the fuel filter warning? I don't get any error codes for the filter. I'm using some cheap ODB reader and the software called "Torque". Can I get more information about this with a correct reader and multiecuscan?

Or should I just try some fuel additive for cleaning the fuel filter after using DPF cleaner

E: Oh, and the car is Croma -07 with 1.9JTD Multijet

Croma has an oil degredation mileage counter and oil change mileage counter.
The degradation counter is vitually unknown in most garages, and very few can read it.
After 20000 miles the ECU decides that the oil is not good enough to stand the increase in temperature, so refuses to regen. So when the DPF clogs it puts you into limp home mode.
When you get the Ecuscan you can check this.

Thanks but I don't have problem with DPF anymore (at the moment). I've driven few hundred miles without DPF error but the "check diesel fuel filter" error does not go anywhere. And I don't think it has correlation with the degradation counter?

Apologies for stating the obvious, but what about checking the fuel filter?

It sounds like the DPF cleaner may have had water in it, which is now trapped in the fuel filter. I'd get a new element for the fuel filter, take it out and empty whatever's in there - not into the fuel tank or down the drain. Keep an empty 1L bottle to tip it into, take it to the tip - it should be OK with the engine oil (I think they just use it as heating fuel).

There is info on here about changing the fuel filter, with a few good tips I used when I last did mine. You will need a tool off ebay for a pound or three to get the lid off - I got one of those plastic handle wrench things with a big rubber band on it, works great.

The problem is that I'm not comfortable about buying a new filter since this was not really my fault and the filter is quite new :| At the shop they said that the first thing that we should try is to buy a new sensor, god only knows how much that would cost.

So I was thinking how does the sensor and warning light work. Does the warning light go off if the sensor doesn't find problems or does it need to be reset?

Anyway thanks for the input, I'll order the filter opening tool so I can take a closer look.

Just a thought - make sure that the connector on top of the filter is solid. If it has been unplugged recently it may not have been pushed fully home . Also check for corrosion on all the pins/ sockets in both halves.

I'd echo everything here and strongly suggest you download multiecuscan. The DPF error is typically caused by not resetting the oil change indicator properly or by an egr failure. Did the engine go into limp home mode when check engine came on?

I sometimes feel like eurocarparts' sales manager but they've got a sale on this weekend so they should be doing a deal on the fuel filter which might save a few pounds.

As always with anything dpf related I'd suggest fitting a swirl mod gasket on the EGR and checking your air filter anyway. If it recurs I'd suggest reading through the many dpf / egr posts on here before adding anything to the fuel.

As an aside, given how the Croma dpf system works does anyone think that adding dpf cleaner would be a good idea?

BrianMcL said:

As an aside, given how the Croma dpf system works does anyone think that adding dpf cleaner would be a good idea?

Click to expand...

I spent a small fortune on DPF cleaners on mine, when I had my problem, but it didn't seem to make any difference. I recently had a chat to someone who worked in a Fiat/Alfa workshop for several years and he said that there is very little that can be be done once the DPF has become blocked. Once it has gone beyond a certain point, taking it for a blast doesn't work either. If you are planning on keeping it for a few years, I suggest that you gut the DPF and get it mapped out the ECU

My local garage suggested bypassing and mapping out the dpf as well, guess it must be becoming more common.

Surely it can't be long until having all of the factory fitted pollution control devices becomes part of the MOT but in the meantime it does seem like an ideal solution to anyone with a serious DPF problem.

Even if it becomes law, the Croma won't qualify because DPF's only had to be fitted from 2009. It's like it's ok to remove Cat's on cars registered before 1992.

So, now I got the DPF error back and I guess it's time to empty the DPF and block EGR. The problem is, I asked for one offer on the ECU remap and the guy said it will cost 790€. Just the software.

I heard that the car doesn't behave very well with DPF emptied without remapping but how about if I remap first and then empty the DPF? I'm thinking about driving a bit further to get the ECU remapped with more reasonable price.

Try quickly eliminating the dpf by running through the dodgy egr checklist - i.e. Try running it with the MAF unpluged to eliminate it and if that doesn't fix the engine power then completely blank the egr and see if that helps. Just because the diag. software / ECU say it's the DPF doesn't mean that it is.

Finally got the multiecuscan and compatible ODB tool. The results are in the next post (5 post limit)

http://s14.postimg.org/s1z1iex8h/dpf.png

To me, it seems that everything is correct? Still it seems that the regeneration processes fail and I have to limp the car hot, reset the warnings and then run at high RPM to get the car to regen.

Would you empty the DPF of your own car with these kind of results?

What's the mileage on the dashboard? 6 oil changes doesn't seem like very many and the dpf system can be very fussy about degraded engine oil.

Also, have you ruled out the MAF by disconnecting it, the EGR by blanking it off completely and checked the dpf connector / pins for corrosion and that it's connected properly?

The car has been driven for 217 000km and the last oil change was 11 000km ago (so 3000 to next oil change). The degradion level seems pretty good with 84%. The oil change counter is far from correct since oil has been changed every 15 000km.

Why does the multiecuscan suggest that the next oil change is after 42 000km?

But yeah I guess I have a lot of things to check. When I have time.. At least it's nice that the car works 1000km before having to reset errors.

I'm wondering if the counter hasn't been reset after every time the oil's been changed.

The degredation indicator is the opposite of what it looks like and is a measure of how much life the oil has left based on what the computer thinks and an estimate how much further you can drive before you have to change it.

Finally had the time to try draining the diesel fuel filter. So I did not even open the filter, I just opened the hole in the bottom and a lot of crap came out. http://youtu.be/d-GXlSPUtQw I guess that the other liquid is diesel and the other is water but what is the harder stuff?

That was a lot to drain off!! Did the "waste" go directly into the container?or did it wash over something on the way down. It may also be that the tank has been run almost dry and some rubbish has been sucked up and trapped by the filter.
Also agree with Brian Mcl the oil reset has a far reaching effect on the running of the car.

It went directly to the container. I guess the filter housing has never been emptied. Wonder if the recently changed filter is still ok. At least the car is running fine.