has anyone had theirs repaired rather than replaced? if so what was the fault?

mines gone want to see if i can fix it

There was a brief guide to overhauling on here fairly recently. Worth a rummage for.

Had my alternator fail end of last week.Thats twice now, 1st time 55k 2nd 109k
not very impressive.Other cars I've had the alternator lasted a lot longer.
Had it repaired, £68(for actual alternator recon),tho wondering if it might have been better to buy different make.I didnt ask what went wrong but its usually diode rectifier,voltage regulator,slip rings and brushes that need replacing.As for diy,many years ago I repaired an alternator,but things arent so simple these days,eg you need access to a spot welder etc.Also if its the 8v 120hp like mine getting the alternator off the vehicle is a job in itself.My indie which I've used for years(and trust) had to disconnect side drive shaft to remove it.But let us know how you get on if you give it a go.

mine is a 1.9 16v a guy on ebay is advertising a lucus one that he reckons fits for £170

its been wet here most of the day so not had a chance to have a go at getting it off, few dry hours i did have i've been helping my son fix his punto because his mrs is due to drop a baby on monday. so they need transport more than me atm.

where did you get your recon done? used to know a man here who done them but him and his shed on the quay side disappeared an no one knows where he went

I replaced mine with a Lucas exchange unit.

Lucas LRA02808

Came with a performance test chart (voltage vs current vs rpm)

I would add that Lucas don't make this alternator from new. It is a fully reconditioned unit sourced from some European major alternator concern, possible Rotating Machines or some such similar name.

s130 said:

I replaced mine with a Lucas exchange unit.

Lucas LRA02808

Came with a performance test chart (voltage vs current vs rpm)

I would add that Lucas don't make this alternator from new. It is a fully reconditioned unit sourced from some European major alternator concern, possible Rotating Machines or some such similar name.

Click to expand...

cool thats the same number as the ebay ad, must be the right one then

they are also listed on ebay as fitting a 159, vectra, signum and stilo, is that right?

looks like i do have to remove a drive shaft same as on 8v, unless anyone knows another way?
its off but still in engine bay, have ran out of light.

Had to remove it from the mounts before i could remover wires as there are loads of pipes in the way, jobs a pain in the arse

Several people have replaced the alterator via an "over the top" method. Not done it myself but it is roughly documented here in the Croma forum. I think BobbyBlue has done it.

A little tip I seem to remember, apart from manoevering the cable loom across the back of the engine, is to attach the alternator wires before remounting the alternator.

Happy hunting for the relevant posts.

did they remove engine mount and pull engine forward?

found the thread. it just says took half the car apart but not what bits website he mentioned for new one alernatormart.co.uk dont seem to exist for me?

found part number though Denso MS1022118270 140A

further on Crazyjo gives more detail, think drive shaft moving maybe easier though


Doofer said he done his from the top only because he had to

When I was posting my reply to you and after doing my own cam belt the thought did cross my mind that removing the cam belt end central engine mount may allow the engine to be pulled forward a little. However I suspect the rear/central mount will probably need uncoupling as well to allow the engine to pivot on the N/S gearbox mount. (or something like that as I can't remember the layout).

Also the exaust rubbers would need dropping off as well to allow the block to move forwards.

drive shaft looks like it comes off in 2 halfs?
if its easy i may just do that and remove wishbone bolts and swing it out the way :idea:

be a lot easier if it stops raining

ive been taking photos so should be able to get a guide up when ive finished.

I've done mine (also a 1.9 16v, with the highest rated/biggest alternator). No need to mess with engine mounts or drive shafts. The only access needed is from underneath, above and the offside front wheel arch hatch.

It's awkward but do-able. You need to remove the engine under tray and open the hatch inside the wheel arch. You also need to remove the plastic tray under the windscreen and completely disconnect/remove the fuel filter housing.

I basically followed the eLearn procedure, but it is a bit over-thorough - I think it tells you to remove the whole wheel arch liner, which is not necessary.

It took a bit of working out to know how to get the new one in - you need to turn it in various directions to get it in from the top past all the obstacles. If I hadn't taken the old one out I wouldn't have believed there was space for it.

my car didn't come with an under tray

I've got a new regulator on the way so i'm going to fit that on a do a guide for it and hope that fixes it

good stuff..!!,

good luck and hope the weather holds for you,
Charlie

its only taken 20 minutes to remove wish bone, drop link, all i have to do is pop drive shaft cup out of intermediate shaft bearing housing. But i cant find short pry bar or fork bashing type ball joint splitter, both do the job easy, long pry bay is to long. ive now spent longer looking for them than doing the rest of the job and the sky has just gone black :bang:

i found fork bashing type ball joint splitter, but that isnt working on this car.
am sure i had croma elearn on a disc but cat find it, so i am using vectra haynes manual, i assume croma drive shaft cup does just pop in and out the same?

Dave

I'm pretty sure that if you remove the hub nut and then the two strut to hub bolts you can twist and pull the hub downwards releasing the stub axle from the hub assembly.

Drive shaft (outer) will then be free to be removed.

it dont need hub end off, just the cup in the middle joint.

click for big picture


thanks

Cant get this cup out, using a haynes manual for a vectra but seems to be a plate here on intermediate shaft bearing housing that a vectra dont have, does it need to be loose